Front brakes binding

[Kykdaar]

Well, one of the benefits of the cold weather - this morning I picked up on the fact that the brakes on the right front wheel of the hilux is binding.

Seems a golden opportunity to do a major overhaul of the braking system (I am also losing brake fluid somewhere internally). Having owned a Ford XR3 in my younger years I am pretty well schooled in stripping calipers, changing seals, etc.

Only thing worrying me is that I might not be able to remove the problematic caliper off the disc or, if I manage to do so, remove the piston(s) if stuck.

Any tips from the wise? Anything else to check out while I am at it?

[CasKru]

Well, one of the benefits of the cold weather - this morning I picked up on the fact that the brakes on the right front wheel of the hilux is binding.

Seems a golden opportunity to do a major overhaul of the braking system (I am also losing brake fluid somewhere internally). Having owned a Ford XR3 in my younger years I am pretty well schooled in stripping calipers, changing seals, etc.

Only thing worrying me is that I might not be able to remove the problematic caliper off the disc or, if I manage to do so, remove the piston(s) if stuck.

Any tips from the wise? Anything else to check out while I am at it?

Nothing an air compressor can't solve

Maybe bleed the entire system while at it. Also go for the OEM seal set. The pirates work but....

[Kykdaar]

Yes, I remember the compressor trick to force out the piston. Works very well

Agree with the OEM seal set.

Now I must just upgrade the size of my hammer - got this feeling that I am going to battle to free the caliper from the disk.

Well at least this excercise is something that I can do and then have the peace of mind to know that it has been done properly.

Will keep you updated, maybe with a few photos.

[CasKru]

Yes, I remember the compressor trick to force out the piston. Works very well

Agree with the OEM seal set.

Now I must just upgrade the size of my hammer - got this feeling that I am going to battle to free the caliper from the disk.

Well at least this excercise is something that I can do and then have the peace of mind to know that it has been done properly.

Will keep you updated, maybe with a few photos.

The bigger the problem the bigger the hammer

[Mud Dog]

I've yet to find a caliper that doesn't "open" when pried with a very large screwdriver or small tommy bar ... even when the pistons / cylinders are rusted. Done carefully you can even save the pads if they're still OK.

[CasKru]

I've yet to find a caliper that doesn't "open" when pried with a very large screwdriver or small tommy bar ... even when the pistons / cylinders are rusted. Done carefully you can even save the pads if they're still OK.

Just remember to connect a bleeding kit to the bleeding nipple and loosen it before prying it open. If you pry it open (and the nipple is closed) and your brake fluid reservoir is full it will spill over and can damage your paint work.

[Mud Dog]

I've yet to find a caliper that doesn't "open" when pried with a very large screwdriver or small tommy bar ... even when the pistons / cylinders are rusted. Done carefully you can even save the pads if they're still OK.

Just remember to connect a bleeding kit to the bleeding nipple and loosen it before prying it open. If you pry it open (and the nipple is closed) and your brake fluid reservoir is full it will spill over and can damage your paint work.

Par for the course ... I usually drain the reservoir to almost empty, leaving enough fluid so as not to get air into the master cylinder. I actually wonder if the newer formulation fluids still damage paintwork like they used to long ago. I've had some leak from a spare bottle behind the rear seat without paint damage.

[Kykdaar]

An update -

As soon as I removed the pads, the problem was obvious. The pressmarks of the pistons on the back of the brakepad was clearly demarcated by the paint bubbling away around it - a clear sign of brake fluid leakage past the calipher o-rings and onto the plate. Both sides were similiarly affected.

It also explains the constant but gradual loss of brake fluid I was experiencing. Interesting to note that the leakage was not visible from a casual inspection of the inside of the wheels / calipher and that nothing dripped onto the garage floor.

Far from being seized, the well-lubricated (as a result of the leakage past the seals) pistons was in excellent condition and easy to extract from their bores by hand once the calipers was removed from the hub.

Will get a OME seal kit and replacement dust seals for the front brakes as well as new Ferodo platinum pads.

I am very tempted to also replace the brake discs as a matter of course, but it seems to be a bit more complicated on the SFA than what I am used to on a 2wd and would require the removal of the hub and the re-setting of the front bearings by some sort of scale-spring tool (according to the workshop manual)? Perhaps I should not mess with that now.

Still can't explain the smoke that came from the front wheel which led me to believe that the brakes was binding, unless the very cold weather we have been having have been playing tricks on me.

Last thing - specification is for DOT 3, but you can not get that anymore. I intend to use DOT 4 brake fluid. Is there anything else you guys use?

Cheers

[CasKru]

I also used dot 4 the last time round and so fat so good. My brakes also smoke when I drive a road with lots of stops. Your discs don't get chance to cool enough before the next stop and gradually get hotter and hotter eventually causing the oil and dirt on the components to start smoking.

[Kykdaar]

I also used dot 4 the last time round and so fat so good. My brakes also smoke when I drive a road with lots of stops. Your discs don't get chance to cool enough before the next stop and gradually get hotter and hotter eventually causing the oil and dirt on the components to start smoking.

That can explain it - especially with the traffic the way it is and the fact that some of that brake fluid must have been clinging to the nooks and crannys of the calipher

Just got off the phone from Toyota and Partman. For a replacement brake kit (seals and dustcovers) on both front caliphers - Toyota R854.00 and Part-Man R175.00

Now apart from the feeling that Toyota is a bunch of thieves and that I should always take KY jelly along on any visit to a stealership, the simple question is "Is it really worth while to pay a R679.00 premium for the OME parts in this case?"

[Muz]

I've used the ones from Midas. one piston seemed to stick for a while. still need to bleed them again, but works. OEM ones are a bit pricey!! :evil: :x

[Kykdaar]

I've used the ones from Midas. one piston seemed to stick for a while. still need to bleed them again, but works. OEM ones are a bit pricey!! :evil: :x

Try Gemini - see my last post here - viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12589


(Link fixed - F_D)