Hilux 4x4 Forum

Middag almal.

Ek weet die topic is al holrug gery, maar ek wil net weet of iemand al 'n 3Y of 'n 4Y suksesvol geturbo het. Ek is besig om navorsing en berekeninge te maak om 'n 4Y te turbo. Natuurlik met EFI gedoen.

I'm pretty sure that there was a post on doing this to a 4Y here some years ago, and it was troublesome, as far as I can recall over-heating and blowqn head gasket problems. Might be wrong, though.

EFI on a 4Y is indeed avery worthwhile exercise, leading to much motoring joy!


-F_D

Ek het n 3y met n turbo op gehad.Ehet hom so nuut van Toyota af gekoop.Dit was n Alphine conversion met caburettor op.Geen probleme met hom gehad nie.Hy het lekker getrek net vrek swaar op brandstof gewees.

The owner of Carburetor Sales & Spares in Paarden Eiland, CT, has a turbo'd, hybrid carb'd 4Y 4x4 lux and he has managed to drag 140kw out of it, however, I always see it with the bonnet up:) No harm in giving him a ring though.

Dankie vir julle insette. Ek verstaan die vleis tussen die silinders op die 4Y is bietjie min, wat verduidelik hoekom die gaskets nie hou nie.

Ek oorweeg om 'n 3Y eers te probeer. Lekker square kapasiteit en ek dink met al die regte bestandele kan dit nogal 'n lekker enjin wees.

As ek 4Y gaan, dan gaan die blok moet ge- o-ring word, dink aan 'n brace plate en dan custom headgaskets. Sal die kompressie bietjie moet opbring, agv die brace plate, dan magic werk met die head, olie pomp upgrade, stud kit, beter main en big ends en dan TD04 Forester turbo wat net op wastegate druk gaan boost ( so 0.5bar).

Soek net daai ekstra vir die bulte en die verby vat episodes.

Well I don’t have experience of a turbo on 4Y engine however many have claimed that the 4Y is not turbo compatible as per their experiences. They do not state what conversions they have done or if any at all.

Doing a turbo has to have a reduced compression ratio which means low compressions pistons installed. Pistons have to be compatible to turbo pressures and extra heat as well. The con rods have to be stronger ones to handle the extra pressure. The radiator cap pressure is 0.9 bars stock. With the added pressure and extra heat, water will be sent way too early to the water bottle which is one of the causes of the overheating. The cap needs to be a 1.1 to 1.3 bar pressure to help with the overheating aspect. All rubber hoses should be changed to make sure there are no weak spots on them due to age. Preferable agent hoses to ensure good quality rubber.
Just some of the pointers which I could think of.

Alpine turbos was a turbo specialist in Durban, not sure if they had branches in Gauteng, which many vehicle manufactures used back in the day to do a so called “factory turbo” and on carbureted engines as well.

I suggest to seek out professional advise from a turbo specialist before installing to attain a reliable build.

If you do go ahead with the build, kindly provide details and updates.

If anyone can recall, back in the day there was also a bolt on super charger kit for the 4Y engine.
I tried making enquires but could not find anyone who still has them.

Nee Jan-Hendrik,

Jy wil net droogmaak! Jou trokkie se waarde le in sy oorspronklikheid.

As jy meer krag MOET he, gaan eerder die 22R enjin. Speel bietjie met die head, branches 'n 57mm freeflow, dan behoort jy romdom 160-180 perde te he. 22R turbo ook baie beter agv sy crossflow ontwerp.

Die Y enjins is nie crossflow nie en dan werk aanjaaging nie lekker nie - maar dit weet jy mos?

Die rede hoekom ek wil gaan vir die monoflow/reverse flow enjin is omdat dit baie goed reageer op lae rpm met turbo en EFi, waar die crossflow enjins beter doen op hoe rpm met turbo en EFi. Ook die reverse flow is beter met exhaust scavenging wat beter mengsel lading toelaat. Vir die overheating aspek gaan ek met 'n Mishimoto radiator gaan, upgraded pype, clamps en cap. Ek gaan ook 'n elektriese waaier voor op die radiator mount met 'n thermal switch.

Die ander voordeel is dat die pypwerk vir die turbo is eenvoudiger en korter op die crossflow. Dit beteken minder turbo lag, en met 'n TD04 gaan ek basies 0.5bar boost al op 2500-2800 rpm. Saam met EFi gaan dit baie goed werk.

Rede vir die kompressie verhoog op die 4Y is dat die kompressie al klaar laag is, en met 'n brace plate gaan dit nog laer. As ek met 'n 3Y gaan is die brace plate nie nodig nie.

Ek stem saam op die oorspronklikheid gedeelte, maar daar is nie genoeg geld in die wereld om my trok te koop nie. So hoekom nie dan my trok bou soos wat ek graag wil he nie? Hulle gaan my nog begrawe in my trok!