We went hiking with total strangers.
It happened that Stubs was booked with the crowd as he knows one of the guys' brother.
In the end Stubs could not go anymore which left Elmi and myself to go with this crowd, mainly from Vryheid.
We left Langebaan on 25 May 2012 and the plan was to travel to Springbok, camp there and then continue early on Saturday 26 May.
Close to Elandsbay I realised that I packed Elmi's expired passport and we had to turn back home. Because it was late we decided to leave early on Saturday and drive all the way to Ais Ais.
The border crossing was quick and without any hassles.
Just after we entered Namibia at Noordoewer we took the road to Rosh Pinah. About 1km from the Engen garage there is a little supermarket on the right. I stopped there to buy airtime for our Namibian sim card. In South Africa I was looking everywhere for a little aluminium kettle which can take about 4 cups, for the hiking. I could not find anything. Those of you who have traveled in Nam before will know that most of the shops are very interesting because you find anything from food, spare parts and... a small aluminium kettle.
The first 50km of that road (C13/D212) has been tarred up to Aussenkehr. The last time I traveled on that road it was gravel and only the small piece at Aussenkehr was tar.
Some 5km or so after Aussenkehr you get the C37/D207 which turns right towards Ais Ais. This is a lovely gravel road.
- Road to Ais Ais
- Entering Ais Ais Park
We reached Ais Ais late in the afternoon and pitched our tent.
The condition of Ais Ais is not too bad. It is not perfect but I have seen worse. At least it is clean, have hot water and the swimming pool has clean water in it. The finer details lack, but I am not booking into a 5 star establishment so the long grass and other fancies don't bother me too much.
- Ais Ais pool
- Ais Ais
- Ais Ais
- Ais Ais
- Ais Ais
On Sunday 27 May it was time for the big hike.
We booked the first shuttle which left at 08h30. It is very convenient, you pay R150 per person and they take you to the start.
- Shuttle
- In shuttle
There was this German group who also went to hike, they traveled in this Citroen. They were also camping at Ais Ais the previous evening.
- German car
Ready for action, the team before we went down the canyon
- The crowd
- Elmi and I at Fishriver Hike
Going down was very steep. It took us about 2.5 hours to go down.
- Going down fish, Gavin and Athelia
- Going down the fish river hike
The first two days are very tough. You either walk in thick sand or climb over big rocks. That while your bag is heavy. Your bag do get lighter later on but then also the terrain gets easier. I think it would be good to do it the wrong way around so that you can end on the rough terrain with ultra light bag.
The whole hike you walk on huge rocks, round rocks, soft sand or lekker hard ground.
- Huge rocks
- Round rocks
- Sand
- Hard ground
We camped in the fish river canyon for 4 nights. Elmi and myself were the only ones without tents.
- Piet and Elmi's camp
- Camping in the Fish
- Camping
We crossed the river 28 times in total. Some of the crossing we could hop over but others we had to take off our shoes and walk through. The river crossings were very tiring
- River Crossing
We were very lucky with the weather. It was not very cold and we hardly ever had any wind. There was enough water in the river and the water was clean. So we could get water from the river all the time and drink it as is. Some of us had water bottles with filters on but most of us drank directly from the river.
- Water from the river
Food was mainly in the form of Pasta and Sauce in the evenings and Provitas in the morning and afternoon. Elmi took some Oats so Easy for breakfast, but hey, I must be really dieing before I eat that stuff.
- Food
We saw wild horses at two occasions
- Wild horse in fish river
The scenery in the canyon is awesome. It really is beautiful. On the 4th day we even had some clouds which helped to take better photographs. O ja, our little camera packed up on day 4 due to sand, so we could not take any further pics in the canyon, luckily I got plenty of pics from the others.
- Scenery in fishriver
- Scenery in fish river
- Fish river hike
Here we are at the well known Vespa
- Vespa
We finished late on the 5th day. We hanged up our bags in front of reception, took a group photo and then headed straight for the bar to have an ice cold Tafel Lager each. I am not a big bear drinker and even I had two Tafels.
- Finish
- Einde
The day after the hike we left for Luderitz.
Our first stop was at the Canon Roadhouse.
There are some very interesting cars and stuff at the roadhouse and is worth spending an hour or two. The coffee is good but the cake is nothing to write home about.
- Canon Road house
There was a crazy Italian couple who was touring Africa on this little Vespa, complete with pispot helmets and all. When they left they packed even more bags on the Vespa
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- Vespa at Canon roadhouse
- Canon Roadhouse
- Canon Roadhouse
- Canon Roadhouse
- Best vehicle at Canon Roadhouse
They even have a nice little camping site, with hiking trails at the back of the roadhouse.
They nicely converted the plaasdam into a swimming pool
- Canon Roadhouse camp
- Canon Roadhouse pool
- Canon Roadhouse ablution
From the Canon Lodge we followed the C12 to Seeheim
Next to the road we saw this lime kiln. The Holoog kiln was used in early 20th century. Opposite the road from it is a railway station where they loaded the lime onto the train.
- kiln
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Everywhere there were plenty of grass, the veld really look good.
- Gras
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- more gras
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We reached Luderitz at about 16h30 which did not leave us much time to buy what we needed and head for the camping site.
The camping site was the biggest disappointment of my whole trip.
About 15 years ago I camped there and it was the most wonderful camping site. Now there are two factories across the water which makes a terrible noise 24/7 and the camping site is neglected. With us there were the big total of 4 vehicles in the whole camp. Ablutions were dirty and not well maintained.
A cold wind was blowing but luckily we stay on the West Coast and have learned a thing or two about the wind by now.
So while everybody else were occupying the top stands with the nice view, we went for the bottom ones and hide behind a big rock.
- Camping at Luderitz
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- Luderitz camping site
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- Luderitz
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The next morning we left early because we had much to see and far to travel.
We first photographed some of the lovely old buildings in Luderitz.
- Nedbank Luderitz
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- Church in Luderitz
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Then we went to the Dias Cross. Luderitz also has a lagoon, very much like Langebaan, just much smaller. You have to drive around the lagoon to get to Dias Cross which is almost right opposite the camping site. There is a coffee shop at Dias Cross, but it was not opened yet, not sure if it is still opperational but it diod look as if there is still something happening.
- Road to Dias Cross
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There are very much nothing on that stretch of road, but that nothing is so beautiful. Even though there are nothing we did find some Springbok.
- Springbok
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- Dias Kruis
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- Dias Kruis
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- Dias cross details
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Niel! Sien hulle het ook "Palletjies" by Luderitz:
- Luderitz Lagoon
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We gave Kolmanskop a skip. It was already too late to take proper photographs (light too flat) and besides that the next tour was only due in an hour and half and I did not feel like paying R55.00 per person for something I have already seen before while not been able to take proper photographs. It would have been nice to see how they restored that main house because last time I visited we photographer the dilapidated house which are now beautifully restored.
Now check this out for "The Story of Africa"
Between Aus and Luderitz is this railway line. All I can think is that they started to upgrade the old narrow track to a wide track because in history books the railway to Luderitz gets mentioned.
The whole thing has been prepared, the area where the railway must be on has been lifted, culverts were build everything.
For 23km they packed the sleepers next to the line ready to be packed and then you get the railway tracks lying next to the road ready to be installed.
That must be about 70,000 sleepers.
They never finished it. The manufacturing dates on the sleepers are April 2001 and was manufactured by Griniker, that is where my dad worked before he retired.
The picture of the tracks below is only half the tracks, the other half were behind my back.
Everything is there, can can finish another 23km of the line which leave them with only 20 to finish it to Luderitz, but here it has been for 11 years now.
- Sleepers
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- Railway tracks
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Just before Aus we visited the "Wild Horses"
They are so wild that I walked around between them and they did not even move. Not even the Hilux scared them as they were standing all over the parking area.
There are hundreds of them and they really do not look very good nor very happy.
My personal opinion is that because they now get water and food they are not wild anymore and secondly nature cannot take its cause anymore and there are too many of them. It is believed that they originate from horses left behind by military forces in the first world war. So if the same family has been breading among others for almost hundred years you will understand why they don't look very good.
- Wild horses
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- Wild Horses
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- Wild horses
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A nice tree on the way to the Wild Horses
- Tree
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There is not much going on in Aus. There is one huge guest house with restaurant which seems to be doing well, besides that there is not much going on.
The church at Aus
- Aus Church
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Outside Aus you find the remains of the Prisoner of War camp.
This sign tells the story
- POW camp at Aus
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From Aus we headed South towards Rosh Pinah.
we saw lots of Springbok, Ostriches, and Eland and Gemsbok next to the road
- Gemsbok
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We reached Rosh Pinah at about 14h30 and headed for the Spar to buy meat for the evening, BUT, the Spar was already closed.
The only other option were the "U-Save" which did not have meat and some dodgy "market" at the garage of which the meat looked more like horse meat. So we decided to rather eat what was left of our hiking food.
The road from Rosh Pinah to Noordoewer is absolutely beautiful. Part of it is next to the river, just on the other side of the Richtersveld National Park.
We crossed the Fish River where it goes into the Orange river and I took this picture.
- Fish into Orange
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We headed to
Amanzi River resort for our last night's stay.
We were delighted to hear that they do sell meat and boerewors at the office. So we could have a last braai for the trip.
Amanzi is a wonderful place and I would love to stay there for a couple of days on my next trip.
It is on the river and you often hear and see the fish eagles there.
Amanzi is 12km from Noordoewer
- Amanzi
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- Amanzi
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- Amanzi view
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- Amanzi camping site
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The next morning we had breakfast and headed back home.
I first filled up both tanks at Noordoewer before we crossed the border since fuel is about R2.00 per litre cheaper in Namibia than in South Africa.