Stuck in 4x4

Brolloks · Post by **Brolloks** » Wed Feb 06, 2008 9:47 pm

Can someone please give advise with the following problem. Lately, I have been struggling to get from 4x4 to 4x2. I do not use 4x4 as often as I want, but when I do and it happens it is hellishly frustrating. One of the more experienced owners told me it helps to let the vehicle roll forward slowly while trying to disengage - he had a similar problem on one of his Hiluxes. This seems to help, but not always. Is there a problem in the transfer case? (I replaced the oil earlier and the level is correct). I have not done the hubs since I got the vehicle. Oh, what also works sometimes, is I will disengage the hubs and drive a while, stopping regularly to see if I can get from 4x4 to 4x2. Eventually it just slips back to the 4x2 position when least expected. (please tell me this is not going to cost me plenty

I still need to do a suspension conversion...

Niel · Post by **Niel** » Wed Feb 06, 2008 10:05 pm

Brolloks wrote: Lately, I have been struggling to get from 4x4 to 4x2

Brolloks wrote:One of the more experienced owners told me it helps to let the vehicle roll forward slowly while trying to disengage - he had a similar problem on one of his Hiluxes.

Had similar problems and also added gearbox oil but that did not do the trick. Did the shifting while driving and that worked although it still struggled some times. Then spoke to some chaps like Bosvark that owned a SFA for some time and they confirmed that theirs does the same. I don't know what the problem is and I will follow this theread to see what the problem is. Hope you get it resolved with little to no cost.

Post by **CasKru** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 6:21 am

Hi. I've also got a SFA and it's doing the same. There is a way around it though. When moving from 4H to 2H you do not have to stop. So while driving at 10 - 20 km/h drive in zig zags (hubs must be locked) while pushing the tranfer gearlver forward. This always works for me. m2cw

Cookie Monster · Post by **Cookie Monster** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 6:27 am

HI Guys

This is normal for these vechiles and there is nothing wrong with it when the need comes to return to 4x2 simply reverse about 5m and she will slip back into 4x2. It is because the transfer case sort of loads up and there is not enough free play so to speek and stops her from returning to 4x2

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 8:12 am

Bingo Cookie Monster... It happened to all my 4x4s as well, and from my Land Rover days I learnt to always reverse a few meters to "unwind" the transfer case. If you think a Hilux is bad, try the older Landies

On second thoughts, just take my word for it...

TopHilux Hilton · Post by **TopHilux Hilton** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 8:34 am

Yup, I also reverse sometimes. It does help. It only gets stuck occasionally though.

stevefourie · Post by **stevefourie** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 8:41 am

Had the same problem on my 92 2.2 added 500ml of prolong to the transfer box.
Problem gone, smoother than ever.

Post by **CasKru** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 10:19 am

Had the same problem on my 92 2.2 added 500ml of prolong to the transfer box.
Problem gone, smoother than ever.

But wouldn't that viscosity in the oil cause damage?

stevefourie · Post by **stevefourie** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 1:07 pm

I spoke to the guy's at prolong and they assured me that it will only benefit the box.
I have added it to my engine oil both diff's and the gearbox. I also did this on my previous KZ TE and I ran it like that for almost three years. I add prolong everytime I replace my oil..

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 1:22 pm

I also bought prolong and my wife smiled for a week

Doctor V · Post by **Doctor V** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 1:26 pm

Mine also had problems i.e. very difficult to switch back from 4H to 2H. Spent past holiday driving to different fishing spots and used 4H most of the time. Back on tar just stopped and engaged 2H without problems.

Post by **CasKru** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 1:31 pm

[quoteMine also had problems i.e. very difficult to switch back from 4H to 2H. Spent past holiday driving to different fishing spots and used 4H most of the time. Back on tar just stopped and engaged 2H without problems. ][/quote]
Did you also add prolong?

I also bought prolong and my wife smiled for a week

Jy weet mens kry 'n generiese weergawe van prolong genaamd Macoxaflop. Wel that is what I've heard. Never needed to add prolong do make my diff work better

igundane · Post by **igundane** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 2:38 pm

mine seems to do the same, not only did the prolong work wonders for the bakkie, but it seems to have taken that horrible "whining" noise away that my wife used to make!

Post by **CasKru** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 2:55 pm

but it seems to have taken that horrible "whining" noise away that my wife used to make!

Note to self... Add prolong to the diff immidiately

Post by **CasKru** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 2:57 pm

I spoke to the guy's at prolong and they assured me that it will only benefit the box.

Steve, Kry mens prolong spesifiek vir ratkaste/diffs of gebruik mens die wat jy in die engine gooi?

Brolloks · Post by **Brolloks** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 3:15 pm

Thanx for all the advice, guys. Seems like rolling back for about 5 metres is the simplest solution if it will work well. But I still have this concern: this is a helluva compromise. Do you never get mad with frustration when this happens, because if 'everything keeps going right' and you've checked the lube levels, then you don't expect to struggle with this sort of thing. Driving and maintaining a 4x4, any 4x4, is expensive enough.

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 3:24 pm

CasKru wrote: Jy weet mens kry 'n generiese weergawe van prolong genaamd Macoxaflop.

I thought the generic version is called KY Jelly. It doesn't enhance your diff's performance but is lubricates well for a longer whine-less journey

Post by **CasKru** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 3:29 pm

It doesn't enhance your diff's performance but is lubricates well for a longer whine-less journey

Probably when your on all four wheels

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 4:00 pm

Brolloks wrote:Do you never get mad with frustration when this happens, because if 'everything keeps going right' and you've checked the lube levels, then you don't expect to struggle with this sort of thing. Driving and maintaining a 4x4, any 4x4, is expensive enough.

Naaaahhhh I just chill out, roll back a few meters, stop to unlock the hubs, sit back and relax... and enjoy the scenery... :? :D

stevefourie · Post by **stevefourie** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 4:57 pm

Hi Cascru
There are two types one for engine and one for gearbox and diff.

Post by **CasKru** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 5:04 pm

Thanks Steve.

Ouarzazate · Post by **Ouarzazate** » Sat Feb 09, 2008 7:11 pm

It also helps to accelerate gently, then take foot off accelerator and at that moment slip it to 2H. But I once saw one that altogether refused to disengage. Turned out to be something that could be repaired from the gearlever side, a clip or something that broke.

Brolloks · Post by **Brolloks** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 8:21 am

Can any of the ou manne tell us if this topic was discussed earlier? It seems this is a common problem from the inputs on this thread - has Toyota ever made any comments about this?

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 8:25 am

I still maintain that it is not a problem as such, but a normal consequence of the axles "winding up" in the transfer case.

:D

Post by **CasKru** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 8:29 am

I still maintain that it is not a problem as such, but a normal consequence of the axles "winding up" in the transfer case.

I'm with Kaspaas on this one :)

Brolloks · Post by **Brolloks** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 7:40 pm

OK, you've convinced me to accept this as normal. I'll get some Prolong for the transfer case and who knows, maybe the whining from the passenger seat will also disappear...

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Tue Feb 12, 2008 6:12 am

Brolloks wrote:maybe the whining from the passenger seat will also disappear...

For that I can recommend a good crack filler like Polyfilla...

Brolloks · Post by **Brolloks** » Tue Feb 12, 2008 4:30 pm

Kaspaas
Just make sure you put it in right crack, otherwise you really are going to need that Prolong!!!

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Tue Feb 12, 2008 5:57 pm

Julle ouens moenie so met julle monde vol kos praat nie

TopHilux Hilton · Post by **TopHilux Hilton** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 12:38 pm

After the weekend mine is stuck SOLID now. Tried everything, but nothing helped....

Kagiso · Post by **Kagiso** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 12:48 pm

You are using the wrong transmission oils ... get the spec from Gearmax and pay more and stick to that make of oil... end of gagga.
[I had the same problem on BRUTUS ... so, manne moenie TE sleg voel nie. Dit kom die beste van opns oor :? ]

Fireman · Post by **Fireman** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 1:19 pm

The gate on the transfer lever rust and then bends- that leads to a stuck lever. Not expensive to repair, but the gearbox has to come out.

Nardus · Post by **Nardus** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 8:49 am

Reverse so paar meter of maak die rathefboom oop in die cab en gebruik skroewedraaier en skuif die plaatjies weg ja redelike werk

Kagiso · Post by **Kagiso** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 10:58 am

Fit NISSAN drive train ... or better still : GET a Nissan..

OK - Try this: Re-engage 4wd LOW range [activate difflock if you have one.] drive fwd in a STRAIGHT line for Â± 20 - 30 meters. stall the vehicle dead [no clutch, just footbrake]
NOW disengage everything, reverse back straight to where you started [in 2wd H/ Reverse]
Now - pull away in 2nd gear - accelllerate up to Â± 4000RPM and let go of the accellerator pedal [fast] (ruk hou voet weg) NB NB NB GEEN koppelaar [NO CLUTCH] let it roll till it stops or vrek or stalls
If 4x4 still not disengaged, you have a problem in your transefr case - Take it to Sarel Delport [Booysesn, JHB]
Sterkte

Ek sÃª nog: Koop NISSAN !!!!

JBurger · Post by **JBurger** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 11:47 am

Kagiso wrote:Fit NISSAN drive train ... or better still : GET a Nissan..
OK - Try this: Re-engage 4wd LOW range [activate difflock if you have one.] drive fwd in a STRAIGHT line for Â± 20 - 30 meters. stall the vehicle dead [no clutch, just footbrake]
NOW disengage everything, reverse back straight to where you started [in 2wd H/ Reverse]
Now - pull away in 2nd gear - accelllerate up to Â± 4000RPM and let go of the accellerator pedal [fast] (ruk hou voet weg) NB NB NB GEEN koppelaar [NO CLUTCH] let it roll till it stops or vrek or stalls
If 4x4 still not disengaged, you have a problem in your transefr case - Take it to Sarel Delport [Booysesn, JHB]
Sterkte

Ek sÃª nog: Koop NISSAN !!!!

If you did not have a real problem until this point, you will now have one, or two,,, or three.

O and if you realy want to drive a soft vehicle, rather buy a Prado, it feels soft but it is NOT!.

Spook · Post by **Spook** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 11:06 am

Hierdie is 'n praktiese probleem van 'n 4x4 sonder 'n derde diff. Die sisteem wen op agv die verskil in die omtrek van die voor- en agterwiele. Omdat die agterwiele normaalweg die bakkie trek slyt hulle vinniger en dan is jou voorwiele groter. In die sagte sand kan die voorwiele gly in die sand om saam te werk met die verskil, maar as jy op harde grond kom dan kan die voorwiele nie kompenseer nie en wen die stelsel op en kry jy dit nie uit 4x4 nie. Al wat jy moet doen is om so 5 - 10 m te 'reverse', dan sal die voertuig uit 4x4 kom. Dis waarom mens moet oppas om nie sommer jou 4x4 in 4x4 op 'n harde pad moet ry nie. Dit help ook nie om die groter bande agterop te sit nie, want dan gaan jy vind dat jou 4x4 nie so lekker in die sand ry nie.....

TopHilux Hilton · Post by **TopHilux Hilton** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 11:09 am

My selector shaft jumped out. Took me 10 minutes to fix.

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 1:21 pm

The main cause for wind up is not really different sized tyres so much as it is the wind up that occur as the front and rear wheels follow different (longer and shorter) tracks when your vehicle turns.

If you turn sharply on a harder gravel surface you will actually hear the inner rear wheel spin on the gravel as you turn. It is also the reason why the vehicle's turning circle on firmer surfaces might be larger than on softer surfaces with less traction, as the wind up / lack of centre diff tries to push the vehicle straight.

I tested this now on more than one SFA Hilux (my red van (when it still worked

), Limey, Bulldog and Loui's van), if you move the transfer lever to 4H when the vehicle is still stationary and it does not want to go past 4H to 2H, all you do is apply some forward pressure to the lever while slowly releasing the clutch, and within a meter or 5 the lever will go to the 2H position. If you check the manual it shows that you are allowed to go from 4H to 2H without stopping (below 5km/h IIRC) and without pressing the clutch pedal.

Brolloks · Post by **Brolloks** » Wed Aug 12, 2009 2:16 pm

Bennie, tnx for all the advice. I have tried the rolling back 5-10 metres trick a few times and it really works.

Dadz Toy BFI · Post by **Dadz Toy BFI** » Wed Aug 12, 2009 2:54 pm

Brolloks wrote:Bennie, tnx for all the advice. I have tried the rolling back 5-10 metres trick a few times and it really works.

This Invaluable Tip is right up there with the 20ltr Reserve Tank Fact

Should be etched into the rear view mirror of ever SFA Hilux

(like the yanks: "Objects appear closer......") Tip

sir shrek · Post by **sir shrek** » Wed Aug 12, 2009 3:08 pm

hey brollocks i had a problem were mine would not return to 2h at all and started investigating.
After a few beer and some swearing i undid the bolts ontop of the gearbox to remove the low range selecter lever just to see how simple my problem was. At the end of the selecter is a small knob like flatened steel ball type of thing. This thing was warn out a bit and slipped passed the two selecter levers wich goes into the transfer case. a bit of welding and a bit of grinding and it works like a charm. hope this helps.

Brolloks · Post by **Brolloks** » Wed Aug 12, 2009 3:35 pm

Hi Dadz
Excuse my ignorance, but what is the 20L reserve tank fact that I need to learn?

Post by **luxman** » Wed Aug 12, 2009 3:38 pm

This Invaluable Tip is right up there with the 20ltr Reserve Tank Fact

Tell me more about the 20 ltr reserve tank.

Dadz Toy BFI · Post by **Dadz Toy BFI** » Wed Aug 12, 2009 5:25 pm

When your Lux Fuel Guage shows E :arrow:

You still have 20 Ltrs in the tank

(An SFA has a 65 Ltr Tank; though the gauge only records 45 ltrs)

Many a man hath been caught ought by this one (see Article in the current edition of SA4x4 - "No Fuel at top of Sani Pass")

Post by **LouisZ** » Thu Aug 13, 2009 12:42 am

Get inside the Bakkie, take off your gearknob & 4x4 selector knob(Turn them loose) Remove the the 6 screws that keep the plate and rubber cover into postion, then remove. Now you will see the selector(4x4) tower. This is kept in plce with 4 x size 12 bolts, unscrew the bolts, remove the 4x4 selector handle. Look inside, you will see 2 rods with rectangular holes in it what match the underside of the selector. These rods let you select between 2H, 4H, N and 4 L. Take Q20 or anti rust lubricant ans spray the daylights out of these rods as far as you can. Take the selector handle, turn it upside down and spray the ball. Put back and you wont believe how easy it is to select 4x2 to 4x4 and back again.

These rods almost never get oil and rust, then get sticky and later do not move.

I will try to take some pic again tommorow and post them, it is easy to to, already done mine.

Louis

Brolloks · Post by **Brolloks** » Thu Aug 13, 2009 10:38 am

Louis
Tnx, this seems like good advice and something that can be done between eleven o'clock tea and the rugby on Saturday

:D

Mountain Man · Post by **Mountain Man** » Thu Aug 13, 2009 1:48 pm

Brolloks wrote:Do you never get mad with frustration when this happens, because if 'everything keeps going right' and you've checked the lube levels, then you don't expect to struggle with this sort of thing. Driving and maintaining a 4x4, any 4x4, is expensive enough.

One thing you will notice is that it is harder to shift the 4WD selection lever once you are on tar or a hard surface. So what I always try and do is shift back to 2H where the surface is still a bit loose. You will find that you don't get the transmission and diff windup which makes it difficult to disengage the selection lever.

Brolloks · Post by **Brolloks** » Thu Aug 13, 2009 3:35 pm

Shrek
Tnx for the advice - will check that next time I have a few spare minutes to fool around in the garage. Will also make sure everything is well lubed - most things in life work better with a little lubrication...

:D

Kagiso · Post by **Kagiso** » Fri Aug 14, 2009 1:28 am

Nee wat Brolloks - kry vi jou 'n NISSAN - jy sal ander probleme he maar nie waar jou 4x4 vassit nie ..

Ernstig - Die enigste 'regte' manier is om paar meter terug te rol - behoort 99% vd tyd dan sommer uit te glip ...
wag ou wag nou wag wag nou Cas ... osn praat van die man se bakkie hier ...
Die rede - dink ek - hoekom di ebakkies dit doen is dat die 'tolleransies' in daardie ewenaar en in die ratkas en oordra kas bae akkuraat is - "very little play there'" - om in 4x4 te beweeg veral in laestrek plaas baie stremming op die kontak punte ortal en di eysters sit dan bikki vas aanmekaar - as jy die stremming in di eander rigting beweeg ... einde van probleem.
een van die oorsake is dat ons maar ammal bikki sondig en MEER krag gebruik as wat b\nodig is om deur of oor 'n hindernis te kom.

Spleffoute ??? waffer splevoute ?? en wie wil tel ?

Brolloks · Post by **Brolloks** » Fri Aug 14, 2009 8:09 am

Kagiso
Ja, die terugrol vir so tussen 5-10 meter werk goed, maar dis seker ook raadsaam om seker te maak dat die rathefbome en al hulle goeters goed geolie/ geghries is (verskoon maar, ek ken nie al die regte name in enige taal nie

)
Sal die naweek bietjie loer wat daar onder daai coverplate en skroewe aangaan...