no power on my 2.2 4y

[mossie89]

I have a 4x4 D/C Hilux 1988 and the engine, a 2.2 4y, was redone 10 000 km back, the carb was replaced because of this problem and she is very thirsty (5.2l/km). When I drive on a level road or down hill she runs fine, but as soon when I go up hill there's no power, 3rd gear 70 km/h that's it! and she starts to spatter and as soon as the road levels out every thing returns to normal, if you can call it normal. Fuel pump? Please need some help

[Hoppy]

Trek die petrol toevoer pypie op die carb af en sit hom in n bottel, start hom en laat hom vir een minuut idle, hy moet so 750ml of meer gee.
Ek kry gereeld dat 4Y's nie meer krag het na n oordoen nie, die meeste van hulle se cam timing is uit, die 4Y is eenvoudig, maar ook maklik om verkeerd te kry.
Ps; neem vir my n foto van die enjin van bo af, ek wil iets kyk

[arnize2]

Riaan, klim in jou Hilux en ry na Allan toe in Brckenfell! Dit sal oor en oor die moeite werd wees.

[LouisZ]

Meeste keer is die die second stage wat nie reg is op die carb. Anders kyk na die timing, mens kan dit stel so +/- 7 grade.

[Mr_B]

Had the same issue on my 4Y engine after a professional rebuild. Hoppy landed up diagnosing/fixing incorrect valve timing... this after the guys that did the rebuild told me I needed to buy a new carb to fix the issue... name and shame I say... Goch & Cooper!

[mossie89]

hallo hoppy

Hoop dit gaan help anders moet ek die bakkie maar bring

[Tarquin]

Had the same issue on my 4Y engine after a professional rebuild. Hoppy landed up diagnosing/fixing incorrect valve timing... this after the guys that did the rebuild told me I needed to buy a new carb to fix the issue... name and shame I say... Goch & Cooper!

When you say incorrect valve timing does that mean the timing beetween the crank and cam?

[Mud Dog]

Had the same issue on my 4Y engine after a professional rebuild. Hoppy landed up diagnosing/fixing incorrect valve timing... this after the guys that did the rebuild told me I needed to buy a new carb to fix the issue... name and shame I say... Goch & Cooper!

When you say incorrect valve timing does that mean the timing between the crank and cam?

I'm sure that's what Bretton means .... 1 tooth out on the sprocket can make a significant difference, and that's possible without the valves fouling against the pistons.

[tonyjugoslav]

Hi everyone

i'm having a similar problem here in Australia. i'm curious about fuel consumption for my new '86 2.2L 4runner. it has the 4Y engine and at the moment i'm getting about 300k's out of a tank, averaging about 5.7 k's per litre. is this normal? it has 302000 on the clock. it could definitely do with a new set of points, maybe new plugs and a carb rebuild wouldn't go astray but i did not anticipate the fuel consumption was going to be like that. are there any other pointers any one could help out with? also, does anyone know what the capacity of the tank is for sure? from my research im fairly sure its 55L but some confirmation would be great. also dropping an aftermarket carb in there might be a good idea too. has anyone done this? there are preset weber carbs on ebay for $529. any recommendations on suitable carbs for this engine would also be very helpful.

thanks, Jacob.

[Mr_B]

Had the same issue on my 4Y engine after a professional rebuild. Hoppy landed up diagnosing/fixing incorrect valve timing... this after the guys that did the rebuild told me I needed to buy a new carb to fix the issue... name and shame I say... Goch & Cooper!

When you say incorrect valve timing does that mean the timing between the crank and cam?

I'm sure that's what Bretton means .... 1 tooth out on the sprocket can make a significant difference, and that's possible without the valves fouling against the pistons.

Yip, on my motor it was not 1 but 2 teeth out... just flippin poor workmanship.

[Mars]

Hi everyone

i'm having a similar problem here in Australia. i'm curious about fuel consumption for my new '86 2.2L 4runner. it has the 4Y engine and at the moment i'm getting about 300k's out of a tank, averaging about 5.7 k's per litre. is this normal? it has 302000 on the clock. it could definitely do with a new set of points, maybe new plugs and a carb rebuild wouldn't go astray but i did not anticipate the fuel consumption was going to be like that. are there any other pointers any one could help out with? also, does anyone know what the capacity of the tank is for sure? from my research im fairly sure its 55L but some confirmation would be great. also dropping an aftermarket carb in there might be a good idea too. has anyone done this? there are preset weber carbs on ebay for $529. any recommendations on suitable carbs for this engine would also be very helpful.

thanks, Jacob.

I would first get all the basics right before I start spending money on other carbs etc. Give it a good service. Replace the spark plugs, rotor, Distributor cap and HT leads as well as all the filters. Make sure the ignition timing is right and that the vacuum hoses are not leaking such as the one for the vacuum advance on the distributor. At 320 000-00 ks a carb rebuild would be a good idea as well. If it still is that bad then start looking for other solutions.

[LouisZ]

4Y the valve timing is controlled via lifters. on cant set this.

But the rotor timing(phase) is that you can get better by lifting the dizzy out, turn the engine to TDS and re insert the dizzy that the rotor point is aligned with no spark plug on the cap.

[Mr_B]

4Y the valve timing is controlled via lifters. on cant set this.

But the rotor timing(phase) is that you can get better by lifting the dizzy out, turn the engine to TDS and re insert the dizzy that the rotor point is aligned with no spark plug on the cap.

Ummm Louis, that's incorrect... the basic valve timing is controlled by the position of the crank in relation to the cam shaft, this "relationship" in maintained by the timing chain, which can easily be installed incorrectly, so setting the alignment between cam and crank one or 2 teeth out. What you are referring to is the valve clearance/lift, which on a 4Y is non-settable due to the use of hydraulic lifters, which regulate lift via oil pressure.

[Mr_B]

A piccie to help:



and another:

[ForYota]

Druk n 2.5 ford in sy neus, jy sal wens jyt meer ratte om die opdraende uit te klim

Jammer ek moes net

[LouisZ]

yes you right . Remember if there was no work done to an engine it should be right Exept if the chain was old and stretched.

[mossie89]

The timing chain and timing gears were all replaced. For the Aussie, before the overall she would cruise at 120 km easily with fuel consumption at around 6.8 to 7 km/l on the open road, and a very small fuel tank, I think 45 or 50 L no more than that. So some were along the lime something was put in wrongly. My knowledge of timing are very dangerous and I thing the bakkie has a date with Hoppy for a good checkup.

[Mud Dog]

Open the cover and check valve timing that it's correct. Also check the chain for excessive stretch if it was not replaced with the overhaul. It should already have been replaced at about 200 000 kms but it's often overlooked or ignored because it's a chain, not a belt and won't snap as easily after long service. Best would be to replace it in any event.

As mentioned, go over all the basics - ignition system / plugs / coil / leads / points / condenser, vacuum hoses, vacuum advance, altitude compensator etc. Also check the dizzy rotor shaft for bearing play and the rotor arm for wear / arcing. Ignition timing to be set at between 8° and 9° advanced at 1000rpm - you could go as high as 12° advanced but it may develop pinging depending on fuel octane and mixture settings.

The carb float camber level should be exactly in the centre of the sight glass. With high mileage it's advisable to have the carb competently refurbished. Stay with the original Nikki carb rather than fit a Weber or VW Golf carb. The Nikki is designed for these motors and to still function properly on inclines, declines or side slopes - other carbs will tend to over-fuel or starve in such conditions. The Weber can be modified to dump fuel via an overflow if the float chamber over fills, but this is nowhere near ideal (fire hazard, environmental contamination and of course wasted fuel).

Often overlooked is the air filter element. Replace it if it's old, otherwise blow it out with compressed air.

The 4y is quite capable of giving consumption figures around 10km/lit on the open road, depending on terrain driving style / cruising speed / head-winds / tyre sizes and pressures etc.