LOCKING FRONT SFA HUBS

[Pung]

Hi guys. I hav a problem with my right side hub . somebody locked it and i didnt know :evil: :evil: . i drove a good couple of kilometers as is. And after a while i struggled to set it to the free mark. What damage does it do. And/or what must i replace or can it be fixed. Please advise.

[doppies]

Hi, nee wat, ek dink nie jy hoef jou te bekommer nie, tensy jy honderde kilometers op een slag gedoen het , kan jy dalk skade op die spider gears kry. Dit is meer skadelik om met altwee hubs gelock op teer te ry. Winding tussen die twee aste vind dan plaas wat kwaai stres op die bearings en crown wheel/ pinion sit. Met net een lock in vind geen winding plaas nie omdat die load automaties deur die spider gears na die as met die minste vrag gestuur word en dit is na die unlock kant. Die spider gears werk maar net 'n bietjie oortyd, dis al. Ek sou my nie bekommer nie.

[Rebel 4x4]

To my knowledge nothing. If you think about it, your hubs lock the wheel to the shaft, selecting 4x4 engages the shaft to the diff. When in 4x2, the front diff does not turn.

It only means that the shaft was turning with the wheel....

Am I right? Other guys?

[doppies]

Ja Thomas, jy' reg, in 2x4 staan die dryf as en die unlock wiel se as stil, maar die lock wiel se as draai teen dieselfde spoed as die agter aste. Omdat die een as (unlock) stilstaan en die lock as vinnig draai, word hierdie verskil in draaimomentum geabsorbeer deur die spider gears en werk hulle nou kwaai oortyd en mag dit op die langduur slytasie tot gevolg he op die spider assies en bucket washers, maar soos gese , oor 'n lang periode aaneen.

[Mud Dog]

I am assuming that one hub was locked while the other was not and that the transfer box was not engaged. This can do damage in my opinion, dependant on how long you have driven like that, perhaps not serious, but undue wear nonetheless. I disagree that there is more damage if both are engaged ... if both are engaged there is little action on the spiders and more on the crown and pinion (as it should be when the diff is operative). When only one side is engaged, the friction on the other shaft and the prop will result in far less turning of either with just the engaged side turning. This will result in the spiders racing around. The intention of the spiders is to absorb the small differentials of travel between the either side wheels due to different arcs in turns, not to spin as they would if you were to lift one wheel off the ground while stationary and run the drive-train as if you were travelling at highway speeds. (at 60km/h on the clock the wheel in the air will be rotating at the same speed as if you were travelling at 120 k/h since the one shaft is taking all the drive that is normally spread over two shafts.)

That all said, I wouldn't worry about it if the distances travelled were small and at lower speeds ..... might even have done some good in churning up the diff oil, re-coating the seals, bearings and gears.



At least one new post has been made to this topic. You may wish to review your post in light of this.
Doppies says more or less the same thing.

[CasKru]

To my knowledge you would not have done any damage. I have driven mine with front hubs locked but in 2H for lots of kilometres and they still work perfect. AFAIK The only time when you might damage them is if you have driven in 4H with both locked.

[Bulletjie-3]

After driving 4x4 on gravel and completely forgot about the front hubs I drove like that for about 80km on tar - luckily no damage.

[doppies]

Don't be confused, gear selection and driving condition apply.
1. 2x4 H range. Only one hub lock. Spider gears work overtime and can result damage over long period
Both hubs locked, no damage results, just normal wear on side shaft seals and bit more feul
consumption.
2. 4x4 H and L range. One hub locked, no traction . More spinning of unlock side shaft and turning of spider gears in
turning circle or off road condition.
With both hubs on gravel locked, good traction and no damge or winding due to wheel slip, but on tar damage to transfer and diff due to winding results over , say 500 km. That is the reason why perm.4x4 have also a diff in the transfer.

[Mud Dog]

Ja, I think we all understand that you can do serious damage very quickly if you drive in 4x4 (hubs and x-fer engaged) on tar or a hard surface if your vehicle has no centre diff.

I think the point here is what happens if you drive with only the hubs engaged. Simple answer, nothing except a little worse fuel economy, BUT if only one side is engaged damage can result over longer distances.

I sometimes engage both hubs over short distances just to churn the diff oil and wet the seals / bearings. I also make a point of regularly checking the state of the hubs just in case some fool decided to 'be funny' and engage a hub.

[The Legend]

Ja, I think we all understand that you can do serious damage very quickly if you drive in 4x4 (hubs and x-fer engaged) on tar or a hard surface if your vehicle has no centre diff.

I think the point here is what happens if you drive with only the hubs engaged. Simple answer, nothing except a little worse fuel economy, BUT if only one side is engaged damage can result over longer distances.

I sometimes engage both hubs over short distances just to churn the diff oil and wet the seals / bearings. I also make a point of regularly checking the state of the hubs just in case some fool decided to 'be funny' and engage a hub.

This is the only reason why i would like to get the same centre cabs for my front rims which is on the rear rims to close that locking hubs

[Mud Dog]

I don't know how many others of you have experienced this, but it's happened to me twice already, so it's one of the first things I do when I get back to my van after parking somewhere in a public place. Just a glance at the hubs and I can see if they're free or locked. They're well marked.

There have been a few mentions of stiff hub-lock dials on the forum recently, and mine are also quite stiff .... a lot stiffer than the ones on the old Lux, but I haven't done anything about it simply because it's probably less likely that a kid can turn them.

[Bulletjie-3]

I experienced it myself but only discover it afterwards. I would like to catch that guy - on mine or any other van - make my day.

[Mud Dog]

While the dial is usually red, the outer ring is black and the "Free" and "Lock" positions have indicator arrows in the moulding which are also black. A touch of red nail varnish on the arrows makes it so much easier to see at a glance.

[Pung]

Thanks guys. But i went to Oudshoorn during the holidays and only then my son noticed the locked hub. :evil: I hav noticed a noise from somewer. I even removed the front propshaft and its still noisy. I think i must jack the vehicle up and drive it in gears to c wer the noise comes from. Wer do i start.

[Bulletjie-3]

Clever idee Andy thanks

[Mud Dog]

Thanks guys. But i went to Oudshoorn during the holidays and only then my son noticed the locked hub. :evil: I have noticed a noise from somewhere. I even removed the front propshaft and its still noisy. I think i must jack the vehicle up and drive it in gears to c where the noise comes from. Where do I start.

The 'noise' may not be related, but jacking up and running in gear is a good start .... just be sure that the vehicle is stable before you start. If you don't already have one, get yourself a mechanic's stethoscope from Midas (not expensive). It will assist you in pin-pointing the origin of the noise. Also bear in mind that hub-locks can develop faults too and it can happen that it's not disengaging. You can check this by jacking the front off the ground and rotate each side front wheel separately with only the opposite side locked. If the opposite wheel rotates (in the opposite direction) or the the prop rotates, then the wheel you're turning is not disengaged.

[Pung]

Aah thats proberbly the best to do. Well today is my hilux day. So i will purchase the item from midas and start my faulty journy. Thanx again i will keep posted.