Heater STILL not working . . . What do I try next?

[SideKick]

Hi guys

So I'm busy trying to get my Hilux's heater working. What I could see what was wrong was the cable under the dash controlling the heater warm water valve was broken:

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So I thought that the warm water valve probably seized, and the previous owner tried to force it and snapped the cable.

So what I did was get one of those VW valves and put it in. Since the cable is not connected up, I opened the valve up by hand, but I still only get freezing cold air blowing into my cabin I felt the water pype on both sides of the valve, and they are both warm, so there is warm water flowing through there . . .

Where do I look next to fix this?

Thanks!!!

[519franco]

where did you get the valve and how does it look. cause if i try to get valve it hard to explain

[SideKick]

where did you get the valve and how does it look. cause if i try to get valve it hard to explain

Toyota wants R1080 for the valve, so I got a VW pirate part and put it in like here:

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[Mud Dog]

There are two cables connected to that control lever .... one operates the valve while the other operates a flap which allows the air through the little radiator into the cab. Could be that that flap is still closed and so no warm air.

[SideKick]

There are two cables connected to that control lever .... one operates the valve while the other operates a flap which allows the air through the little radiator into the cab. Could be that that flap is still closed and so no warm air.

That second cable is still connected and I can hear the flap opening and closing . . .

Should I try and open it up and check? Is that difficult? Do I need to take out the dash to do that?

Thanks!

[CasKru]

Is that flap you are referring to not just to change between circulating air inside the cabin or to open the vent to allow air in from the outside?

[SideKick]

Is that flap you are referring to not just to change between circulating air inside the cabin or to open the vent to allow air in from the outside?

Nope. That is on another switch. Top right I think.

The one I'm referring to is the bottom left switch that sets the temperature . . .

[GeorgeJvR]

Do you have an A/C?

[GeorgeJvR]

If not remove the "glove compartment" and then remove the vent right behind it "if you dont have an A/C, that is"
check in the center box if any thing moves when you switch the lever

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[Mr_B]

I used a corolla/conquest heater valve on Bolt, 2nd hand unit, the configuration was similar to the SFA's so fitment was much easier than the VW unit! Caryota in Kuilsriver should have good condition 2nd hand units.

[SideKick]

If not remove the "glove compartment" and then remove the vent right behind it "if you dont have an A/C, that is"
check in the center box if any thing moves when you switch the lever

The attachment Cubby out.JPG is no longer available

Hi

Yes, I have a aircon. But I did follow that cable to here behind my center console:

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Do I take that black box out and open it up?

And do I need to take out my entire dash for that?

[Mr_B]

Do I take that black box out and open it up?

And do I need to take out my entire dash for that?

Unfortunately... yes... :evil:

[GeorgeJvR]

Call me zero 82 4one9 2359

If that cable moves the link you should be able to hear it "FLAP" over
There might be some blockage.

[Mud Dog]

Hmmmm .... strange! If the 2nd cable is still connected to the flap and you can hear it open / close then I think you might have one or both of two other possible problems ...... The airflow over the radiator is restricted, could be that the radiator fins are clogged with debris ... or ..... the radiator itself is cloged internally and needs to be flushed.

Without taking anything out, set the fan to it's highest position and the airflow to the upper vents only .... close the two side vents manually so that all the airflow is directed to the centre vents. While the fan runs, feel if the airflow volume changes when you switch between hot and cold on the heater lever. Also do the same when switching between inside / outside air. That should indicate whether there is a restriction somewhere.

With the motor running, heater and fan set to full, check the difference in temp between the supply and return pipes to the radiator. The return should be a little cooler but should still be very hot .... if not, then there is a restriction of water flow through the radiator.

Hope this helps you find the problem.

[Mountain Man]

If you don't have a thermostat the air never gets hot enough to notice.

[SideKick]

With the motor running, heater and fan set to full, check the difference in temp between the supply and return pipes to the radiator. The return should be a little cooler but should still be very hot .... if not, then there is a restriction of water flow through the radiator.

Hi

I checked it like you said and this pype is cold:

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Is that the correct pype comming out?

And if so, where / how do I check for a restiction? (Sorry if it's a stupid question)

[The Legend]

Stephan,

If the water circulate properly that pipe with the red circle should also be hot.I am a bit confuse because you said the pipe is cold but in the beginning of your thread you said it is warm.Or do i miss something?

[Mud Dog]

There has to be a water flow restriction somewhere .... either it's the valve that's not opening inside or the heater radiator is clogged. The valve would be the easiest to eliminate so start there .... disconnect it so that you can see the workings inside and make sure it's open. Try blow through with the circled pipe disconnected ..... if you cannot blow through, it's the radiator. If that's the case, you can try blowing it back with a bit of compressed air, but be gentle .... you could blow the radiator as they are not designed to withstand high pressure .... (if nothing is passing through, then a radiator flush wouldn't work either).

[Mikie]

Keep a blanket in your bakkie?? :-)

[SideKick]

Stephan,

If the water circulate properly that pipe with the red circle should also be hot.I am a bit confuse because you said the pipe is cold but in the beginning of your thread you said it is warm.Or do i miss something?

Where the water goes in it is hot, there by the valve. It's hot before the valve, and after the valve between the valve and the firewall. So the warm water is there and it goes throught the valve.

But where it comes back out of the firewall, there where I circled in red, it is cold.

There has to be a water flow restriction somewhere .... either it's the valve that's not opening inside or the heater radiator is clogged. The valve would be the easiest to eliminate so start there .... disconnect it so that you can see the workings inside and make sure it's open.

I put in a cheap VW Valve that is open and working

Try blow through with the circled pipe disconnected ..... if you cannot blow through, it's the radiator.

Don't you mean if I CAN blow through, then it's the radiator?

[Mr_B]

No... if you can't blow through then the heat exchange radiator in the cab is probably blocked.

[SideKick]

No... if you can't blow through then the heat exchange radiator in the cab is probably blocked.

Ahh

I was thinking RADIATOR radiator. The big one . . . Didn't know about the second one in the cab . . .

Thanks guys!!! Will check that this afternoon

[GeorgeJvR]

This is what it looks like in side the dash

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[SideKick]

No... if you can't blow through then the heat exchange radiator in the cab is probably blocked.

I'm not very good with blowing But I gave it my best shot . . . and nothing . . .

So I'll be taking out my dash to get to the radiator to see if I can get this blockage cleaned out . . .

Thanks guys!!!

[The Legend]

No... if you can't blow through then the heat exchange radiator in the cab is probably blocked.

I'm not very good with blowing But I gave it my best shot . . . and nothing . . .

So I'll be taking out my dash to get to the radiator to see if I can get this blockage cleaned out . . .

Thanks guys!!!

Is dit nie die Gunstons ciggies wat hule tol eis nie

[Mud Dog]

If you have access to a compressor, give it a try first to blow it back, but use the regulated pressure connection (not direct off the tank) and turn the regulator down to below 1 bar .... maybe about 0.8 ..... don't really know off-hand what pressure the cooling system operates at but you could check the pressure value on the radiator cap to determine a safe pressure. Might just save you hauling out the dash.

[SideKick]

If you have access to a compressor, give it a try first to blow it back, but use the regulated pressure connection (not direct off the tank) and turn the regulator down to below 1 bar .... maybe about 0.8 ..... don't really know off-hand what pressure the cooling system operates at but you could check the pressure value on the radiator cap to determine a safe pressure. Might just save you hauling out the dash.

Don't have a compressor . . . :problem:

But going to take the dash out anyway to take care of a rust / leaking problem that developed in the corners behind the dash . . .