Alternator problems....

Post by **CasKru** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 9:55 am

Okay so Sunday I made a special hand delivery to Johan at Chloorkop. And on the way there went through some muddy water barely axle deep. Coming back home the afternoon after MIL's party I saw the battery light is on (faintly).....mmmmhhhhh another regulator FUBAR I thought. Strangely enough when I rev the engine the light gets dimmer and almost dissapears.

Okay. Open the bonnet. Hose down the engine to cool it down quicker so I can replace the regulator (luckily I had a genuine Bosh on standby). Park the bakkie and start remove the old regulator and replace with new. Start the engine... have a look at the instrument cluster and light is out

Replace all the covers and do some other small things on the engine I wanted to do. Take it for a spin to see if all is well and the to the fuel station. After filling up when I start it again... back is the illuminated battery light. :evil: :evil:

Go back home. Open the bonnet and hose down the engine /alternator to cool it down. Start the bakkie to park it under the carport so I can work again and gone is the warning light.

So it seems like when the alternator is hot, the battery warning light comes on but when the bakkie has been parked for a while and you start it then, all is fine. Do I need to have the alternator serviced / re-conned?

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 9:59 am

Cassie het jy nie onlangs die alt laat recon nie?

Post by **george** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 10:06 am

Het jy hom gemeet al met 'n multimeter

Post by **CasKru** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 10:09 am

OOOOMS wrote:Cassie het jy nie onlangs die alt laat recon nie?

Jip... seker so 8 maande terug

george wrote:Het jy hom gemeet al met 'n multimeter

Ek het ja. As die liggie af is dan het hy 13.86v gegee en wanneer die liggie aan is dan gee hy 13.3v

Post by **george** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 10:23 am

Jip... seker so 8 maande terug

Het hulle 'n waarborg gegee?

Post by **CasKru** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 10:30 am

george wrote:
Jip... seker so 8 maande terug
Het hulle 'n waarborg gegee?

Kan nie onthou nie... en het ook nie meer die dokumentasie nie

As ek reg onthou was dit net so oor die R450 om te recon.

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 11:22 am

Ek het die selfde probleem gehad, kan veral as hy warm was het die liggie effens gegloei. Nadat ek x2 regulators in gehad het het hy weer 100% gewerk.

Dalk nie in die geval nie

Post by **CasKru** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 11:31 am

OOOOMS wrote:Ek het die selfde probleem gehad, kan veral as hy warm was het die liggie effens gegloei. Nadat ek x2 regulators in gehad het het hy weer 100% gewerk.

Dalk nie in die geval nie

Ek dink ek gaan hom maar weer uithaal en saam met die ander unit wat daar in my garage lê vat daar na Gordon Key and Son dat hulle altwee recon. At least dan as so iets weer gebeur het ek 'n backup.

Post by **Family_Dog** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 4:33 pm

Cassie, use your DMM to test the diodes in the Alternator. If your DMM has a "Didoe" setting, use that and compare readings - they should all be the same. Then do a resistance check as well, relatively loww-resistance reading in the "forward" direction, but should be close to infinity in the 'reverse' direction (swap0 the leads).

The test should be performed with all wires on the Alternator disconnected and you may also have to loosen one lead (the pigtail) of the diodes. But then you should check the soldered/screwed connections any how.

Its years since I've done this so I guess you might have to open the Alternator in order to reach the diodes.

-F_D

-F_D

Post by **Mud Dog** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 4:36 pm

(Eric posted before me, but .....)

Can't be rotor / stator windings that are 'burnt', otherwise you wouldn't get the full voltage when it's cold ... unless there is a break that makes contact when it's contracted (cold) an separates when it's expanded (hot) .... very unlikely, but possible. It's more probable that the regulator is playing up. I would swap it out with one from that other alt if you know that one works and see what it does.

Post by **CasKru** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 4:43 pm

Family_Dog wrote:Cassie, use your DMM to test the diodes in the Alternator. If your DMM has a "Didoe" setting, use that and compare readings - they should all be the same. Then do a resistance check as well, relatively loww-resistance reading in the "forward" direction, but should be close to infinity in the 'reverse' direction (swap0 the leads).

The test should be performed with all wires on the Alternator disconnected and you may also have to loosen one lead (the pigtail) of the diodes. But then you should check the soldered/screwed connections any how.

Its years since I've done this so I guess you might have to open the Alternator in order to reach the diodes.

-F_D

-F_D

Thanks Miester F_D

When I replaced the regulator I replaced it with an unmodified regulator (standard Bosh). Unfortunately my DMM met an untimely demise when I forgot to pick it up of the ground before moving the bakkie.

I did buy a cheap DMM jobbie and can't remember if it has the diode setting.

Mud Dog wrote:(Eric posted before me, but .....)

Can't be rotor / stator windings that are 'burnt', otherwise you wouldn't get the full voltage when it's cold ... unless there is a break that makes contact when it's contracted (cold) an separates when it's expanded (hot) .... very unlikely, but possible. It's more probable that the regulator is playing up. I would swap it out with one from that other alt if you know that one works and see what it does.

Thanks Andy. The regulator I swapped out I know was working 100%. This is the one I took out when I did the experiment with the cheaper one to add the diode to increase the voltage output.

And the symptoms on them are exactly the same.

Post by **CasKru** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 5:17 pm

Found this on another site and it sounds exactly the same as what is happening with mine:

Saasquatch wrote:So heres what it does when I start it cold all the voltage readings seem to be good and the battery light is off and it stays off until the car is shut off for the first time and then when I turn it back on the battery light goes on...Here are some voltage readings from the cold start and then the readings from after the car is hot and the battery light comes on.

These readings are from a cold start:
Everything off : 12.5V ish
Car running: 14.45V ish
Car running all accessories on: 14.15V ish

The readings from after it's hot:
Everything off: 11.94V
Car running: 11.69v
Car running all accessories on: 11.26v

Bad Alternator?

JayTheSnork wrote: 02-04-2010, 02:16 PM
yes, I'd lean towards that. it sounds like when the car is cold, the diode block is working fine; after it gets warm from current running thru it, one of the diodes in the diode block is breaking down and becoming open (not conducting).

not sure if you can just replace the diode block in the alternator or not, but that is where I would start.

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/archi ... 04068.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

So it seems that F_D had it right

Post by **CasKru** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 5:20 pm

Any body got an idea where I can purchase a diode pack for an alternator?

Post by **Family_Dog** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 7:11 pm

Diesel Electric? Assuming it is a Bosch. Otherwise, try any Auto-Electrician.

-F_D

Hi-Hilux · Post by **Hi-Hilux** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 7:25 pm

Ja Cassie jy moet vir die ooms luister, hulle weet van wat hulle praat...behalwe ooooms hy is nogie n oom nie lol

Post by **CasKru** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 8:50 pm

Hi-Hilux wrote:Ja Cassie jy moet vir die ooms luister, hulle weet van wat hulle praat...behalwe ooooms hy is nogie n oom nie lol

Hy't in elk geval nou die dag erken hy weet nie waarvan hy praat nie

Post by **Mud Dog** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 10:36 pm

Are the diodes not built into the regulator assembly?

kfxnando · Post by **kfxnando** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 10:43 pm

sometimes something small could be the couz of these small faults!!

would suggest two things to try!! before tacking the alternator to pieces to the test all the diodes like FD said!! could also be a diode breaking down under heat, however after a while it should pack up completely!!

when you insert the the regulator, there is a little copper spring tag thing a ma bob, check that the copper tag/spring is clean so that it will always make proper contact!! yes that is a contact!!
might explain why sometimes the repeated changing of regulators have solved similar problems!!

the other would perhaps be a bad soldered joint where the end of the coils are soldered to the rectifier, however by this time one would have the alternator in pieces!!

you are not too far from me, shout if you need help!!

could even be a bad earth on the vehicle, that when heat builds up, earth resistance builds up, and charge rate drops!! check this before stripping down the alternator!!
and come to think of it, have seen this before!!

good luck!!

MD posted while I typed, the diodes(rectifier) is a separate unit inside!!

Post by **CasKru** » Wed Mar 02, 2011 6:27 am

kfxnando wrote:sometimes something small could be the couz of these small faults!!

would suggest two things to try!! before tacking the alternator to pieces to the test all the diodes like FD said!! could also be a diode breaking down under heat, however after a while it should pack up completely!!

when you insert the the regulator, there is a little copper spring tag thing a ma bob, check that the copper tag/spring is clean so that it will always make proper contact!! yes that is a contact!!
might explain why sometimes the repeated changing of regulators have solved similar problems!!

the other would perhaps be a bad soldered joint where the end of the coils are soldered to the rectifier, however by this time one would have the alternator in pieces!!

you are not too far from me, shout if you need help!!

could even be a bad earth on the vehicle, that when heat builds up, earth resistance builds up, and charge rate drops!! check this before stripping down the alternator!!
and come to think of it, have seen this before!!

good luck!!

MD posted while I typed, the diodes(rectifier) is a separate unit inside!!

Thanks Fernando. I did most of the checks above. I replaced the alternator with an older one I had in my garage which was still working when I replaced it with this bigger one. I took the regulator I installed on the one that was faulty and installed it in the old one and then fitted the alternator to the bakkie and all is well again bakkie wise.

The alternator that is faulty was reconn'd about 8 months or so ago. I'm not to sure if the diode pack is one of the items that actually gets replaced when reconn'd. Except for the charge light problem the alternator is still in perfect shape, running smooth and silent when turned by hand.

So I'm going to start by replacing the diode pack....

This is how it more or less looks like

And here are the components of an alternator (a Bosh but not the model fitted to my bakkie)

Post by **CasKru** » Wed Mar 02, 2011 6:35 am

This is a diagram of the alternator

Post by **Family_Dog** » Wed Mar 02, 2011 7:02 am

Mud Dog wrote:Are the diodes not built into the regulator assembly?

They're built into the one end plate of the alternator, usually a pressfit into the metal body and with a tag or pigtail for the + terminal. They used to be available separately, in these modern days of throwaway components not sure if this is still the case. There should be replacement components available however, but not necessarily from a normal auto spares shop.

-F_D

Post by **CasKru** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 9:58 am

Okay so I replaced the diode pack this past weekend. I haven't fitted it to the bakkie yet but here is some pics of the components of an alternator for those that might be interested.

: New diode pack soldered on

: New diode pack soldered on

: The old diode pack

: The old diode pack

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 10:04 am

R89 for a platter for one... not bad!

Post by **CasKru** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 10:08 am

Mr_B wrote:R89 for a platter for one... not bad!

That's nothing... did you see it's only R16.95 for a glass brick

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 10:24 am

I wonder if a glass brick will keep rust away if I put one in the hilux door?

Post by **CasKru** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 10:37 am

Mr_B wrote:I wonder if a glass brick will keep rust away if I put one in the hilux door?

Some how I don't think so :)

The Legend · Post by **The Legend** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 12:07 pm

Hi Cassie

Dit lyk my jy kom mooi reg met die alternator.Kan ek myne maar bring vir n service?

/a

Post by **CasKru** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 12:12 pm

Lollie wrote:Hi Cassie

Dit lyk my jy kom mooi reg met die alternator.Kan ek myne maar bring vir n service?

Jy kan maar bring... maar wil jy hom werkend terug hê?

The Legend · Post by **The Legend** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:50 pm

CasKru wrote:
Lollie wrote:Hi Cassie

Dit lyk my jy kom mooi reg met die alternator.Kan ek myne maar bring vir n service?
Jy kan maar bring... maar wil jy hom werkend terug hê?

Ja asb Cassie,en daar moet ook nie spares oorbly as jy hom weer aanmekaar sit nie

Post by **CasKru** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:53 pm

Lollie wrote:
CasKru wrote:
Lollie wrote:Hi Cassie

Dit lyk my jy kom mooi reg met die alternator.Kan ek myne maar bring vir n service?
Jy kan maar bring... maar wil jy hom werkend terug hê?
Ja asb Cassie,en daar moet ook nie spares oorbly as jy hom weer aanmekaar sit nie

lol....

The Legend · Post by **The Legend** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:56 pm

CasKru wrote:
Lollie wrote:Hi Cassie

Dit lyk my jy kom mooi reg met die alternator.Kan ek myne maar bring vir n service?
Jy kan maar bring... maar wil jy hom werkend terug hê?

Ja asb Casssie,daar moet ook nie spares oorbly as jy hom klaar aanmekaar gesit het nie

Post by **CasKru** » Sun Mar 20, 2011 5:09 pm

Ek het toe nou my luiheid gelos en die alternator in gesit gister... en toe ek die drade op koppel is ek mos toe nou weer Tarzan en breek die "lug" af. Maak toe gou een uit koper en soldeer hom om te toets of als werk (die winkels was klaar toe). Als lyk goed en as die bakkie idle dan gee hy so 13.8v (eintlik te min want ek het weer die diode conversion gedoen). Wag toe maar vir die winkels om oop te maak vanoggend en gaan koop vir my toe ordentlike "lugs" en 'n crimping tool.

Haal die battery pool af, maak die draad los van die alternator strip hom terug toe waar nie soldeersel in gekom het nie, krimp die "lug" van en koppel weer al die drade op. Start die bakkie en meet die laai spanning.... 14.6v... daai is mos nou beter.

So.... maak seker wanneer jy enige eletriese terminale krimp, gebruik oordentlikke lugs en crimping tool, dit maak 'n masiewe verskil.

Maar nou om terug te kom na die heel oorspronklike probleem, die alternator liggie kom nie meer aan as die alternator warm word nie. So die probleem was lyk my 'n diode op die diode pack

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Sun Mar 20, 2011 5:13 pm

Dis nou mos sommer baie goeie nuus

Post by **CasKru** » Sun Mar 20, 2011 5:18 pm

OOOOMS wrote:Dis nou mos sommer baie goeie nuus

Is ook bly die probleem is nou gesort. Ek wil nou net daai backup alternator van my instuur laat hy gerecon word dat as die een oppak, ek daai een net kan opkoppel en daar gaat ons. Ek ken nou al die trick... ek change die alternator nou is so 30min

mikama · Post by **mikama** » Sun Mar 20, 2011 5:57 pm

Bly om te hoor, Ek het ook n nuwe altenator maak pas op my lux,Die altenator
skop eers in as ek hom so 4500rpm, hoekom maak hy so ?

Post by **CasKru** » Sun Mar 20, 2011 6:16 pm

mikama wrote:Bly om te hoor, Ek het ook n nuwe altenator maak pas op my lux,Die altenator
skop eers in as ek hom so 4500rpm, hoekom maak hy so ?

Ek weet nie so mooi nie. Dit kan dalk iets met die regulator te doen wees. Ek het al gehoor dat die Bosch regulators eers wakker word nadat jy hom eenkeer gerev het. Myne moet net so 1500rpm kry nadat ek hom gestart het dan is hy reg.

Hi-Hilux · Post by **Hi-Hilux** » Sun Mar 20, 2011 6:44 pm

mikama wrote:Bly om te hoor, Ek het ook n nuwe altenator maak pas op my lux,Die altenator
skop eers in as ek hom so 4500rpm, hoekom maak hy so ?

Ek sit met daai selfde probleem vandat ek die nuwe 4y ingesit het, hy het sonder altenator gekom en ek het die een wat ek vir die v6 gekoop het op die 4y maak pas en hy sit ook liggie af op 3000. As dit liggie af is kry ek ook 14v, maar ek het dit nou algewoont geraak. Bly jou altenator is reg Casman!

legend35 · Post by **legend35** » Sun Mar 20, 2011 6:55 pm

Cassie.Ek dink daai altenator is vandag goed getoets.

Post by **CasKru** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 9:33 am

Hi-Hilux wrote:
mikama wrote:Bly om te hoor, Ek het ook n nuwe altenator maak pas op my lux,Die altenator
skop eers in as ek hom so 4500rpm, hoekom maak hy so ?
Ek sit met daai selfde probleem vandat ek die nuwe 4y ingesit het, hy het sonder altenator gekom en ek het die een wat ek vir die v6 gekoop het op die 4y maak pas en hy sit ook liggie af op 3000. As dit liggie af is kry ek ook 14v, maar ek het dit nou algewoont geraak. Bly jou altenator is reg Casman!

Ek gaan bietjie kyk of ek 'n antwoord op die een kan kry.... daar moet tog iets wees wat nie sin maak nie.

legend35 wrote:Cassie.Ek dink daai altenator is vandag goed getoets.

Stem... en ek kan nou my tyre repair kit vir die eerste keer op die bakkie se bande gebruik. Het al plenty ander karre en bakkies se tyres reg gemaak maar dit is die eerste vir daai Maxxis

FUDGES · Post by **FUDGES** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 2:22 pm

Nou waar was nou alweer.

Post by **CasKru** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:03 pm

Nay ons was by Chimes gewees. Ek dink ek het iewers oor 'n plank met 'n spyker in gery want dit is 'n mooi netjiese klein koeëlronde gatjie

Hilux2Hilux · Post by **Hilux2Hilux** » Fri Mar 25, 2011 2:00 pm

Hi Cassie en die Res,

Ek het ook 'n probleem met 'n battery liggie wat aangaan.

Het hom nou al 2 x by Toyota gehad.

1 x by Toyota Auto Electrician.

En hulle is nou raadop.

Wel dit werk so.

Na so +- 30 km kom die battery liggie gewoonlik aan.

Ek het die toets gedoen met die battery liggie aan dan wys dit vir my 13.8V sonder ligte aan.

Met hooflige aan 13.6 V

Nou ek het 'n 3.0 D4D en die toyota klomp se die D4D se alternator kan nie reg gemaak word nie.

Die auto electrician het gese hy kan vir my 'n pirate part kry vir so R2800.

Wat stel julle manne voor?

Ek het ook ooooms se fred gelees oor sy alternator skoonmaak.

Derick

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Fri Mar 25, 2011 2:04 pm

Stel voor jy kontak Diesel Electric, en hoor wat se hulle:
0119551546 Krugersdorp, ek het nie ander nr's vir hulle nie...

Post by **CasKru** » Fri Mar 25, 2011 2:05 pm

Hilux2Hilux wrote:Hi Cassie en die Res,

Ek het ook 'n probleem met 'n battery liggie wat aangaan.

Het hom nou al 2 x by Toyota gehad.

1 x by Toyota Auto Electrician.

En hulle is nou raadop.

Wel dit werk so.

Na so +- 30 km kom die battery liggie gewoonlik aan.

Ek het die toets gedoen met die battery liggie aan dan wys dit vir my 13.8V sonder ligte aan.

Met hooflige aan 13.6 V

Nou ek het 'n 3.0 D4D en die toyota klomp se die D4D se alternator kan nie reg gemaak word nie.

Die auto electrician het gese hy kan vir my 'n pirate part kry vir so R2800.

Wat stel julle manne voor?

Ek het ook ooooms se fred gelees oor sy alternator skoonmaak.

Derick

Jy weet nie dalk wat die model nommer is van daai alternator nie. Ek kan nie dink dat mens hom nie kan service nie. Daai klink ook vreeslik baie na die diode pack wat se een diode gegroet het

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Fri Mar 25, 2011 2:12 pm

Die details van die D4D alt is hier:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9097" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Post by **CasKru** » Fri Mar 25, 2011 2:39 pm

Ek praat onder korreksie maar dit lyk my die diode pack se part number is 1 127 320 166

Bulletjie-3 · Post by **Bulletjie-3** » Fri Mar 25, 2011 3:56 pm

Cassie was dit n Toyota altenator wat jy ingehad het en toe stukkend was met die Bosch een spaar ?

Post by **CasKru** » Fri Mar 25, 2011 4:06 pm

Bulletjie-3 wrote:Cassie was dit n Toyota altenator wat jy ingehad het en toe stukkend was met die Bosch een spaar ?

Altwee is Bosch. Die een wat oorspronklik in my bakkie was het ek so jaar of twee terug vervang met een wat ek by 'n forum member gekoop het wat 'n upgrade gedoen het en toe die goed spaar gehad. Die een wat ek by hom gekoop het is oor gedraad om 95A te wees in plaas van 55A standaard (ek dink).

So ek wil nou my oorsponklikke een vat dat hulle hom ook nou oor bedraad dat hy ook 95A gee dat ek 'n 100% spare het.

mikama · Post by **mikama** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 2:11 pm

Ek het my lux na n oto electrician gevat, die dash bord ligie moet die altenator triger om
te laai. Ek het nooit gekyk na die liggie nie, hy het hom net weer gekonek nou chage hy
hy van idling af en nie meer op 4500rpm nie
So leer jy na n nuwe batery en nuwe altenator verniet gekoop het

mervyn · Post by **mervyn** » Thu Jan 12, 2012 1:28 pm

(Had to do this again as the site was down a little while ago and post didnt go thru)

Guys here is my problem. Had my Lux EFIed and shortly after that noticed that the second battery was not charging. Have a NL battery system in. Also the main battery was repalced after the EFI and if I recall Louis told me the new one was a few amps higher than the old one. New one is a 652.

When I tested the charge rate I got 13.2v at the battery and 13.7v at the alternator. All tests were done whilst the engine was idling and there was no load from lights etc.

The guys at NL also told me alternator seems to be an issue as charge rate ought to be higher. They also said that the system only starts to charge the second battery if rate is more than 13.7v at the main battery.

So I decided to do the regulator mod. That didnt go well. After the mod the alternator was still at around 13.8v and then it went up to 14.46v for a few minutes and then fell down to 12.8v. There still remained a loss of .5v at the main battery. Desite revving and idling for a few minutes the rate never went higher that 12.8v. BTW I bought a new Bosch regulator and did the mod on that.

The next day the rate went up to 13.9v (alt) and 13.4v (main battery) but that didnt last longer than an hours driving and it went down to 12.8v again at alternator.

I changed the diode and the alternator is now around 13.9v and the main battery around 13.4v but not as much as the others guys have got after their mods.

Apart from changing the cable between the alternator and fuse/relay box next to the battery, what could be the other problems?

Could this a case similar to Cassie's diode plate? On that point Cassie, how much to buy a diode plate and from where?

Pse help guys.

mervyn · Post by **mervyn** » Thu Jan 12, 2012 1:29 pm

BTW guys alternator is a standard Bosch alternator.

Post by **CasKru** » Thu Jan 12, 2012 1:34 pm

mervyn wrote:(Had to do this again as the site was down a little while ago and post didnt go thru)

Guys here is my problem. Had my Lux EFIed and shortly after that noticed that the second battery was not charging. Have a NL battery system in. Also the main battery was repalced after the EFI and if I recall Louis told me the new one was a few amps higher than the old one. New one is a 652.

When I tested the charge rate I got 13.2v at the battery and 13.7v at the alternator. All tests were done whilst the engine was idling and there was no load from lights etc.

The guys at NL also told me alternator seems to be an issue as charge rate ought to be higher. They also said that the system only starts to charge the second battery if rate is more than 13.7v at the main battery.

So I decided to do the regulator mod. That didnt go well. After the mod the alternator was still at around 13.8v and then it went up to 14.46v for a few minutes and then fell down to 12.8v. There still remained a loss of .5v at the main battery. Desite revving and idling for a few minutes the rate never went higher that 12.8v. BTW I bought a new Bosch regulator and did the mod on that.

The next day the rate went up to 13.9v (alt) and 13.4v (main battery) but that didnt last longer than an hours driving and it went down to 12.8v again at alternator.

I changed the diode and the alternator is now around 13.9v and the main battery around 13.4v but not as much as the others guys have got after their mods.

Apart from changing the cable between the alternator and fuse/relay box next to the battery, what could be the other problems?

Could this a case similar to Cassie's diode plate? On that point Cassie, how much to buy a diode plate and from where?

Pse help guys.

Are you sure you connected the diode the right way round? Either the alternator is in need of a serious service or the new regulator you fitted is a dud.

The diode pack had different symptoms so I don't believe it's that. I bought a second hand diode pack from Battery Centre in Midrand. Think I paid R400 or so.

mervyn · Post by **mervyn** » Thu Jan 12, 2012 1:47 pm

Diode was correct as the silver band was on the side closest to the earthing hole. Alternator was checked by the auto electrician and he said it was fine. Also I checked diode on the multimeter before installation and it read 567.

Post by **Family_Dog** » Thu Jan 12, 2012 7:24 pm

What is the number of the diode you used, Mervyn?

-F_D

Post by **Mud Dog** » Thu Jan 12, 2012 10:09 pm

With that fluctuating voltage I'm inclined to think that you may have a bad connection / contact somewhere.

mervyn · Post by **mervyn** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 5:21 pm

Eric it is a 1N4007. I used this after discussing it with Cassie.

Andy since we changed to new diode it is stable but still around 13.9v at the alternator.

mervyn · Post by **mervyn** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 5:23 pm

Andy I know I am losing voltage due to the cable. I am planning to change it in the morning to a higher cable and check the connections. But straight out of the alternator should be a higher rate, like 14.3v?

mervyn · Post by **mervyn** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 5:30 pm

Eric this may be more up your alley....how do u calibrate a DMM? I have a cheap one but my friend has an identical one. When we were checking the voltage on the alternator we got different readings from the battery. Do they become inaccurate if the batteries in them are getting too low?

Post by **CasKru** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 5:54 pm

mervyn wrote:Eric this may be more up your alley....how do u calibrate a DMM? I have a cheap one but my friend has an identical one. When we were checking the voltage on the alternator we got different readings from the battery. Do they become inaccurate if the batteries in them are getting too low?

Maybe just take it to a battery centre. They will test the charging voltage for you free of charge

The Legend · Post by **The Legend** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 6:06 pm

Hi Mervyn

I got a diode from Cassie and modified the regulator.At idle speed the voltage on my battery is 14.66 volt .With my head , spotlights radios and fan on it reads 13.45 volts at idle and 14.58 volts at 1500 revs.

I also rewire the alternator(90 AMPS)and use a 16 mm wire direct from the alternator to the battery.You wll defenitely get an higher voltage reading if you link a 16mm or bigger wire direct from the alternator to the battery.

N:B Dont forget to put an inline fuse in the wire.