Very nice stock!!
I most probably will consider to embed the stock after shooting in the rifle and any advice here would be great.
Set the rifle into the new stock firmly, put about 20 / 30 rounds through it to 'compact' any 'softer' areas of the wood that would have otherwise compacted after bedding, remove the rifle from the stock and clean up the bed area as best you can with some light sanding by hand using a fairly fine grit - about P120, just to roughen it up a bit. This will give the resin a 'key' to bond to, also make sure it's free of oils and grease.
Before bedding, coat the complete bedding area of the rifle with a release agent and let it dry. Just a note, you might want to leave the barrel or part thereof, free-floating Somewhere after the last anchor point or thicker chamber area.
You will need about 50ml polyester resin, hardener, ordinary talcum powder and pigment. Choose a darker pigment than the wood, preferably a brown that's similar or darker in colour to the darkest grain in the stock (lighter colours always show up and stand out). Remember that the white talc will 'dilute' the pigment colour.
Mix pigment into the resin and then add talc until it becomes almost like a soft paste .... the idea of the talc is to give the resin some solid body and to stop it from running all over the place while you work with it ... about a teaspoon measure to 50ml resin should more or less do it. You can still add more pigment if the colour looks 'washed out'.
Once you're happy with the colour and consistency, and you have everything ready including a small paintbrush that can get into all the little nooks and crannies, a cloth with some acetone in case of any messes, you can get started.
Go by the suppliers instructions for adding hardener, but about one drop per 10ml is normally good, mix it in quickly and thoroughly (you have to work fairly fast), paint it into the stock. Immediately bed the rifle in and screw down firmly. Let it set without trying to remove any of the stuff that squeezes out unless it's a lot ... rather trim it off neatly afterwards than smear it all over - you can even cut it off as it starts to solidify. After an hour or so you can take the rifle out again and clean up all the edges where it pushed out. The odd places where there were little air pockets / bubbles I wouldn't even worry too much about unless it's big areas, then you have to do the whole process again for just those areas, but it's normally not necessary. What's more important is the areas around the mounting screws and those that would be absorbing the recoil.
I'm in the market for a new (not so expensive) hunting rifle. By 'new' I do not necessarily mean brand new, I guess I should use the word "another" as I may buy 2nd hand. Questions questions // ?? I want a good all rounder for general hunting (Kudu, Eland, Rooi hartbees, Impala, Blue wildebeest etc). I'm just so uncertain, do I go for the (dependable and accurate) 308, more punchy 3006, or (the open field old stalwart caliber) 270. I know this debate has been around for many years all across the globe but it remains interesting. Should one go for a new Howa which is much cheaper than a good 2nd hand Musgrave, Savage, Remington or Brno etc. Any ideas or just some general info from fellow Hiluxers/hunters would be great. What's the view on the Howa's / I'm told they the 'Toyota's of the rifle world? 
). Besides, I'm not one to take a chance shot, so sometimes we walk all day without even pulling off a single round. Recoil hardly comes into the equation for me.
Eish!! die gogga byt seer 
my hands are now itching for a complete reload kit also.
