Captain Awesome's 4y EFI Conversion

SideKick · Post by **SideKick** » Sat Feb 04, 2012 5:57 pm

Hi guys

So it looks like I'm going down the EFI route myself as well. I decided to document it here every step of the way too.

I've read Family_Dog's 4Y EFI Conversion - Chapter 1 and Chapter 2 as well as Mr_B's 4Y - Fuel Injection - Complete DIY Parts List.

First things first. Buy the needed parts . . . (In no specific order)

SideKick · Post by **SideKick** » Sat Feb 04, 2012 6:02 pm

First part - Air temperature sensor.

I gave Toyota a call and was blown away when they quoted me R900 on a 5cm piece of plastic :wth:

So I decided to look around. First stop, Spareyota in Parow. Short story even shorter, they give me one that came off a Camry 2.0i for R75

Thank you very much!!!

SideKick · Post by **SideKick** » Sat Feb 04, 2012 6:30 pm

So the next part on my list is the distributor. Mr_B has been helping and advising me very diligently

Thank you very much!!! He told my my vacuume advance distributer won't work and I need a Dual Magnetic Pickup Distributor.

He sent me two pics:

1 - What I want, the Dual Magnetic Pickup Distributor:

2 -What I don't want, the Single Pickup Distributor:

Now this part was a lot harder to find than the air temp sensor. I've been phoning all over the show, and after weeks, Mike's place tells me they have a distributer for me at R1000. (And I'm not even sure it's the correct one!!! I think they have the single pickup distributer. But not sure since I never saw it)

So on my way there this morning, I decide to stop at Moag's first to see if they can help me. (I called a week earlier, but with no luck) So I stop there and tell one of the guys in the front what I need. He leaves me to go get one in the back and comes back a few minutes later. I ask to open it up, and it ended up being the single pickup Dissi. I show him that it's the wrong one and I can see in his face he doesn't want to stand there and open a hundred of these to find the right one. So he tells me I can go into the store room and look for one myself. He takes me to the back room, and I start to go through them myself. Almost done about an hour later, what's obviously the store room's "voorman" comes in and k@ks me out about being there and messing up his stuff. After showing him I'm putting everything back nice and tidy where I find it, he lightens up and asks what I'm looking for. I tell him and he replies by saying that if I don't find what I need here, I can go look "upstairs" So I go through the rest of the store room, and nada. No luck. I go to the to the voorman, and he directs me on where I need to go look:

Now it looks a mess, but at least it's semi-sorted believe it or not. And lo and behold, in a two minutes, I find not one, but FIVE!!!! And I'm sure there's a lot more . . . So I open up a couple of them and I pick out the one that looks to be in the best condition.

R650 and a fanta for the voorman later and I walk out of there with my next part ticked off the list

Tune into the next episode to see how I get my hands on the intake / inlet parts!!!

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 8:01 am

Jy moes al 5 gekoop het...

GI Jane · Post by **GI Jane** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 8:16 am

ThysdJ wrote:Jy moes al 5 gekoop het...

Hoekom???

Post by **Mud Dog** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 8:22 am

GI Jane wrote:
ThysdJ wrote:Jy moes al 5 gekoop het...
Hoekom???

Want Val en 'n paar anders sall ook daarna op soek wees!

SideKick · Post by **SideKick** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:02 am

Mud Dog wrote:
GI Jane wrote:
ThysdJ wrote:Jy moes al 5 gekoop het...
Hoekom???
Want Val en 'n paar anders sall ook daarna op soek wees!

You go upstairs, last room, first shelf on the left

witmamba · Post by **witmamba** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:21 am

Hey Stephan, keep an eye out for a 'idle control valve' for me as well please. That's all i still need to start my conversion to EFI. Spartan's boet bought me a air temp sensor from GoTech last week, should work as i'm running with the GT ECU.

Good luck!

Danman · Post by **Danman** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 10:52 am

witmamba wrote:Hey Stephan, keep an eye out for a 'idle control valve' for me as well please. That's all i still need to start my conversion to EFI. Spartan's boet bought me a air temp sensor from GoTech last week, should work as i'm running with the GT ECU.

Good luck!

m2cw, Please remember to isolate the ICV from the throttle control body/inlett manifold.
I bought a secondhand ICV and when we tested it, it worked fine only to blow a fuse down the road.
Assuming that it was the ICV that was shot I purchaced a new one from GoldWagen for R1300

only to find that it did the same.
After closer inspection I found that the ICV was touching the manifold and had arc marks on it.
I took insulation tape and wrapped the ICV, clamped it in place and tested it with the secondhand VDO ICV. It worked 100%, took it off and tried the same with the GW part only to find that it was blown. Put back the VDO part and am still running it problem free the past 3 months.

This was a R1300 lesson that I would not want anyone else to learn.

Ps. I replaced the insulation tape with a rubber hose(looks better).

witmamba · Post by **witmamba** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 11:36 am

Thanks Danie!

witmamba · Post by **witmamba** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 11:38 am

I have a spare 3y dizzy (dual magnetic pick-up) that i would like to keep as a spare, but would be willing to swop it for a ICV if anyone has one lying around. :)

SideKick · Post by **SideKick** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 11:49 am

witmamba wrote:Hey Stephan, keep an eye out for a 'idle control valve' for me as well please. That's all i still need to start my conversion to EFI. Spartan's boet bought me a air temp sensor from GoTech last week, should work as i'm running with the GT ECU.

Good luck!

You know, the deal I made myself was to buy the parts slowly but surely so I can do the conversion end of April, NOT to spend 4 hours on the phone to finally find a ICV in Grassy Park (Hopefully!!!!). Gonna go take a look around 2:00 and wil let you know if it's the correct part as they quoted around R200

witmamba · Post by **witmamba** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 12:08 pm

Sounds good - Thanx1

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 12:41 pm

SideKick, I found the ICV for Bolt at Barnetts in Stikland... they had quite a few lying around in different states of disrepair. Most of the time they're still attached to the engine! While you at it get the rubber mounting bracket goody for a Golf engine as well, then you got no possible arcing/fuse blowing problems!

SideKick · Post by **SideKick** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 12:45 pm

Mr_B wrote:SideKick, I found the ICV for Bolt at Barnetts in Stikland... they had quite a few lying around in different states of disrepair. Most of the time they're still attached to the engine! While you at it get the rubber mounting bracket goody for a Golf engine as well, then you got no possible arcing/fuse blowing problems!

Hi

I tried them. I spent 4 hours calling all over the western Cape and even one or two places in Gauteng. I printed out this pic to take with:

This is what I need isn't it?

Also, that rubber mounting bracket. Does that come in just the golf? Or the Kombi too?

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 12:55 pm

That look more or less right, as long as it's a 2 wire plunger type it will be fine! The one in the pic looks like an older model.

Bolt's one looked like this:

I note that the pic above was labelled Jetta 1990! Not sure if the 1990 Jetta was a MK2 or MK3 VW?

witmamba · Post by **witmamba** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 1:01 pm

witmamba · Post by **witmamba** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 3:00 pm

Any news on that ICV yet Stephan?

SideKick · Post by **SideKick** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 3:06 pm

OK, so here is a quick summary of my experience getting hold of an Idle control Valve.

I couple of things they don't tell idiots like me before the time:

First nice to know. You can't put an idle control valve of a smaller engine onto a bigger one, but you can put an ICV of a bigger engine onto a smaller one. That is why you can't use one that you can get in a City Golf. They never came out with engines bigger than 1.8L. Next thing. Only your older VWs came out with ICVs. The newer ones don't. And THAT is why they are so difficult to get hold of. You are limited to the 2.5 kombi (the 2.0L Jetta part is not recomended, but apparantly can work).

So from here it's just the luck of the draw getting hold of a second hand part as you need to find a place that stripped one of those engines recently. After about 4 hour of calling all over the western cape, I finally found the part at Microbus Mania.

They have a small boksie full

but they don't all look EXACTLY the same.

But they told me they will all work and it's the same thing. Can someone here confirm that for us?

Normal price: R350. But because I took 2, they gave it to me at R250 each. A LOT BETTER THAN BUYING A NEW ONE AT GOLDWAGEN AT R1500!!!!!!!!

The thing now is WHERE can I get these parts tested? They gave me 7 days to return it if it's faulty

And while we're at it, where can I test that dissi I got this weekend too?

PS Mr_B, is that rubber thingies the rubber mounting bracket goody for a Golf engine that you spoke of? I picked two ICVs that had them on . . .

PS, they ONLY TAKE CASH, so go draw money BEFORE you go into Grassy Park :wink2:

Jaco Versfeld · Post by **Jaco Versfeld** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 3:12 pm

Apparently, Goldwagen also stock ICVs for Opel, very similar to the Golf's ICV, at R650.

witmamba · Post by **witmamba** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 4:40 pm

SideKick · Post by **SideKick** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 10:29 pm

witmamba wrote:

Hi Hans

I sent you a PM

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Tue Feb 07, 2012 8:24 am

Just outta interest, I'm pretty sure Bolt's ICV came off a 1600 Golf motor. Was still attached to the engine when I found it at the scrapyard. Believe me, there was more than enough air flowing through it to control the 2.2's idle! Testing the ICV is easy, clean it out with some Electro Cleaner solution(tin). Then wire up the 2 terminals by the plug, connect one to the batt earth, and tap the other on the batt positive. The ICV plunger must open and close fully. You'll hear and feel the plunger moving. Then suck on one of the open ends with the plunger closed, there must be zero air leakage through the plunger! If there is leakage the ICV may need another clean, or the plunger is stoofed!

Also mount the ICV in such a way that it's accessible and removeable without too much fuss. The VDO plunger type ICV's should be cleaned out every 10000km, as part of your normal engine service. Install it in the wrong spot and you'll battle to remove it for cleaning. They do get dirty inside and then tend to leak and get sticky which negatively affects engine idle!

witmamba · Post by **witmamba** » Tue Feb 07, 2012 12:47 pm

Thanks Stephan - payment made!

So... have you sucked the ICV's yet?

Mountain Man · Post by **Mountain Man** » Tue Feb 07, 2012 1:18 pm

witmamba wrote: So... have you sucked the ICV's yet?

Pictures

SideKick · Post by **SideKick** » Tue Feb 07, 2012 1:21 pm

Sitting here in the office and have got meetings comming out my my ears!

Also don't have tools, or the needed two point plug thingy, to connect it up to the batt now to test anyway . . .

SideKick · Post by **SideKick** » Tue Feb 07, 2012 1:24 pm

I might be able to test it this afternoon Hans if you want to have your courier wait till tomorrow . . .

witmamba · Post by **witmamba** » Tue Feb 07, 2012 1:32 pm

Nah Stephan, send it when they come to pick it up. I'm going with your gut feeling if you think it is o.k.

Thanks!

SideKick · Post by **SideKick** » Tue Feb 07, 2012 1:41 pm

witmamba wrote:Nah Stephan, send it when they come to pick it up. I'm going with your gut feeling if you think it is o.k.

Thanks!

Cool. It's busy being packed. If it doesn't work, feel free to send it back and I can get it swopped out . . . They gave us seven days to do it . . .

witmamba · Post by **witmamba** » Tue Feb 07, 2012 2:34 pm

@ R330.00 delivery for that little package I don't think I'll be sending it back. We have an account @ DHL and they rob me like that?

But thanks anyway Stephan

witmamba · Post by **witmamba** » Tue Feb 07, 2012 2:39 pm

"Hans, polarity doesn't make a difference... any way will do!"

B's advice

SideKick · Post by **SideKick** » Tue Feb 07, 2012 2:47 pm

witmamba wrote:@ R330.00 delivery for that little package I don't think I'll be sending it back. We have an account @ DHL and they rob me like that?

But thanks anyway Stephan

I just spoke the the head of our companies' logistics department. Apparantly PCG is A LOT cheaper than DHL . . . Maybe worth taking a look at . . .

Post by **Family_Dog** » Tue Feb 07, 2012 7:01 pm

For future reference, use Speed Services overnight delivery, counter to counter. R62.00 if the weight is no more than 1Kg.

-F_D

Willied · Post by **Willied** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 8:17 am

Sidekick, did you make a decision on the ECU you will be using?

What advantages does the dual pickup have over the single pickup?

SideKick · Post by **SideKick** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 8:46 am

Willied wrote:Sidekick, did you make a decision on the ECU you will be using?

What advantages does the dual pickup have over the single pickup?

Hey hey

From reading all over this forum and every EFI thread I could find, I decided to go with the Dictator ECU. ANyone that thinks I should go with something else, feel free to post and why.

And the advantages of the dual pickup over the single? I don't know if there's any advantages. Again, someone more knowledgeable than me can comment here. But as I understand it the dual pickup is less troublesome . . .

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 10:22 am

Willied wrote:Sidekick, did you make a decision on the ECU you will be using?

What advantages does the dual pickup have over the single pickup?

First of all the 4Y vacuum advance electronic distributor(single pickup) won't work for EFi. Simply because it has timing control via manifold vacuum and a centifugal weights mechanism. In this distributor the mag pickup is attached to a rotating plate, this rotating plate changes the timing by moving the pickup in relation to the trigger wheel! In a fuel injection compatible dissi the mag pickup is fixed in position, it cannot move! The ECU controls the timing itself! Some guys has tried welding the rotating plate to the base, but it doesn't work cause the dissi base is alu and the plate is nickel plated metal. It's just not worth the hassle! Note that it is possible to do fuelling-only EFi, where the timing is left up to the vac advance dissi, but EFi's advantage is that the fuelling and timing combination can be controlled per load point very accurately. Fuel-only EFi really isn't worth the time and labour! If you want the really benefits you must let the ECU control timing and fuel!

Then for clarity sake, there are OEM Toyota distributors that can be found at the engine importer, both are dual pickup. Only one of them really works 100%, the other can be made to work, but I've had varying results with it and the mods to attempt to make it work are a pain!

Below is a pic the correct distributor, mag pickups are at the same level, at 90deg to each other, trigger by the same 4 tooth trigger wheel. Note that the top trigger wheel is not used:

Then the much less desirable one is this one, 2 mag pickups, one on top pulsed by a 4 tooth trigger wheel, the other at the bottom pulsed by a 24 tooth trigger wheel(pic below depicts the modified trigger wheel). The problems with this one are, you need to remove the bottom trigger wheel and grind down all by 4 teeth(not easy to remove, but easy to damage the trigger wheel); when re-installing it you need to align the top and botton trigger wheel perfectly else you will have problems with misfiring at high engine rpm, say 4000rpm+; the pickups need to be wired in parrellel to double up the signal, if you get it wrong you'll half the signal strength; the shaft runs on bushes, which once worn cannot be replaced(the dissi above has a replacable bearing on the shaft); we've had issues get the trigger angle right with this one.

So honestly don't even bother with the bottom one! The top ones advantages are:
- Pickups are perfectly aligned,
- Minimal mods are needed, just give it a good clean, replace the shaft bearing and fit the mag adapter+housing
- No shaft bushes, has replaceable shaft bearing
- Dual pickups double the signal/pulse voltage, this means the ECU can detect the pulse at lower RPM, this equates to easier starting with a cold engine or flat battery. The lower the crank RPM to lower the signal voltage, and vice versa!

Hope this is clear enough! Any questions?

SideKick · Post by **SideKick** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 11:10 am

Willied wrote:Sidekick, did you make a decision on the ECU you will be using?

Hey

Again, anyone is free to correct me if I'm wrong, but here is one of the reasons why I decided to go Dictator. And that is the ICV.

First, the ICV is optional apparantly. But what it can do when connected to an ECU is make it a lot easies to do rock crawling as you can then pretty much idle over anything and everything as the ICV and ECU will control the valve so that you don't stall. The Gotech can't connect up an ICV. The Dictator can. (As far as I know).

But there is some issue apparantly going down a steep decline where you need a cut off switch for the ICV . . .

Can anyone confirm what I said or correct me?

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 11:23 am

SideKick wrote:But there is some issue apparantly going down a steep decline where you need a cut off switch for the ICV . .

personally, I wont trust that thing on a decline... but that's just me. I dont want to struggle to stall the vehicle on a downhill if I feel it is necessary to stabilise the vehicle. Hilux brakes are notoriously crappy as it is. Struggling to kill the engine, with Hilux brakes, against the ICV trying to keep the motor from stalling, while going down a hill is not a good situation in my book. Classic case of "conflict of interest"...

Maybe I am just a bang-gat...

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 11:24 am

Once correctly setup the ICV will allow low speed crawling, but remember it's effectiveness is limited by the engines torque at that RPM(say 700). So don't expect to crawl up a rocky incline without giving any petrol! The ICV's other job is to keep your idle speed stable no matter what the engine load, like when the aircon is going full tilt, brights are on or the steering is at full lock. These usually make the engine want to stall at idle!

All the latest ECU's can control a ICV(of differing types)! The latest generation of aftermarket ECU's are all very good and extremely reliable! There's a few reasons the majority of the guys use a Dicktator STD... it's cheap when compared to other big brands, it has all the functionality needed to accuratelyt control a standard 4 cylinder engine and there's alot of guys on the forum that can give advice on tuning and trouble shooting. Mr Turbo, IMHO, is a piece of junk. GoTech's latest generation ECU's are very good, but have alot of feature that you'll never use when EFi'ing a 4Y! Same thing with Spitronics, the Titan box is awesome, works really well on Lexus V8's, I really like the tuning software, but it's overkill for a 4Y!

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 11:28 am

ThysdJ wrote:
SideKick wrote:But there is some issue apparantly going down a steep decline where you need a cut off switch for the ICV . .
personally, I wont trust that thing on a decline... but that's just me. I dont want to struggle to stall the vehicle on a downhill if I feel it is necessary to stabilise the vehicle. Hilux brakes are notoriously crappy as it is. Struggling to kill the engine, with Hilux brakes, against the ICV trying to keep the motor from stalling, while going down a hill is not a good situation in my book. Classic case of "conflict of interest"...

Maybe I am just a bang-gat...

Thys you're 100% correct! Towards the end of my stint with Bolt I used to switch off the ICV most of the time when offroad! But, what most guys don't know is that older EFi engine like the 7M etc. have vacuum based idle up! The big difference is that "vacuum idle up" was nowhere near as aggressive as the ICV's!

SideKick · Post by **SideKick** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 11:36 am

ThysdJ wrote:
SideKick wrote:But there is some issue apparantly going down a steep decline where you need a cut off switch for the ICV . .
personally, I wont trust that thing on a decline... but that's just me. I dont want to struggle to stall the vehicle on a downhill if I feel it is necessary to stabilise the vehicle. Hilux brakes are notoriously crappy as it is. Struggling to kill the engine, with Hilux brakes, against the ICV trying to keep the motor from stalling, while going down a hill is not a good situation in my book. Classic case of "conflict of interest"...

Maybe I am just a bang-gat...

But a cut-off switch cutting the electricity to the ICV should fix this problem, right?

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 11:44 am

Mr_B wrote:But, what most guys don't know is that older EFi engine like the 7M etc. have vacuum based idle up! The big difference is that "vacuum idle up" was nowhere near as aggressive as the ICV's!

I was aware of that "thing", but could control it. It made Kaspaas lurch forward when I did stall-starts, and I needed to have a foot on the brake all the time.

SideKick wrote:But a cut-off switch cutting the electricity to the ICV should fix this problem, right?

Problem with switches is that you sometimes forget to switch them off. And once things start going wrong, you dont have enough hands to flick switches, hold the steering, stash your drink etc etc... Now if you could combine that switch with you L/R lever... that's another story!!

SideKick · Post by **SideKick** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 11:55 am

ThysdJ wrote:Now if you could combine that switch with you L/R lever... that's another story!!

Nooooooo. Then it won't help with your rock crawling . . .

How about I keep if OFF by default and just turn it ON when I want to try climbing something as vieslik as this:

I already have to brospeed branch with the preheat thingy that should help with cold starting? I presume I can keep that when I change to EFI?

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 12:00 pm

SideKick wrote:Nooooooo. Then it won't help with your rock crawling . . .

What is wrong with your right foot? Broke it?

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 12:06 pm

No... that hotbox goody has to go! With carb fed engines the idea was to warm up the air-fuel mix to get better atomisation of said mixture for cleaner combustion. Remember carb's main jets are not really that fine(when compared to a injection nozzle) and fuel is drawn through by intake manifold pressure, which is not that great! With EFi the fuel is fed through the injectors(tiny hole) under high pressure(2 bar+), which means the mixture is already well atomised for combustion! Another reason for the hotbox was to warm the intake manifold to prevent droplets of fuel condensing on the intake walls which in turn lead to pools of unburnt fuel in the manifold! With EFi, the cold the air the better, hence the cold air induction mod that most of the EFi guys do!

So again... the warmbox has to go!

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 12:06 pm

ThysdJ wrote:
SideKick wrote:Nooooooo. Then it won't help with your rock crawling . . .
What is wrong with your right foot? Broke it?

It's attending a wedding!

Stubs · Post by **Stubs** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 12:07 pm

were your hubs locked ???

and you should have kept going straight forward, why did you steer off to the left, maybe you were trying to switch off the ICU with the L/R lever...heheheh all sounds too complicated to me......dread to think when it all breaks down..what then...?? but goodluck with the project man !!

SideKick · Post by **SideKick** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 12:11 pm

ThysdJ wrote:
SideKick wrote:Nooooooo. Then it won't help with your rock crawling . . .
What is wrong with your right foot? Broke it?

Looking at the above pic I posted. With all the hopping over those thick logs it's VERY difficult to keep revs and speed even. That's all I want. Help to keep my revs and speed even. Every time the Hilux hops over a 30cm thick log, my foot hops a little bit on the pedal and I either loose revs and momentum, or I spin for a split second and loose traction . . .

SideKick · Post by **SideKick** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 12:13 pm

Mr_B wrote:No... that hotbox goody has to go! With carb fed engines the idea was to warm up the air-fuel mix to get better atomisation of said mixture for cleaner combustion. Remember carb's main jets are not really that fine(when compared to a injection nozzle) and fuel is drawn through by intake manifold pressure, which is not that great! With EFi the fuel is fed through the injectors(tiny hole) under high pressure(2 bar+), which means the mixture is already well atomised for combustion! Another reason for the hotbox was to warm the intake manifold to prevent droplets of fuel condensing on the intake walls which in turn lead to pools of unburnt fuel in the manifold! With EFi, the cold the air the better, hence the cold air induction mod that most of the EFi guys do!

So again... the warmbox has to go!

Do I keep the brospeed intake manifold and just disconnect the hotbox? Or do I replace the whole thing with a 3Y intake?

SideKick · Post by **SideKick** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 12:16 pm

Stubs wrote:were your hubs locked ??? and you should have kept going straight forward, why did you steer off to the left, maybe you were trying to switch off the ICU with the L/R lever...heheheh all sounds too complicated to me......dread to think when it all breaks down..what then...?? but goodluck with the project man !!

Those logs are at angles that's perfectly placed to push your front and rear wheels in opposite sideways directions . . . It's not a normal ladder where the steps are at 90 degrees.

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 12:31 pm

SideKick wrote:
Mr_B wrote:No... that hotbox goody has to go! With carb fed engines the idea was to warm up the air-fuel mix to get better atomisation of said mixture for cleaner combustion. Remember carb's main jets are not really that fine(when compared to a injection nozzle) and fuel is drawn through by intake manifold pressure, which is not that great! With EFi the fuel is fed through the injectors(tiny hole) under high pressure(2 bar+), which means the mixture is already well atomised for combustion! Another reason for the hotbox was to warm the intake manifold to prevent droplets of fuel condensing on the intake walls which in turn lead to pools of unburnt fuel in the manifold! With EFi, the cold the air the better, hence the cold air induction mod that most of the EFi guys do!

So again... the warmbox has to go!
Do I keep the brospeed intake manifold and just disconnect the hotbox? Or do I replace the whole thing with a 3Y intake?

Remove the hotbox, keep the brospeed exhaust!

Willied · Post by **Willied** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 9:53 pm

Hey Sidekick.. I was away for a bit but it seems everybody had a go at our questions..

and I have the right kit fitted (Dizzy and ECU).. I went with the Spitronics for one reason, I do not have to modify the dizzy to suite my needs.. The ECU has a built in detonator.. It does all the work.. Just don't pile stuff on it while it is not yet mounted to the dashboard, it get kind of hot.. :wth:

Here is a pic of my ICV, same one you where looking for.. Works great on the Spitronics..

Post by **LouisZ** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 11:51 pm

On the ICV issue. Going down hill with it is not so bad, usuall down hill 4x4 apply, 1st gear low range, light foot on the brakes.

It all comes down to the setup on the Ecu that control the ICV, more sensitive you adjust it how stronger it becomes at low rpm, just to give you example, that pic of yours that the hilux stand crossover that uphill, if the ICV setup on the Ecu is done almost as aggressive as it can go the 4Y Efi will crawl that out at about 500rpm with you not even touching the fuel pedal. But if it is like this down hill will be fast.

Now, if you have time to play, take the Hilux out on a trip, laptop and all and set it while going up and downhill. There will be a point where you can do a uphill at about 700rpm, slight foot on the pedal. Then with this setting you also will do a downhill with 4x4 low in 1st gear with a slight to medium foot on the brake, no off switch for the ICV.

Ecu's, Dictator with a good Diagram is easy to do, also if your Dizzy setup is correct, usually take a bit more time. Splitronics like Willied & B says I think is easier with the dizzy setup with the Titan Box. The earlier boxes of Splitronics I driven was sluggish on the pull away, still better than the carb.

Mr. turbo is a easy way out, but with hassles, a variable controller that one have to set air mixture while you driving is almost like playing with a choke that do not work. Gotech more advanced, too many sensor here and there, rather use it on a nice race car.

The time and quality time spend on the Efi's conversion and setup will ensure your happiness with it. Then another. PAY ATTENTION TO THE WIRING. Make sure what you wire and earths is important!! CHARGE THE BATTERY 24 HOURS BEFORE YOU START.

Post by **Mud Dog** » Thu Feb 09, 2012 9:15 am

Looking at the above pic I posted. With all the hopping over those thick logs it's VERY difficult to keep revs and speed even. That's all I want. Help to keep my revs and speed even. Every time the Hilux hops over a 30cm thick log, my foot hops a little bit on the pedal and I either loose revs and momentum, or I spin for a split second and loose traction . . .

Wedge your right foot against the kick panel .... more deliberate control and no more 'kangaroo petrol' ...... otherwise you can always use the internal throttle control screw knoppie.

Post by **CasKru** » Thu Feb 09, 2012 9:23 am

My ICV setup works like a charm. It will try and maintain the idling at 950RPM when the accelerator is not depressed. So crawling up a smooth hill will easily be controlled by the ICV. When it's uneven terrain I assist with the accelerator pedal but only slightly. Downhill is a different matter. The ICV is not aggressive enough to bring the idling speed back to 950RPM thus causing it to want to run away on down hills.

I installed a switch to switch of the ICV when going down a steep embankment. So when I switch it the engine idle revs fall to about 700RPM barely enough to keep it running but for downhill you want as much compression braking as possible without staling. m2cw

SideKick · Post by **SideKick** » Thu Feb 09, 2012 9:36 am

CasKru wrote:My ICV setup works like a charm. It will try and maintain the idling at 950RPM when the accelerator is not depressed. So crawling up a smooth hill will easily be controlled by the ICV. When it's uneven terrain I assist with the accelerator pedal but only slightly. Downhill is a different matter. The ICV is not aggressive enough to bring the idling speed back to 950RPM thus causing it to want to run away on down hills.

I installed a switch to switch of the ICV when going down a steep embankment. So when I switch it the engine idle revs fall to about 700RPM barely enough to keep it running but for downhill you want as much compression braking as possible without staling. m2cw

That setup is EXACTLY what I had im mind

Post by **CasKru** » Thu Feb 09, 2012 9:39 am

Knip die blou draad en sit die switch op hom :)

Willied · Post by **Willied** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 6:30 pm

Sidekick, what is going on here.. what are you looking for or has the recession hit your build?

SideKick · Post by **SideKick** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 7:13 pm

Willied wrote:has the recession hit your build?

Something like that :) Working on a budget and spreading the parts out over the next 3 months. Hopefully I can do the installation between 25th of April and the 1st of May . . .

Gonna start looking for the 3YE Fuel Injection Inlet Manifold, injectors, fuel rail, throttle body and fuel pressure regulator next week and maybe one or two more things

Willied · Post by **Willied** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 7:36 pm

SideKick wrote:Something like that :) Working on a budget and spreading the parts out over the next 3 months. Hopefully I can do the installation between 25th of April and the 1st of May . . .

Never build over a holiday break.. it got me furious if I needed parts.. make a decent list and get everything and then some..

SideKick wrote:Gonna start looking for the 3YE Fuel Injection Inlet Manifold, injectors, fuel rail, throttle body and fuel pressure regulator next week and maybe one or two more things

Call MYM Spares in Pretoria West, they helped me over the phone and paid by EFT and had the parts picked up by a mate.. 012 327 2480