Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Discuss modifications on your 1979 to late 1998 SFA 4x4 Hilux here.
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Sifu-Lux
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Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

I have now decided that I need to overhaul the front axle as it has been dripping oil for a while. That is a lot of work, so I will make it worth my labour and go all out :mrgreen:

So, planned are the following to be done over the next month:

1 Remove the front axle and completely strip it and rebuild it. Diff is OK so no need to remove. DONE
2 Repair spring saddle perches as per Louis method DONE
3 Re-drill spring saddle perches to accomodate 35mm axle move forward DONE
4 Fit adjustable torque rod DONE
5 Shorten steering drag link DONE
6 Extend front prop shaft DONE
7 Sandblast and respray rims DONE
8 Fit Kumho 33x12.5x15 KL71 MT's DONE
9 50mm bodylift if necessary

As a start I am gathering all the bits and pieces I will need.

Have cleaned my spare front propshaft ready to go to the propshaft guys once I know how much longer it will have to be.
Front double cardon prop shaft donor.JPG
Took my spare torque rod and cut it in half. Removed 40mm and then threaded it with left and right thread. Threaded a matching piece of hex bar and had everything silver cadmium plated to stop corrosion.
Adjustable torque rod assembly.JPG
Adjustable torque rod assembled.JPG
Last edited by Sifu-Lux on Tue Nov 24, 2009 9:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by OOOOMS »

Looks very nice Andrew. Now it will 'blink' 4ever :thumbup:
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Made up a set of 50mm x 50mm OD aluminium body spacers in case I need them, or feel the need to lift the body anyway :D . Had them anodised black to stop them corroding.
50mm aluminium anodiised body spacers.JPG
50mm aluminium anodiised body spacers.JPG (24.12 KiB) Viewed 32029 times
I have ordered all the axle seal kits etc from Toyota on Monday, so should get them tomorrow. Worked out to about R 2050 with the 15% discount I haggled for. I don't really have the time or want to source pirate kits from elsewhere for about a R400 saving overall. I only want to do the axle once.

Ordered a set of Kumho KL71 MT's (R2020 ea fitted) and will have them fitted to once I have painted the rims which are currently in being beadblasted and primed. Will spray them at home with Acryline 2K black.

I will post the peekchaz (especially for Rich as I go :lol: )
Last edited by Sifu-Lux on Sat Oct 24, 2009 4:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Zantus »

Great Andrew, cannot wait to see it in action.

Will it be ready by 15 November?? We're going to Brakkeduine again and it would be nice to compare the performance against how it did 2 months ago in the dunes.
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Don't think I'll have it done by then Barto :(

Got the parts from Toyota that I ordered today for the axle overhaul
Axle overhaul seals Toyota 1.JPG
Axle overhaul seals Toyota 2.JPG
Also got the spare rims back from shotblasting and priming. Will probably spray them this weekend if the weather holds.
15_8 inch rims shotblasted and primed.JPG
15_8 inch rims shotblasted and primed.JPG (17.8 KiB) Viewed 32004 times
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Cookie Monster »

MM looks good I am jealious :!: I must pop round to have a look let me know when the axil is stripped I have to do mine and a mates 80 series cruizer.
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by legend35 »

This looks good ,will watch this tread. :thumbup:
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Justin, will give you a call when I have it stripped. Otherwise come spend a day and "help" so you can learn too :twisted:

Here are the parts (mainly seals) I bought for the overhaul of the axle. Will get the bearings from Bearing Man.

One gasket (# 43435 60011) is missing from the invoice as Toyota had no stock and would only get end November, so I'll make it myself.
Front axle overhaul parts invoice Toy YN67 a.JPG
I will post a full cost sheet for the project when I'm finished with info on part numbers etc. for other interested people.

Thanks to forum member Duwayne for his post viewtopic.php?f=67&t=1535&p=80501&hilit ... aul#p80501

and to Scooter for his post and nice assembly pics which I used at Toyota to get all the parts I needed viewtopic.php?f=67&t=3627

This made it a lot easier to cross reference everything and get the right parts :thumbup:
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Finished spraying the rims today with black 2K. Came out OK. Will let it harden for a few days.

What's the best compound to use to polish out small specs of dust in the gloss finish? Was not the best weather to spray in.
Wheels sprayed black with 2K.JPG
Last edited by Sifu-Lux on Mon Oct 26, 2009 7:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Cookie Monster »

Looking good :clap: Not sure on which polish though
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by CasKru »

Mags look great. Just one question though..... how many wheels do your Hilux have? :D:
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Doesn't yours have seven Cassie? :twisted:

4 of these are my old wheels I had on the Lux, and the other 3 were from the Lux I stripped (these were quite rusted) I thought I would have all the rims lying around beadblasted and then paint them. Now I have 3 spares :D:

So now I have 12 rims in total :shock:

Got my new brake discs and pads today
Hilux YN67 Front disc rotors and pads.JPG
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Picked up the wheel arch moulding kit (# 7587105735) from Toyota today. Decided I would need this with the wider tyres.

Now I have all the parts to start the project, so will fetch my new tyres on Saturday and probably start stripping on Sunday.
Toyota Wheel arch flare kit.JPG
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Numbnut »

Looking forward to seeing the progress!!!! :thumbup:
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Had a productive weekend :)

Went and had the Kumho 33x12.5x15 tyres fitted on Saturday morning
Kumho KL71 33_12_5_15 MT mounted.JPG
Then decided to fit the wheel arch fender flares. Went quite quickly, about 1 hours work. They look quite good and should assist with the dirt the wider tyres will throw up.
Wheel arch fender flares template for hole drilling.JPG
Wheel arch fender flares template for hole drilling.JPG (15.64 KiB) Viewed 31868 times
Fender flares fitted.JPG
Today I started stripping the front axle out and finished this afternoon. About 5 hours work on your own.
Front axle removal.JPG
Front axle removed 1.JPG
Front axle removed and ready for stripping.JPG
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Got some scrap racking today and modified it to make an axle stand to make it easy to work on the axle.

Fits perfectly :)
Axle ready for stripping on stand.JPG
Checked the spring perches quickly and you can see how warped they are. Will have to "Louis" them.
Spring saddle perch severely warped.JPG
Cut the draglink today and shortened it by 35mm. Rewelded and machined, ready to go.
Draglink cut by 35mm re-welded and re-machined.JPG
Draglink cut by 35mm re-welded and re-machined.JPG (15.8 KiB) Viewed 31850 times
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Today I started to strip the front axle.

Here is the front hub before starting dis-assembly
Front left swivel hub.JPG
First I removed the brake disk caliper (two bolts at the rear inner side)
Brake caliper removed.JPG
Then I removed the bolts holding the free wheel locking hub dial in place and removed the dial.

Locate the C shaped snap ring on the end of the sideshaft and remove it.
Free wheel locking dial removed.JPG
Then I removed the nuts and washers from the locking hub body. This leaves you with the cone washers which you then need to remove. After reading the many methods on offer via the internet to remove the cone washers, the method I found worked best was to spray them with penetrating oil, then using a brass drift and a hammer to hit the studs with a sharp smack one at a time. Going in a circular pattern from one stud to another. After about 5 to 10 smacks per stud, the cone washers started popping loose and could then be slid off the studs.

Now you slide the hub body off.
Locking hub body removed.JPG
Now remove the front bearing lock nut using your geyser spanner, then bend up the locking washer tabs, remove it, and then undo the bearing adjusting lock nut. Now you grab the disk brake rotor with both hands and slide it off the stub spindle. Be prepared to catch all the oil and grease mixture that may pour out if your axle has leaked as badly as mine. I had nice smelly bearing grease and diff oil mix :shock:
Brake disk and hub assembly removed.JPG
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

With the disk off, you see this
Brake disk and hub removed showing axle stub.JPG
Now I removed the knuckle spindle mounting bolts and the dust seal and brake disk dust cover
Dust seal and brake disk shield removed.JPG
Using a brass drift, I then tapped the knuckle spindle off the steering knuckle
Sliding off the axle stub from the birfield stub.JPG
Front axle stub.JPG
Once this is off you can then remove the complete birfield joint and sideshaft. Position one flat part of the outer shaft upward and pull out the birfield joint and sideshaft. Again, be ready to catch any leaking grease and oil slop.
Pulling out the birfield joint and sideshaft.JPG
Sideshaft assembly removed from axle.JPG
Once this is out, then remove the top 4 nuts that hold the swivel bearing cap in place. This also has 4 cone washers. Tap out the bearing cap from the steering swivel hub housing.
Top swivel bearing cap and shims removed.JPG
Last edited by Sifu-Lux on Sat Nov 07, 2009 9:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Now remove the bottom bearing cap nuts, bearing cap and shims. Keep the specific shims together with the same bearing cap and bearings.
Swivel hub parts sorted for cleaning.JPG
Undo the small bolts on the back of the swivel hub housing and remove the metal support plates, felt and rubber gaskets. Now you can remove the swivel hub from the axle. This is one really messy, dirty, crappy job :crazy:
Swivel hub housing removed - what a mess.JPG
Here is the axle end with everything removed and wiped clean
Swivel hub inner cleaned up.JPG
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

With all that messy work done, I did the other side :crazy:

Still being a sucker for more punishment, I stripped and cleaned the freewheel hubs
Free wheel hub assembly stripped.JPG
and cleaned and laid out the wheel bearings which I will be replacing
Front wheel bearings and lock nuts.JPG
Front wheel bearings and lock nuts.JPG (19.21 KiB) Viewed 31825 times
For info, the original wheel bearings are as follows:

Koyo Hi-Cap

Front inner wheel bearing: JLM 104948-N
Front inner wheel bearing outer race: JLM 104910-N

Front outer wheel bearing: LM 102949
Front outer wheel bearing outer race: LM 102910

Swivel hub bearings are:

Koyo TR 0305A (did not remove the bearing outer race, so can't see the part number)

All bearings and races looked in excellent condition after 238 000 km. Not a mark :thumbup:
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

I wanted to separate the brake disks from the hub to fit the new disks, but after removing the two retaining bolts I see that you also have to press out the wheel nut studs as these also hold the disk to the hub. Will have to get hold of a press, as I couldn't tap them out with a brass drift and hammer :(

I would hate to know what Toyota would charge you just to replace your disks :shock: . After looking at the new disks and seeing that the minimum thickness stamped on them reads 11.4mm, I checked my disks and was shocked. One was 7mm thick, and the other 9mm. The previous owners must have skimmed them on the vehicle well beyond the allowable minimum thickness.
Front brake disk with the two retaining bolts removed.JPG
Anyway time for bed. Tomorrow will be more part cleaning... :mrgreen:
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Zantus »

Don't damage the studs, they alone are about R450 for 12. I used the genuine toyota parts on my wheel spacers, because I didn't want to take any chances and they are also longest ones you can buy here in PE.
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Gave the wheel studs a good spray last night and again this morning with penetrating oil. After reading all the potential stud removal methods on the internet, it seems that the common concensus is to hit them out with a hammer :wth:

So I decided to "carefully" try again. Placed a spare wheel nut on the stud like so
Nut placed on stud ready for knocking out.JPG
then whack it like so with a piece of square bar and a hammer
Driving out the wheel studs one by one.JPG
About 5 very firm whacks per stud did the trick. Once you've got one out, you feel a bit better about the technique. With the studs removed (and the two retaining bolts) I tapped the bearing hub from the brake disk.
Hub separated from brake disk with studs removed.JPG
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

I needed to properly clean the axle outside in the garden, but it is too heavy for one person to carry, so I removed the diff pumpkin (good to check for dirt in the axle too) to lighten the load.
Dront diff pumpkin removed from axle.JPG
With that out I checked the inside of the axle. Very clean indeed, with no dirt visible. With the diff pumpkin removed, the axle can easily be carried around. I estimate is weighs around 25kg.
Inside of axle diff housing.JPG
With the axle moved outside for cleaning, I carried on washing all the small parts with engine cleaner. A real "#%!!!!" job.
More cleaning of the swivel hubs.JPG
Some 4 hours later and .... (and no, I didn't wash them in the pool :o: )
All major parts degreased and washed.JPG
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

OK, so last update before I go to bed :mrgreen:

Hope Pietpetoors doesn't need to buy a new server for all the pics :shh:

Decided to end the evening off by fitting the new brake disks. SWAMBO said I should consider putting my bed in the garage :roll:

I cleaned up the hub/disk mating faces with a wire brush on my electric drill, then painted the exposed metal casting pieces with rust converter.
Wheel bearing hubs cleaned up and rust treated.JPG
Applied a layer of Copperslip/Neverseize copper compound to the mating face
Copperslip applied to disk mating face.JPG
Then fitted the disk to the hub with the two retaining bolts. I will fit the wheel studs later.
New brake disk fitted.JPG
New brake disk fitted.JPG (23.95 KiB) Viewed 30826 times
I then took the time to inspect the recently cleaned brake calipers. Will definitely have to strip them and put in a new seal kit as the dust seals are shot.
Brake caliper in need of seal replacement.JPG
The last job tonight was to wash out and soak the Birfield / CV joints in paraffin. Will strip them next week and check the condition.
Birfield joints soaking in paraffin.JPG
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

I spent last night cleaning, prepping and spraying some parts. Tonight I tackled the Birfield CV joints. The sideshaft fits into the inner race of the Birfield joint and is held in place by two snap rings. The outer one you can see, but the inner one is inside the joint. This one has to be broken :shock: to get the sideshaft out of the joint.

I tried the brass drift with hammer method from the manual, but got nowhere fast. Method two, which worked, I got from a website somewhere. Place a piece of pipe in the vice. The inner diameter of the pipe should be just bigger than the sideshaft outer diameter. Now, take the Birfield joint and sideshaft assembly and place the sideshaft in the pipe. Lift it up in the air as high as you can, then let it go. The sideshaft drops into the pipe, but the Birfield inner race is too big to go in, and therefore stops suddenly. This shock breaks the inner snap ring (see photo below) and the sideshaft comes out. This took several attempts, but worked.

Below is the sideshaft separated from the Birfield CV joint, with the broken inner snap ring shown.
Using http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_G_1987_T ... _4302.html I got the part numbers I need.

Shaft inner snap ring: 43411B 90520-28036
Shaft outer snap ring: 43411C 90520-27091 (broken one)
Birfield with sideshaft separated .JPG
Birfield with sideshaft separated .JPG (23.44 KiB) Viewed 30813 times
Wih the sideshaft out, you can now remove the balls and the inner and outer races.
Removing the balls and cage from the Birfiled joint.JPG
Here is the whole assembly in pieces, after some initial cleaning. Off to the dealer tomorrow to get new snaprings :mrgreen:
Birfield joint assembly stripped for cleaning.JPG
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Cookie Monster »

Lots of PT but well worth it in the end :clap: :thumbup:
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by ThysdJ »

Great stuff Andrew, this is a great article!! Keep it up :thumbup: :thumbup:
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by chopper »

I really admire your "mechanical skills" and common-sense - maybe someday?!
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Post by Mr_B »

Great work man... don't forget to tweak the gangle pins while you at it!

mr b :thumbup:
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Mud Dog »

If you had to break the inner snap-ring to get it apart, how are you going to fit the new one if you assemble using your steps in reverse. There has to be a way to get them in and out without breaking. Surely there is a 'channel' to one side of the outer casing to allow enough 'tilt' to slip the balls out? :think:
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

chopper wrote:I really admire your "mechanical skills" and common-sense - maybe someday?!
And I'm an Electrical Engineer :o:

Andy, you do have to break the snap ring to get it out. It is a "sacrificial part", made to break. To get the sideshaft back into the inner race, you put the snapring on the end of the sideshaft, then compress it into its groove as if you were compressing a piston ring to fit a piston into the block. Slide the sideshaft end through the inner race. As soon as the shaft end comes out the other side of the race, the the snap ring pops out and expands, preventing the sideshaft from pulling out again. I'll take some pics when I do it.

Got my new snap rings today from Toyota. R 16 ea.
Got all the new bearings from BMG (Bearing Man) today too.

Spent some time this evening re-assembling the locking hubs. I must say, stripping them was a good way to learn how they work, and they are not that complicated to re-assemble (provided you have a good manual)

Tomorrow I will try to panel beat the spring perches/saddles back to factory spec :mrgreen: Just got to figure out the best way to do it.

Bretton, my gangle pins are still soaking. Will rub them with kryptonite when I'm ready :twisted:
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Today was caliper overhaul day :eh:

On closer inspection of the front brake calipers I found that the one caliper was missing all the piston dust seals and the dust seals on the other caliper were totally torn and trashed.
Both calipers are missing the anti-rattle springs :evil: Will have to get some from the dealer, or if someone can post a nice pic, I'll bend my own :) Ah, just found JohanM's post with a pic viewtopic.php?f=67&t=5173&p=56934&hilit ... ing#p56934
will try bend my own next week.

First I stripped the calipers. I used compressed air as per the manual to get the first piston out. It came out with a pop and I ended up covered in brake fluid. This method is not really advisable as it is difficult to control, and once one piston is out, you cannot really seal the cylinder bore to allow the use of compressed air on the others. I ended up using a pair of waterpump pliers on the front lip and twisting them out carefully. Took a while. The pistons and were in quite good condition, with only minimal rust pitting in some places near to top of the piston body. Poilished all the pistons up with 1200 grit waterpaper and washed them. Then painted rust converter on the rusty bits exposed to the outside of the caliper.
Front caliper pistons cleaned and de-rusted.JPG
The internal cylinder bores were in perfect condition.
Front caliper internal cylinder bores.JPG
After cleaning everything, I fitted the new seal kit. Coated everything with Red Rubber Grease. Assembly was a lot quicker than stripping.
Front brake caliper stripped for cleaning.JPG
Front brake caliper with new seal kit fitted.JPG
I then degreased the calipers and painted them black with etch primer /Jetmaster black paint and fitted the new Ferodo pads. All done!
Front calipers overhauled and painted with new pads.JPG
Last edited by Sifu-Lux on Sun Nov 15, 2009 2:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Still having a bit of energy, I reassembled the freewheel locking hubs. I needed the help of SWAMBO to get the one snap ring back that hold the freewheel hub body to the inner hub. She was not impressed having to hold "dirty greasy" things as she called them. I don't know what she was on about, they were sparkly clean with new, fresh LM grease :roll:
Rebuillding the freewheel locking hubs.JPG
Put the cover and dial on to the body and checked them for correct engaging and dis-engaging. All OK!
Freewheel locking hubs rebuilt and ready.JPG
Now I need to start the spring perch/saddle correction work. I have looked at this from all angles, and cannot come up with the best method to re-shape the saddles. I put the axle in the vice earlier, and then gave the saddles a few whacks with my square bar and hammer, but nothing moved. Tried "squashing" the saddle sides upright again in the vice, but no joy. Will have to think about this some more.
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

So I went and read Louis's post ( viewtopic.php?f=95&t=7412&p=81346&hilit ... ion#p81346 ) again. I had it backwards :wth: . With Louis's method, you need to hammer the middle high point down, not the bent lower ends up (which made logical sence to me as they are the parts that bend?). Anyway I'll go off now and hammer the Cr@p out of the saddles :shock:
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Zandyl »

Both calipers are missing the anti-rattle springs :evil: Will have to get some from the dealer
I am also missing one on my 2.7, got a price from the dealers.

R700,00 for one, so it's still missing

Sorry, read your post again, that is for the anti squeel plate
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Found an acceptable way of holding the axle in the vice and supporting the saddle on a piece of steel. Marked the high points and then smacked them down with my big hammer :thumbup:
Axle in the vice ready to panelbeat the saddles.JPG
When you beat the saddles flat with the hammer you can get the middle, unsupported area flat quite easily. The sides however need to have the high points massaged with an angle grinder, then dressed with a fine metal file to get the sides flat.
Spring saddle panel beated and ground flat.JPG
Once that was done I gave the axle a quick sand with a flapper wheel in the drill to remove any loose paint and surface rust, then painted the axle with rust converter. I then marked out the position of the new holes I needed to drill to allow for the axle to be moved 35mm forward.
New 16mm hole 35mm back on saddle.JPG
New 16mm hole 35mm back on saddle.JPG (20.1 KiB) Viewed 26189 times
Gave the whole axle a quick coat of black etch primer to neaten it up.
Flat saddle and new 16mm hole for axle move.JPG
It's my youngest daughters birthday tomorrow, so I guess I won't be in the garage much. Monday I will be cutting some steel flatbar to make the spring saddle supports, which I can then weld in place.
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Numbnut »

Very nice work, keep it up!! :thumbup: :thumbup:

Nice post and great read!!! :clap: :clap:
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Mud Dog »

Andrew, once you're done and the learning curve has flattened out, you'll be able to do mine over a weekend. How does next weekend sound!? :D: :wink: :wink:
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Andy, as much as I would love to, I couldn't live with myself robbing you of that deep emotional bond you would form with your front axle :mrgreen:
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Post by Mud Dog »

Sifu-Lux wrote:Andy, as much as I would love to, I couldn't live with myself robbing you of that deep emotional bond you would form with your front axle :mrgreen:
Been there, done that ....just getting too lazy in my latter years to be wrestling with axles! :wink:

Ah well, it was worth a try .... who knows, maybe one weekend I might just feel energetic enough (will have to stock up on Red Bull). :D:
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

The youngsters birthday is over, SWAMBO is cleaning up, so a good excuse to "disappear" into the garage to make some gaskets :D

Using the sheet of Flexoid gasket paper, I used the other gasket (Toyota was out of stock of this one and couldn't supply for a month) as a template, and cut it out with a razor blade knife. Fitted it to the spindle and trimmed to the correct shape. Then I used a hole punch and a block of wood to punch the required 10mm holes.
Making new gasket for hub spindle.JPG
Here are the two completed gaskets.
Two new hub spindle gaskets made from Flexoid.JPG
I made a quick drawing of the tool I want to make to use when fitting the sideshaft oil seals to the axle. It is reasonably difficult to ensure that the oil seals are driven in squarely as you have to work inside the ball end of the axle, so this tool will make it easier. Will get the tool made tomorrow.
Oil seal inserting tool sketch.JPG
Oil seal inserting tool sketch.JPG (11.65 KiB) Viewed 26374 times
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Cookie Monster »

Looking good mate :clap: :thumbup:
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Last night I re-inforced the spring saddles with steel flat bar. For my needs, the sizes required were as follows:

112 x 40 x 10mm Steel flat bar (2 pieces)
75 x 40 x 10mm Steel flat bar (2 pieces)
112 x 40 x 10 and 75 x 40 x 10 flat bat supports.JPG
112 x 40 x 10 and 75 x 40 x 10 flat bat supports.JPG (22.56 KiB) Viewed 26344 times
I then welded in the flat bars as below pics, then painted everything with black etch primer.
RH saddle support welded in place.JPG
RH saddle support painted.JPG
LH saddle support welded in place.JPG
LH saddle support painted.JPG
**EDIT today on fitting day. I screwed up here. I made the re-inforcement flat bar wider than the spring saddle. Definitely not thinking. Had to cut the extra width off with an angle grinder so the U-Bolts could be fitted. I suppose I am allowed one mistake :wth:
Last edited by Sifu-Lux on Sat Nov 21, 2009 9:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Once the saddle re-inforcements were done, I turned to replacing the studs in the axle that hold the diff pumpkin in place. The old ones were rusted and some nuts were seized on.

I first cleaned the gasket mating face, then installed the new studs, using Loctite retaining compound.
Replacing the diff fastening studs.JPG
Diff housing studs replaced and gasket face prepped.JPG
With the studs replaced, I put the diff pumpkin in the vice, and cleaned the gasket mating face. On close inspection of the diff, I found the one bearing retaining bolt head and a part of the backlash adjuster were rusted, so I had to clean them up. This is why it is important to engage the front locking hubs at least once a month and go for a drive to allow the diff to turn in the diff oil and keep it coated in oil :thumbup: (Which I obviously didn't do often enough :roll: )
Front diff gasket face cleaned for installation.JPG
I then had to make a gasket out of Loctite Ultra Grey silicone, as the paper gasket I bought from Toyota did not fit :evil:

The diff was then installed with new washers, spring washers and nuts, using Loctite thread locker.
New diff fastening nuts and spring washers.JPG
Diff installed with new grey silicone gasket.JPG
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

I got my oil seal inserting tool made today :D
Oil seal insertion tool with oil seal.JPG
Oil seal insertion tool with oil seal.JPG (23.09 KiB) Viewed 26344 times
The new oil seal fits nice and snuggly on the tool, ready for insertion.
Oil seal insertion tool with oil seal mounted.JPG
Here is the tool being used to install the oil seal nice and squarely in place. You don't need a tool like this, but it made the job super easy.
Oil seal being inserted into axle with tool.JPG
Oil seal being inserted into axle with tool.JPG (21.24 KiB) Viewed 26344 times
I coated the oil seal inner face with red rubber grease.
New oil seal installed.JPG
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Next job was to install the swivel hub bearing races. I cleaned the recesses and then put on Loctite medium strength thread locker to make sure they stay in place.
The bearing races were in the mean time in my freezer getting nice and cold to shrink them a bit and make fitting easier. I drove in the races with a hammer and a larger round piece of brass bar.
Swivel hub bearing recess cleaned.JPG
Swivel hub bearing recess cleaned.JPG (20.67 KiB) Viewed 26344 times
New swivel hub upper bearing race installed.JPG
New swivel hub upper bearing race installed.JPG (21.04 KiB) Viewed 26344 times
I then placed the new swivel hub rear oil seal kit over the axle ball end. It goes on in the order of felt ring, then rubber ring, then steel ring.
Swivel hub rear oil seal assembly on axle.JPG
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Last job for tonight was to put the new wheel bearings into the hubs.

I used the old bearing race to drive the new inner wheel bearing race into the hub. Worked great.
Installing the inner wheel bearing race.JPG
I then filled the hub cavity between the inner and outer bearings with Castrol WB grease, and greased the inner wheel bearing and installed it.
Inner wheel bearing installed and greased.JPG
The inner wheel bearing oil seal was then installed. Again I used the old wheel bearing race as a tool to evenly drive in the new seal.
Installing the inner wheel bearing seal.JPG
Inner wheel bearing seal installed.JPG
I then turned the hub over and installed the outer wheel bearing and race.
Outer wheel bearing installed and greased.JPG
Have just been accused of being anti-social by SWAMBO, so had better go pay some attention :mrgreen:
I did invite her to join me in the garage, but she declined for some reason :twisted:
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

So, Wednesday night I started to assemble the swivel hubs. First I cleaned up all the gasket faces so they were clean and shiny. Then I greased to swivel hub bearings with Castrol MS grease and installed them on the axle.
Installing the swivel hub bearings.JPG
I then placed the swivel hub in position and pressed the top and bottom bearing caps with their respective shims into place. Put copper grease on the cone washers (split dowels) and tightened the nuts up.
Swivel hub mounted on axle.JPG
I then fitted the swivel hub rear oil seal assembly (metal ring, rubber gasket and felt seal) and checked the bearing drag with a fish scale according to the workshop manual.
Swivel hub rear oil seal assembly installed.JPG
With that done I re-assembled the Birfield / CV joint race cages and balls and greased them up with MS grease. To install the sideshaft into the cage you need to place the Birfiled joint in the vice, then place the sideshaft end into the inner race until it contacts the first thin metal snap ring. You then need to compress the first snap ring (shown below) and tap the sideshaft into the inner race. Believe me, for this you need two people. Luckily for me, my dad happened to ring my doorbell at this point. Unlucky for him, he was about to get dirty :twisted:
Sideshaft - Birfield end showing new internal snap ring .JPG
Sifu-Lux....I will miss you
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Sifu-Lux
LR 4WD Full Lockers
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Posts: 636
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:46 pm
Town: Mount Vernon Illinois
Vehicle: GMC Sierra SLT Z71 (Used to drive a '91 SFA Hilux YN67R 4x4 ,Full OME, ARB lockers front and rear, Ford 3L V6, 35mm axle move, 33" General Grabber X3's and dual transfer cases....... Keep her safe Mud Dog!
Real Name: Andrew

Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

With the Birfield joints and sideshafts assembled, I greased the axle oil seals and sideshaft inner ends with a generous layer of Red Rubber grease, then slid the assembly into the axle tube. Remember the Birfiled joint housing "flats" must be at the top and bottom to get the joint into the axle properly.
Birfield joint and sideshaft inserted into axle.JPG
Now came the messy part ! Packing the swivel hub housing with MS grease. Pack with grease to 75% of the volume of the swivel hub.
Birfield joint with swivel housing packed with Castrol MS grease.JPG
I lot of cleaning followed (mainly of myself :lol: ). I then fitted the gasket I made earlier to the axle spindle shaft which bolts to the swivel hub. I used a bit of gasket shellac on the paper gasket.
Gasket installed on axle spindle.JPG
I then placed the spindle onto the hub and tapped it into position with a nylon hammer.
Axle spindle installed on swivel hub.JPG
Next to go on is the brake disk dust shield. As this is fitted to the spindle face without a gasket, I put a thin coating of copper grease on the mating faces.
Brake disk dust shield installed on axle spindle.JPG
Sifu-Lux....I will miss you
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Sifu-Lux
LR 4WD Full Lockers
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Posts: 636
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:46 pm
Town: Mount Vernon Illinois
Vehicle: GMC Sierra SLT Z71 (Used to drive a '91 SFA Hilux YN67R 4x4 ,Full OME, ARB lockers front and rear, Ford 3L V6, 35mm axle move, 33" General Grabber X3's and dual transfer cases....... Keep her safe Mud Dog!
Real Name: Andrew

Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

On with the show :mrgreen:

The paper gasket and dust seal go on next. Once these are on, the whole assembly can be bolted together.
Dust seal and gasket ready for installation on axle spindle.JPG
Dust seal and gasket installed on axle spindle.JPG
I then put a layer of wheel bearing grease on the dust seal lip, and onto the spindle shaft where the inner wheel bearing seal face runs. The wheel bearing hub assembly is then slid onto the spindle and into position.
Be careful not to let the driveshaft stub push the outer wheel bearing out when you slide the assembly on. Besides dropping the bearing on the floor in the muck, it may land on your toes :problem:
Wheel bearing hub installed on axle spindle.JPG
Wheel bearing hub installed on axle spindle.JPG (22.98 KiB) Viewed 26345 times
Now you can insert the thrust washer, followed by the wheel bearing adjusting nut. Here a geyser element spanner works well to tighten the nut. First tighten it quite tight, then turn the hub in the forward direction to make sure the bearings have seated properly. Now you loosen it a bit and then use a fish scale to measure the seal drag, the retighten and set the bearing preload as per the workshop manual.
Tightening wheel bearing nut with geyser spanner.JPG
Setting wheel bearing pre load with fish scale.JPG
Sifu-Lux....I will miss you
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Sifu-Lux
LR 4WD Full Lockers
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Posts: 636
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:46 pm
Town: Mount Vernon Illinois
Vehicle: GMC Sierra SLT Z71 (Used to drive a '91 SFA Hilux YN67R 4x4 ,Full OME, ARB lockers front and rear, Ford 3L V6, 35mm axle move, 33" General Grabber X3's and dual transfer cases....... Keep her safe Mud Dog!
Real Name: Andrew

Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

As the bearing preload is now set, you fit the locking tab washer, the the wheel bearing lock nut and tighten it. Re-check the bearing preload with the fish scale, then bend over the tabs on the lock washer.

After cleaning the mating faces, fit the freewheel hub body gasket, and fit the freewheel hub. I put copper grease on the cone washers again and then tightened everything up.
Fitting snap ring to shaft stub.JPG
In the photo above, you see a bolt sticking out of the driveshaft end. I used this to pull the driveshaft out a bit so the snap ring groove is exposed. The shaft stub snap ring is now fitted.
Snap ring fitted to shaft.JPG
Next to go on is the freewheel hub dial face and gasket. I coated all the sliding parts with a bit of MS grease then assembled the dial to the hub body. I replaced all the old mounting bolts which were a bit damaged and worn with stainless steel Allen cap bolts and stainless washers.
Freewheel locking hub dial installed.JPG
As it was then 11 PM, I decided to call it a day.
Sifu-Lux....I will miss you
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Sifu-Lux
LR 4WD Full Lockers
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Posts: 636
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:46 pm
Town: Mount Vernon Illinois
Vehicle: GMC Sierra SLT Z71 (Used to drive a '91 SFA Hilux YN67R 4x4 ,Full OME, ARB lockers front and rear, Ford 3L V6, 35mm axle move, 33" General Grabber X3's and dual transfer cases....... Keep her safe Mud Dog!
Real Name: Andrew

Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Today I got home at 16h15 and went straight to the garage, eager to finish this axle after two weeks of work. It looks like this overhaul job took about 60 hours of labour to do it properly :shock:

Anyway, all I had to fit were the brake calipers, and give the axle a quick touch up with some black etch paint.

Here are the calipers fitted with the new pads, and the anti rattle springs which I found on my spare front axle.
Brake caliper refitted with new pads.JPG
And ....... :thumbup: :thumbup: ALL DONE !!! :thumbup: :thumbup:
Axle overhaul completed.JPG
I fitted the wheels, and lowered the axle down to the floor, ready for installation tomorrow afternoon.
Axle lowered of stand.JPG
Axle ready for installation.JPG
This was a big job. Not that difficult at all, but time consuming. I learnt a lot about the working and assembly of the front axle though :) Quite a bit of fun, but I won't do it in a hurry again, or for anybody else :D:
Sifu-Lux....I will miss you
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Sifu-Lux
LR 4WD Full Lockers
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Posts: 636
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:46 pm
Town: Mount Vernon Illinois
Vehicle: GMC Sierra SLT Z71 (Used to drive a '91 SFA Hilux YN67R 4x4 ,Full OME, ARB lockers front and rear, Ford 3L V6, 35mm axle move, 33" General Grabber X3's and dual transfer cases....... Keep her safe Mud Dog!
Real Name: Andrew

Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Here are the costs so far for the axle overhaul portion of the project. I've included all the part numbers I could of the spares you need.
Toyota YN67 Front axle overhaul costs.xls
(33.5 KiB) Downloaded 434 times
I will update with further costs for everything when I am finished.
Sifu-Lux....I will miss you
wim
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Town: Vryheid
Vehicle: 95 hilux d/c Hilex
Real Name: Wimpie Van Der Vyver

Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by wim »

Andrew where did jou get the brake discs from and have jou mabe got the partnumber?The dealers want R4400 for two discks.
ImageImageImage
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Sifu-Lux
LR 4WD Full Lockers
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Posts: 636
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:46 pm
Town: Mount Vernon Illinois
Vehicle: GMC Sierra SLT Z71 (Used to drive a '91 SFA Hilux YN67R 4x4 ,Full OME, ARB lockers front and rear, Ford 3L V6, 35mm axle move, 33" General Grabber X3's and dual transfer cases....... Keep her safe Mud Dog!
Real Name: Andrew

Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Got them from Midas

Set Front disc rotors – Motopart MSD4277 R 489.89

The stealer is smoking something :shock:
Sifu-Lux....I will miss you
wim
LR 4WD Full Lockers
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Posts: 668
Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2008 10:54 pm
Town: Vryheid
Vehicle: 95 hilux d/c Hilex
Real Name: Wimpie Van Der Vyver

Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by wim »

I paid R476 at autozone and for the fouth time the discs are the wrong ones.Wil visit Midas tomorrow thanks.
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Sifu-Lux
LR 4WD Full Lockers
LR 4WD Full Lockers
Posts: 636
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:46 pm
Town: Mount Vernon Illinois
Vehicle: GMC Sierra SLT Z71 (Used to drive a '91 SFA Hilux YN67R 4x4 ,Full OME, ARB lockers front and rear, Ford 3L V6, 35mm axle move, 33" General Grabber X3's and dual transfer cases....... Keep her safe Mud Dog!
Real Name: Andrew

Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Just had an internet glitch and lost everything I had typed :evil:

Anyway here we go again. Had my daughters official birthday party today. The one with her little friends and the accompanying SWAMBO's :crazy:

Did not get much done until we got home after lunch. I cleaned up the U-Bolts and axle / spring clamps and then marked out and re-drilled the holes in the bumpstops. The holes must be moved 35mm back to allow for the nut of the bolt that holeds the leaf spring pack together. Here is the bumpstop mounted with the leafspring pack nut showing through the new relocated hole.
Hole for spring pack nut relocated on bumpstop base 35mm.JPG
My mate arrived later and so I roped him into helping me fit the front axle in position.
Front axle in position 35mm forward.JPG
Once it was in and lined up, I fastened the U-Bolts then lowered the Lux onto its wheels and removed the tressels it was supported on. Did a final position check then tightened everything up.
U bolts in position and tightened up in new holes.JPG
With all that done, I was itching to see what the new 33" MT's would look like, so I fitted one :thumbup:

Looks pretty darn good :D
Kumho 33 inch tyre and rim fitted to check.JPG
So, tomorrow I will connect all the rest of the bits, brake lines, torque rod and shocks etc.
Sifu-Lux....I will miss you
OOOOMS
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Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by OOOOMS »

Wow, Andrew, I have been following this project of yours with great interest!

Tx so much detail and effort you have done and the pics, brilliant and WELL DONE!!!!

Those wheels are really going to look awsome :!: :!: :!:

Can't wait to see the end result :thumbup:
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Sifu-Lux
LR 4WD Full Lockers
LR 4WD Full Lockers
Posts: 636
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:46 pm
Town: Mount Vernon Illinois
Vehicle: GMC Sierra SLT Z71 (Used to drive a '91 SFA Hilux YN67R 4x4 ,Full OME, ARB lockers front and rear, Ford 3L V6, 35mm axle move, 33" General Grabber X3's and dual transfer cases....... Keep her safe Mud Dog!
Real Name: Andrew

Re: Sifu-lux's Project 33" MT and more...

Post by Sifu-Lux »

Thanks Mark. It's good to get some moral support and feedback. I figured if I'm going to go to so much trouble, I may as well document it to help any others who want to do it. I learnt a lot from the other articles the other members posted. This is where you learn all the "tricks" not mentioned in any workshop manual :mrgreen:
Sifu-Lux....I will miss you
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