Diff Move of SFA

Gov · Post by **Gov** » Thu Aug 04, 2011 9:29 am

Hi,

My brother and I want to upgrade from 31" to 33's on our SFA, I know that the diff has to be move to accommodate the tyres.

Apart from the diff move is there any other work that needs to be done?

Lastly, but most important, is there anybody that can do this job in the KZN area?

zepplin · Post by **zepplin** » Thu Aug 04, 2011 10:34 am

You need to shorten the push rod/drag link on the steering & the torque rod on the diff. The front prop shaft needs to be lengthened. All this by the same distance that you move the axle. Usually 35mm.

Gunta · Post by **Gunta** » Thu Aug 04, 2011 11:21 am

I would put an adjustible nut with a left and right thread on the torque arm.

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Thu Aug 04, 2011 4:55 pm

Hey Mark, that's exactly what I've done to my draglink, works well!

Gunta · Post by **Gunta** » Thu Aug 04, 2011 5:22 pm

Post by **Mud Dog** » Thu Aug 04, 2011 6:44 pm

All the above, plus if you don't already have raised suspension, you would also have to do that as well. Some okes opt for a body lift, but I'm adverse to the idea merely for tyres ... if it's done to fit a motor conversion (seldom necessary) that's a different matter. Both mods will raise the COG, but an upgraded suspension will give you more other benefits like better articulation / smoother ride / improved break-over approach and departure angles, while IMO a body lift is a lot more work for far less benefit ..... but that's just me.

Hoppy · Post by **Hoppy** » Thu Aug 04, 2011 7:54 pm

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4131" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Gov · Post by **Gov** » Sun Aug 07, 2011 9:10 pm

Hoppy wrote:viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4131

Have this printed out

I'd rather someone that has done before to do it.

Is there anybody that can do it in KZN or should I bring it to Pretoria?

Mud Dog wrote:All the above, plus if you don't already have raised suspension

The suspension was raised 50mm when the shackle bushes were changed. Will I have to go higher?

Black Sam · Post by **Black Sam** » Sun Aug 07, 2011 9:24 pm

I only did a body and suspension lift, not any of the other things and I went from 31" to 33". do I have a problem

Stef · Post by **Stef** » Thu Oct 13, 2011 10:09 am

I've drilled the holes while doing the saddle correction; there was one on the passenger side 35mm away from the original which I made bigger & drilled one on the driver side 30mm away.

Now for the draglink, torque rod & prop. Was also thinking to have a bigger diameter rod machined with left/right hand threads & locknuts.
Those who have done it, did you cut a piece of the rod out & threaded the remainder to fit into the thicker rod? What I'm getting at, is the existing rod hard enough to cut thread onto or did you use a completely different (hardened) one?

I have a 50mm lift (OME CS009 blades with Pro Comp's), how much must I lenghten the prop? I take it you lenghten the inner part?

Gunta · Post by **Gunta** » Thu Oct 13, 2011 11:12 am

Stef on the torque rod you will have to cut out a piece but do it only after you have done the diff move because it will be even shorter.You can thread the existing shaft, as long as you have a left and right die. I didnt so I cut new ones and did the thread on the lathe. Once it is all done take the vehicle to Sagco's and they will measure it on the vehicle and lengthen it accordingly.

Stef · Post by **Stef** » Thu Oct 13, 2011 1:09 pm

The idea is to take the existing rod (for both the draglink & torque rod) and cut a 30-40mm piece out & then thread. I don't have any dies so I'll have to get an eng shop to do it...but like you say, if it needs to go in a lathe then you have to scratch build. Probably be cheaper..

In the end I want an adjustable torque rod & drag link. Did you shorten your drag link or left as is?

Gunta · Post by **Gunta** » Thu Oct 13, 2011 2:01 pm

I have the adjustable torque rod but after the move and the lift I cut the drag link and made sure the steering box was in the middle. Then I put the drag ling back on to see where they overlap and that was the amount I cut off. Remember to sharpen the two ends so you weld it up from the middle. Weld a bit and then turn it so it doesn't pull skew. I eventually want to do the cross over steering so I did not want to spend more money doing a left and right thread there as well.

Stef · Post by **Stef** » Thu Oct 13, 2011 2:11 pm

More or less what I thought....adjustable drag link is 1st prize, but if not I would just add a sleeve to go over the weld joint for lateral strength

Gunta · Post by **Gunta** » Thu Oct 13, 2011 2:28 pm

You dont need to sleeve it, just weld it properly and besides there is not a lot of tension on it anyway.

Stef · Post by **Stef** » Mon Oct 17, 2011 8:52 am

Moved the axle 35/30 mm

The standard torque rod is 348mm C2C; now needs to be 315 mm C2C (after driving forwards/backwards a few times to let the blades settle).
Brake lines are now too short

Any idea where I can buy/get new ones made up at reasonable price?

Post by **CasKru** » Mon Oct 17, 2011 9:00 am

Stef wrote:Moved the axle 35/30 mm

The standard torque rod is 348mm C2C; now needs to be 315 mm C2C (after driving forwards/backwards a few times to let the blades settle).
Brake lines are now too short

Any idea where I can buy/get new ones made up at reasonable price?

Stuur vir Ronald 'n email... hy verkoop die extended braided pype....
t.a.c@mweb.co.za
nul agt twee 376 53 sewe agt

Gunta · Post by **Gunta** » Mon Oct 17, 2011 9:25 am

Stef, any hydraulic place will be able to make you a set of braided hoses. I used a place in Midrand in the same road as galagher.

Stef · Post by **Stef** » Mon Oct 17, 2011 9:33 am

Tx

will contact Ronald & phone around here as well.

Stef · Post by **Stef** » Thu Oct 20, 2011 10:29 am

Drag link & torque rod done...sommer serviced the draglink while waiting for the paint to dry.

Sifu-Lux · Post by **Sifu-Lux** » Thu Oct 20, 2011 5:10 pm

Here is a link to when I did it with all the details and pics you need. Really not difficult, just takes some time.

viewtopic.php?f=92&t=9011" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I did an axle overhaul and 35mm move at the same time. Good Luck!

Stef · Post by **Stef** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 6:53 pm

Thanks

Diff back in and last brake line extender fitted Tuesday, been driving around town today to let the leafs settle a bit & also took the front prop in to be lengthened. R723 total cost; should get it back Monday.

I've noticed a snapping/ knocking type sound when I turn right and then straighten up again; only sometimes , not every time I turn. Can't figure out if it is the draglink catching on the U-bolt or what. Possibly the spring assembly in the draglink on the pitman arm's side that is a bit stuck....

I removed the J-arm from the swivel hub to move the steering rod out the way for welding in the saddle supports when I had the diff out; don't think it could be that, it's just a pin in a bearing

Stef · Post by **Stef** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 7:36 pm

Now that I've read the entire article I'm convinced the draglink is catching on the u-bolt :problem:

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