Clutch question
- louis fourie
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Clutch question
This question is not on a Hilux, but it is still a Toyota . My Avanza's clutch is acting up. I can get it into gear....sometimes and sometimes it just refuses. I had a look at the master cyliner, which is under the dash , and it doesn't seem to leak. The slave cylinder is also not leaking, will double check it in the next few minutes. It is not slipping...put bricks in front of the wheels and try to pull away in 5th. It pulls dead. What else can I check??
Hoor graag julle opinies
Hoor graag julle opinies
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Re: Clutch question
OK, Slave Cylinder dry
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Re: Clutch question
Replace brakefluid and bleed system properly and see if you still have the problem.Just my2c
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Re: Clutch question
DawieThe Legend wrote:Replace brakefluid and bleed system properly and see if you still have the problem.Just my2c
Dankie, maar ek het dit reeds gedoen. By die master cylinder is daar 'n bietjie verstelling. Ek het net die "free play" weg gestel. Ek sal sien wat hy more oggend doen.
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Re: Clutch question
Louis, if you have plenty of 'clutch' at the pedal (clutch pedal feels firm right from close to the top), then it could be that the spigot bearing is playing up. If this bearing is busy seizing, no matter how good the clutch, the spigot shaft will still be forced to overcome the drag of the gearbox and spin along with the motor. This will result in difficulty selecting gears while stationary, but will be a lot easier if the vehicle is rolling (like while driving). If it seizes completely you will have no clutch action at all.
What happens if you engage first gear with the clutch depressed before you start the motor, and then start it?
What happens if you engage first gear with the clutch depressed before you start the motor, and then start it?
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Re: RE: Re: Clutch question
Oom AndyMud Dog wrote:Louis, if you have plenty of 'clutch' at the pedal (clutch pedal feels firm right from close to the top), then it could be that the spigot bearing is playing up. If this bearing is busy seizing, no matter how good the clutch, the spigot shaft will still be forced to overcome the drag of the gearbox and spin along with the motor. This will result in difficulty selecting gears while stationary, but will be a lot easier if the vehicle is rolling (like while driving). If it seizes completely you will have no clutch action at all.
What happens if you engage first gear with the clutch depressed before you start the motor, and then start it?
Wanneer die kar nie in rat wil gaan nie en ek sluit hom af, sit in rat en dan start dan kan ek voel dat daie clutch klaar half ge-engage is, m.a.w. hy begin loop.
Die slave cylinder is heeltemal droog, maar ek dink master cylinder kan 'n probleem wees. Daar is soveel ghries aan die onderkant by die pedale dat ek nie seker is of die master cylinder lek nie. Die remvloeistof se vlak bly wel konstant. Ek kry ook die gevoel dat die gearbox moet uit sodat ek kan sien wat daar binne aangaan.
Dankie vir die raad
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Re: Clutch question
Hi Louis ratkas moet maar uit en nuwe clutch kry al ń paar sulke gevalle gehad
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Re: Clutch question
Ongelukkig stem ek saam - boks moet uit.
Louis, ek glo nie dis 'n master of slave silinder probleem nie, veral as die vlak nie daal en die slave droog is.
Na my mening is dit een van twee moontlikhede, spigot / pilot bearing soos bo genoem of dalk die pressure plate self wat groet. Ander moontlikhede soos master / slave wat nie reg werk nie, dislodged clutch fork of die koppelaar plaat self, is maar skraal.
As jy die moeite deurgaan om die boks uit te haal kan jy maar ter selfde tyd die clutch plate / pressure plate / release bearing en spigot bearing vervang (ter mits dit onlangs gedoen was, dan net die foutiewe onderdeel).
Louis, ek glo nie dis 'n master of slave silinder probleem nie, veral as die vlak nie daal en die slave droog is.
Na my mening is dit een van twee moontlikhede, spigot / pilot bearing soos bo genoem of dalk die pressure plate self wat groet. Ander moontlikhede soos master / slave wat nie reg werk nie, dislodged clutch fork of die koppelaar plaat self, is maar skraal.
As jy die moeite deurgaan om die boks uit te haal kan jy maar ter selfde tyd die clutch plate / pressure plate / release bearing en spigot bearing vervang (ter mits dit onlangs gedoen was, dan net die foutiewe onderdeel).
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.
Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.
And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!
Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.
And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!
- louis fourie
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Re: RE: Re: Clutch question
Dankie JanMCHILUX wrote:Hi Louis ratkas moet maar uit en nuwe clutch kry al ń paar sulke gevalle gehad
Is daar iets anders wat ek moet vervang terwyl die ratkas uit is, bv crank seal, spigot shaft seal aan die ratkas se kant?
Is daar enige iets snaaks itv die ratkas uithaal of is dit straight forward?
Ek vanoggend gou gekyk na die rathefboom knop. Hoe kom hy af?
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Re: Clutch question
Louis
Die rathefboom knop draai gewoonlik net af. Klink ook vir my jou clutch is klaar maar as die slaaf silinder leeg raak dan sal ek wonder waar die vloeistof heengaan. Dit moet êrens uitlek. Is die area om die "master cylinder" nat? Ek sou eers net die "master cylinder" vervang en kyk wat gebeur. Dit is makliker en goedkoper as 'n koppelaar vervang. Kyk ook of die stelsel 'n "clutch damper" in lyn het op die hidroliese lyn van die "master cylinder" na die slaaf toe en of die "damper" nie dalk remvloeistof lek nie.
Hoeveel kilos het jou kar op? Dit is in elk geval 'n goeie idee om die olie seëls op die ratkas en Kruk-as te vervang as die ratkas uit is. As dit later begin lek dan moet jy die ratkas weer uithaal en met Murphy se geluk is die koppelaar plaat dalk dan gekontamineer met olie en moet weer vervang word. Dit is nou bo en behalwe die "spigot bearing", "thrust bearing", koppelaar plaat en druk plaat. Ek verkies maar om oorspronklike Toyota olie seëls in te sit.
Die rathefboom knop draai gewoonlik net af. Klink ook vir my jou clutch is klaar maar as die slaaf silinder leeg raak dan sal ek wonder waar die vloeistof heengaan. Dit moet êrens uitlek. Is die area om die "master cylinder" nat? Ek sou eers net die "master cylinder" vervang en kyk wat gebeur. Dit is makliker en goedkoper as 'n koppelaar vervang. Kyk ook of die stelsel 'n "clutch damper" in lyn het op die hidroliese lyn van die "master cylinder" na die slaaf toe en of die "damper" nie dalk remvloeistof lek nie.
Hoeveel kilos het jou kar op? Dit is in elk geval 'n goeie idee om die olie seëls op die ratkas en Kruk-as te vervang as die ratkas uit is. As dit later begin lek dan moet jy die ratkas weer uithaal en met Murphy se geluk is die koppelaar plaat dalk dan gekontamineer met olie en moet weer vervang word. Dit is nou bo en behalwe die "spigot bearing", "thrust bearing", koppelaar plaat en druk plaat. Ek verkies maar om oorspronklike Toyota olie seëls in te sit.
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Re: RE: Re: Clutch question
Ek het die knop probeer draai, maar hy kom nie los nie. Die remvloeistof word nie minder nie. 175000kmMars wrote:Louis
Die rathefboom knop draai gewoonlik net af. Klink ook vir my jou clutch is klaar maar as die slaaf silinder leeg raak dan sal ek wonder waar die vloeistof heengaan. Dit moet êrens uitlek. Is die area om die "master cylinder" nat? Ek sou eers net die "master cylinder" vervang en kyk wat gebeur. Dit is makliker en goedkoper as 'n koppelaar vervang. Kyk ook of die stelsel 'n "clutch damper" in lyn het op die hidroliese lyn van die "master cylinder" na die slaaf toe en of die "damper" nie dalk remvloeistof lek nie.
Hoeveel kilos het jou kar op? Dit is in elk geval 'n goeie idee om die olie seëls op die ratkas en Kruk-as te vervang as die ratkas uit is. As dit later begin lek dan moet jy die ratkas weer uithaal en met Murphy se geluk is die koppelaar plaat dalk dan gekontamineer met olie en moet weer vervang word. Dit is nou bo en behalwe die "spigot bearing", "thrust bearing", koppelaar plaat en druk plaat. Ek verkies maar om oorspronklike Toyota olie seëls in te sit.
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Re: Clutch question
Nee dan is ek bevrees sal die ratkas moet uit kom. Ek het nie ander raad vir die ratknop nie. Miskien moet jy maar gou 'n oproepie maak na jou plaaslike vriendelike Toyota werkswinkel bestuurder. Daar is dalk een of ander truuk om die knop af te kry maar ek twyfel.
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Re: Clutch question
Remove the rubber boot on the gear-lever (just the bottom end), flip it up out of the way, have a look down there and you should see a small turret where the lever goes into the box. That turret is removable (usually just 3 or 4 bolts) - the whole gear-lever comes away with the turret. (The IFS might be different, not sure as I'm not famailiar with them.)
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.
Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.
And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!
Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.
And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!
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Re: Clutch question
The gearshift is cable operated just unclip the cables on the gearbox
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Re: Clutch question
Yip, het hierdie een gesien.MCHILUX wrote:The gearshift is cable operated just unclip the cables on the gearbox
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Re: Clutch question
Jan, dankie vir jou raad vanmiddag. Die starter en waterpypboute is verseker die moeilikste om uit te kry, maar o wee die terugsit gaan 'n ander swetsery aan die gang sit
Ratkas is uit
Die fout
Geen pilot shaft bearing
Geen seël aan die ratkas kant - Pilot shaft
Thrust bearing lyk en klink ook nie te lekker nie
Vervlakste gearbox mounting ook in sy m..r in
Ratkas is uit
Die fout
Geen pilot shaft bearing
Geen seël aan die ratkas kant - Pilot shaft
Thrust bearing lyk en klink ook nie te lekker nie
Vervlakste gearbox mounting ook in sy m..r in
- louis fourie
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Re: Clutch question
Volgende vraag:
Waar in die Rosslyn/Pretoria Noord omgewing kan ek my flywheel laat sny?
Waar in die Rosslyn/Pretoria Noord omgewing kan ek my flywheel laat sny?
- Knuppel
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Re: Clutch question
Is dit regtig nodig om die fly wheel te sny?
Wie gaan hom weer balanseer as hy klaar gesny is?
Wie gaan hom weer balanseer as hy klaar gesny is?
- louis fourie
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Re: RE: Re: Clutch question
Ek is ook nie seker nie. Hy lyk nog goed vir my. Sal hom net so 'n bietjie "skurf" maak met skuurpapier.Knuppel wrote:Is dit regtig nodig om die fly wheel te sny?
Wie gaan hom weer balanseer as hy klaar gesny is?
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Re: Clutch question
Glo nie eers dis nodig nie. Ek het nou al so n paar of meskien op 500 clutches gewerk in my tyd en ek sny en balanseer net die flywheel as ek sien of weet dat hy gewap het, of as ek sien dat hy highspots het, of die clutch shudder. Ek is nie bekend met die avanza nie maar weet ook dat party voertuie se flywheel kan jy glad nie sny want hy is gebalanseer saam met die krukas!
- louis fourie
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Re: Clutch question
So, Toyota quote my toe R3900 vir die clutch kit . Kry toe 'n Aisin by Goldwagen vir R1326. Ek kan dit so half bekostig
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Re: Clutch question
Bargan!
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Re: Clutch question
Mooi man. Aisin is goed. Is in elk geval OEM Toyota.
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Re: Clutch question
Ratkas is in. Alles werk en sal more 'n toetsrit vat
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Re: Clutch question
Dit is more vandag!
Hoop jou clutch werk nou reg?
Hoop jou clutch werk nou reg?
- louis fourie
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Re: RE: Re: Clutch question
So vêr werk allesKnuppel wrote:Dit is more vandag!
Hoop jou clutch werk nou reg?