Hi-Lift Jack as a winch?

[richard]

If anyone has used a hi-lift jack and chain (or whatever) as a winch, could you please explain to me how you would do this?

i am thinking of getting a hi-lift jack and want to get the most out of it...safely!

[BenHur]

I have seen an article on it once and from what I remembered it hardly looked as if it was worth he trouble

[richard]

Thanks Bennie, i thought as much. I've read a few article on where the vehicle is lifted (if stuc in mud/sand) and the pushed over onto firmer ground.
i dont know what sort of dangers are involved but as you have mentioned in other posts that all recovery equipment needs to be handled with common sense...which i think i have a bit of. My dad used to "knock" a bit of common sense into me when i was younger and stupider!

[Niel]

"knock" a bit of common sense into me when i was younger and stupider

who is doing it now

[BenHur]

Yes a HiLift is one of the best self recovery tools to have but the schlep of dismantling it and using it as a winch (which is a very slow and labour intensive exercise IIRC) is just way too much effort

[richard]

i've had a bit of freedom for a few years now, but things are changing from 1st Nov and Chalene will tabe taking up the challenge of keeping my common sense in check!
But i think she get s a kick out of seeing my face bright red and a few choice words being thrown around!

[cprinsloo]

From: http://www.landyonline.co.za/techtalk/winches.htm

Mechanical - Rack & Block - Hand powered

The mechanical rack and chain is just a fancy word for a humble old high lift jack.

Principal of Operation
This procedure only works with a chain, no rope or strapping must be used.
The chain is attached to the stricken vehicle and to the jaw on the high lift jack shuttle - leave about half a meter free at this end.
The high lift jack rack is chained to a rigid anchor point.
When the handle is operated, the stricken vehicle will be moved towards the anchor point.
When the full length of the rack is used up, take the half meter of loose chain you left loose and bolt it to the anchor chain, then remove the connection on the jaw (The link to the anchor point will keep the vehicle stationary) and move the jaw back down the rack. Now refit the chain to the shuttle jaw and repeat the operation.


Pros and Cons
Very slow, tedious and exhausting.
This is a lot of hard work but as long as you are alive and vaguely fit, you can retrieve your vehicle from anywhere in any conditions without the use of engine, battery or other means

[Knersus]

The only negative point of a Hi lift jack in my eyes is the fact that it is so heavy and very uncomfordable to store on the vehicle. I surely do believe the possitive side of the jack will make up for it if you have to use it.

[Zantus]

Here's an article Morne Stevens did a few years ago about using a hi-lift jack as winch:
http://www.nissan4x4.co.za/GH_ShowArticle.asp?HID=27

[richard]

Thanks to all you guys. The info is invaluable. Once i get the jack and accessories theres no stopping me...well temporarily only

[ThysdJ]

Here's an article Morne Stevens did a few years ago about using a hi-lift jack as winch:
http://www.nissan4x4.co.za/GH_ShowArticle.asp?HID=27

This is a brilliant article. A high lift jack is a very versatile tool and I am sure going to equip mine with the chains and hooks to enable me to use it as a rudimentary winch in case of emergency.

[johnwalker]

Hi
I once had the experience of being in a situation where we winched an Isuzu 4x4 bakkie out of a river using a high lift jack (and no, I was not the one who drove it into the river!). We ended up stuck with water well over the tyres--it was a petrol vehicle so I think the engine cut out due to moisture. I thought we were screwed, but the driver was an old hand so made a plan. There weren't any big trees close by to use as anchors, so we dug a big hole in the river bank and buried the spare wheel-we attached a chain to the wheel before burying--and used it as the anchor. We then used the hi-lift to winch the bakkie out. It was slow and hard work, but it worked. Cool experience. I think a hi-lift is essential for off-the-beaten-track trips.
Cheers
John

[Family_Dog]

Very informative, John!

Did you bury the spare wheel at an upright angle (vertically) to the Isuzu? I'm guessing if it was buried horizontally, it would just pull out under the strain of anchoring the hi-lift jack?


-F_D

[johnwalker]

Hi
It was more or less buried horizontally. It was a long time ago so my memory isn't that clear, but it was definitely not vertical. I think it would depend on the slope of the river bank and the angle of the tow chain is relative to the tyre.
Cheers
John

[LouisZ]

It works, hard work can get you out of anything.Just make sure you use good recovery points on the chassis.

[ecotech]

as you will notice on the side of my hande made old hoender hok for a roof rack is a highlift jack. it has saved me a couple of times. a double blow out on a obsticale course, recovering a jeep wrangler thats back wheel passed itself, getting a sani`s nose n the air for a front wheel that went a different way the the sani and then karee krans and my buddy`s kzte.

we got stuck solid and thanx to 2 highlift jacks the lux was pulled to solid ground forward and sideways. ok, i must say the lux had to work with us and damn its hard work and you got to be quick on the draw. i say. a highlift, a good rope, a shovel and manpower c an get you out of enough to keep going

[Dadz Toy BFI]

Just a note Richard:

"Hi-Lift" is a Trade name, the correct term for this jack is a Farm Jack

Rather buy a Genuine "Hi-lift" Jack not one of the generics; some may tell you that any old Fram Jack is just as good cos the Imported American Hi-Lift Jacks are expensive but it's wise not to scrimp on the quality, particularly as there's so many moving parts to a Jack of this type. :roll:

a 48" Cast Hi-Lift Jack (Code: HL485) is usually sufficient for any recovery, though you can buy longer and shorter ones. :Geek:

And READ the safety Instructions before Operating one; when you swivel the action to go into lowering mode the handle can turn into a life threatening bludgeon if you haven't got a good grip on it; plenty people can unfortunately testify to that. :roll:

Rich

[BenHur]

Well I have been using my farm jack for over 3 years now and has not let me down yet. It even lifts my heavy Pajero with ease.

[Zantus]

I prefer my 60" jack and a few times it was that extra 12" that got me out.

http://www.zantusdesign.co.za/gallery2/ ... alNumber=2

[Dadz Toy BFI]

Well I have been using my farm jack for over 3 years now and has not let me down yet. It even lifts my heavy Pajero with ease.

Where did you get your from please Bennie and what sort of price differential was there

I see one of the Largest 4x4 Equipment Supplier sells the Hi-Lift and a Generic too

The Generic is moderately cheaper and given the usual high quality of the retailer's products. I'd hope that it would be a value for money buy

The Generic Farm Jack in question is Yellow in Colour :Geek:

I've seen substantially cheaper products being used in the field but each had evidence of dangerous wear to the "ladder" and "climbing action"

I found it a good idea to apply a 300mmx230mmx50mm wooden foot (offcut of a roof bearer) to my Jack, they can be very unstable without one and I just couldn't justify paying $$ for a Manufacturer's foot :Geek:

Peekcha attached :roll:

[BenHur]

Mine is a red one from Adendorf. They were R 300 something at the time but I think the prices went up. The yellow ones is a TMAX IIRC and I thing Megaworld sell them.

Never needed a foot foe extra stability support but uses a large stone once when the jack just dropped down into soft turf clay instead of jacking the vehicle. That was the pic in my signature when Limey was bogged down in the black clay.

On the Luxes I also prefer to use it "bare" as hi lift jack points limit you to use it only at the lift points. If you just jack and align it carefully (use some common sense) it will not damage your vehicle. On the Pajero I only use it will the "Wheel Mate" (or at least that is what I think they call it) attachment as the Tupperware does not make great jack points. mine is actually a yellow one I bought from Louis.

The pin in the farm jack can not be replaced like on the "real" one but its pins is thicker so it should not shear as easily. Only maintenance to mine so far was Q20 once when it stated to squeak.

[Dadz Toy BFI]

I was trying not to reveal the Major 4x4 Equipment Retailer, but yes I was referring to 4x4 Mega World and suspected that you had their Generic one; glad to hear that the quality is in keeping with the rest of their product range

[BenHur]

My wheel thingie is theirs as they were R 30 rand cheaper then Makro at the stage but the jack itself is the red Adendorf farm jack aka "al cheapo"

[LouisZ]

If it works it Works.

[BenHur]

Louis

Cant remember does the TMAX also have the thicker pin or is it replaceable like on the Hi -Lift

[Dadz Toy BFI]

Louis

Cant remember does the TMAX also have the thicker pin or is it replaceable like on the Hi -Lift

The other and some say more prominant engineering detail is:

Do the Generics have cast or drawn steel ladders

Hi-Lift offer products in both, each having their own advantages and disadvantages; I weighed up both, particularly my application and method of transporting/mounting my jack before deciding which to buy. :Geek: :roll:

[BenHur]

So did you buy the genuine one then? I presume the High Lift is cast steal not sure :? :?

As I said if my Farm Jack is good enough to hold up the Pajero it will most probably hold up a loaded Lux as well.

[Dadz Toy BFI]

So did you buy the genuine one then? I presume the High Lift is cast steal not sure :? :?

As I said if my Farm Jack is good enough to hold up the Pajero it will most probably hold up a loaded Lux as well.

Now who's not reading his posts properly this morning :roll:

Re-read;

Hi-Lift offer products in both

cast and drawn rolled steel

Which is yours

(Hint: Cast ladder holes do not elongate nor lose their leading or trailing edges) :Geek:

Mine e-cast mos :roll:

[Mud Dog]

A good quality winch is really something 'lekker' to have in times of trouble. Seeing as I cannot justify the cost of such equipment for the number of times where I could have used it, I sometimes carry a 'farm jack and a good old 'block & tackle' with a few extra ropes and chain. I also carry 3 cut down lengths of iron fence standards (about 800mm) and a mallet, along with a couple of tread plates.

This brings me to the tip I wanted to leave you. As I am often alone without an assisting vehicle and sod's law dictates that the nearest anchor point will be too far, I make my own anchor. The spare wheel is a good idea, but this is quicker, better and a lot less work.

One drives the first iron standard into the ground at about 45 degrees facing away from the vehicle, fix the recovery chain at ground level, then drive the 2nd standard in at the same angle about 2 m back and the third at a further 2m back. Then one tensions the top of the first standard down to the ground level of the 2nd and the top of the second to ground level of the 3rd using a good rope doubled in a loop. This setup gives leverage of the 2nd and 3rd standards over the 1st and 2nd respectively, and has never failed me as long as the soil is reasonably firm (not mud or beach sand). It has even pulled me out where the full weight of the Lux plus load was resting on the diffs.

I hope you find this a helpful technique and that you don't have to use it often. :)