Brakkenjan's change from Ordinary to Custom

Post by **Mud Dog** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 4:59 pm

Mark, If I'm not mistaken, your model already had the "squarish" shaped tank. If you make some cardboard templates for an extension over the prop-shaft (be sure to leave enough clearance for full suspension depression and exhaust clearance), you could quite easily have the existing one modified. That's what I'll do with my 'new' one when I'm ready.

Stef · Post by **Stef** » Wed Sep 07, 2011 8:38 am

AFAIK the shape is the squarish one, but less capacity; a friend's '97 Raider has the same shape tank as my LTD but only 65/70 litres as oppsed to the 85litres of the LTD.

I must admit, I tend to agree with Andy on the coin type tank above the spare wheel; I have a S/Steel one (bought it like that) which I suspect holds about 40 liters or so.
That weight is just on the wrong side of the axle IMO, unless your spare is in the bin. If memeory serves Zane was going to do the dual 85l tank setup with Rusty's makeover, not sure if he did...

Post by **JohanM** » Wed Sep 07, 2011 9:06 am

Stef wrote:AFAIK the shape is the squarish one, but less capacity; a friend's '97 Raider has the same shape tank as my LTD but only 65/70 litres as oppsed to the 85litres of the LTD.

I must admit, I tend to agree with Andy on the coin type tank above the spare wheel; I have a S/Steel one (bought it like that) which I suspect holds about 40 liters or so.
That weight is just on the wrong side of the axle IMO,unless your spare is in the bin. If memeory serves Zane was going to do the dual 85l tank setup with Rusty's makeover, not sure if he did...

Stefan juis vir daai rede kyk ek eerder daarna om die jerries vir eers te hou totdat ek n 130 L tank kan opsit en selfs dan moet ek nogsteeds 2x 20L saam ry as ek beplan om meer as n 1000 km te gaan explore.

Ek kan die jerries op die as sit en volmaak waar nodig en verder travel hulle dan leeg. So dan is die voertuig outomaties ligter wanneer ek nie die extra sous benodig nie. En net swaarder vir kort ente van die travellings.

Gunta · Post by **Gunta** » Wed Sep 07, 2011 9:55 am

Why are you worried about the tank under the spare wheel? I cant say I have ever felt a difference and all my D/cabs have had, had an extra tank.

Stef · Post by **Stef** » Wed Sep 07, 2011 1:47 pm

To help prevent the tail from hanging, thus heavier stuff to the front...and departure angle (haven't had issues with mine yet)
Never filled my LR tank to capacity so I can't say whether there is a difference ot not; it just irritates me because it interferes with the spare wheel racking handle (cross brace is too long it seems; when bolted to chassis it bulges a bit reducing the gap where the handle passes through)

Gunta · Post by **Gunta** » Thu Sep 08, 2011 7:31 am

Never had that problem, Mine is always full.

Stef · Post by **Stef** » Thu Sep 08, 2011 10:38 am

Gunta, where's your spare? Still under the bin with the LR tank?
If there's no difference then it makes sense to leave mine & just fix the bracket.

Gunta · Post by **Gunta** » Thu Sep 08, 2011 11:00 am

Stef, the spare is under the tank. I have never had any issues with departure or anything else. I have even thought of mounting the spare on the rear bumper and installing a 130l LR tank.

Post by **JohanM** » Thu Oct 27, 2011 4:50 pm

I have recently decided to treat my SFA to the fitment of n properly made and special fitted battery bracket for the second battery that is travelling in the loadbin. Also the battery will be enclosed in a wheelarch box that will house all the wiring to the doors for lights ect. also the opposite side wheel arch will be the new home for my toolkit and spares.

I mounted it ontop of the wheel arch, where it used to be mounted as I want to utilise the space between the wheel arches for the drawer stsyem coming up and also a 100L auxilary fuel tank with seperate filler and pump to feed on demand into the other tank which will be the 81L IFS tank with the 2.7i Fuel pump.

Also I will have a 8mm fuel line made up to fit the chassis, 2.7 pump fitting and special Toyota HP fuel filter that has screw in sides on both sides to make the buzzing noise from the chassis mounted EFI pump go away completely. Also this will be more secure and reliable when travelling long distances through grassy, rocky and woodlands country where rubber pipes can be the cause of a problem.

Some other upgrades coming along after that, will be fitting an Alu Radiator from the 2.4D Hilux. replacing the interior fan motor with a Tazz fan motor, more cooling capacity/volume, also adding a fan to the aircon radiator to make the aircon more effecient and then some OME load springs in the back with my custom drawer system and later on the spade, axe and hilift jack will have its own swing arms on the towbar as these items are essential to any trip but always problematic to pack if you do not have a roofrack fitted...

Here is the pictures of my Battery fitted.

Post by **JohanM** » Wed Nov 16, 2011 7:58 pm

Here is some pictures of my Hilux after I have installed the extende diff breather pipes on my SFA.

I have decided to route the pipe following any mountable surface that was either part of the suspension, brakes or axles to keep the lines as far as possible out of harms way, as I do drive a lot in rough, grassy terrain and you cannot always see if something is going to catch a low slung pipe thus the way I routed it.

The Front Axle I routed it up following the Torque rod. I allowed more than enough slack and being fastened to the rod it the suspension articulation will not affect it at all.

I mounted the breather/Filter of the front axle facing backwards towards the firewall of the vehicle in thr engine bay, but securely mounted to the brake booster lines.

The rear axle followed the steel brake pipe on the back of the import axle and then up following the flexible brake pipe and then up to the loadbay and I clipped the filter in on an old tonneau cover clip that was there. Also this one is facing the rear of the vehicle.

Here is the pictures.

Front axle:

Torque rod Mounting:

Brake booster / Filter mounted

Rear Axle breather fitted:

Rear Axle routed:

Rear Routing into Chassis:

Rear Filter mounted:

Next up is the Radiator & Aircon upgrade and then the new packing system.

Donkey · Post by **Donkey** » Thu Nov 17, 2011 8:19 am

Neatly done I like

tho me suspects Mark will have something to say about the breather pipe stuck to the bin

Post by **CasKru** » Thu Nov 17, 2011 8:54 am

Ek sien jy het lekker baie tyd gehad om daai bindingspir op te sit... lol

Ek het my agterste filtertjie tussen die bak en die cab met ducttape vas geplak

Post by **JohanM** » Thu Nov 17, 2011 10:01 am

CasKru wrote:Ek sien jy het lekker baie tyd gehad om daai bindingspir op te sit... lol

Ek het my agterste filtertjie tussen die bak en die cab met ducttape vas geplak

Cassie, ja ek het twee layers oor mekaar gesit, en albei aste se breathers het my so amper n uur gevat, maar onthou daar was darem n koue een naby so ek was nie te haastig nie!!

Donkey wrote:Neatly done I like tho me suspects Mark will have something to say about the breather pipe stuck to the bin

Donkey, that was the idea to get him to say something!!

Post by **Mud Dog** » Thu Nov 17, 2011 7:08 pm

High level breathers are almost a 'must have' ... even low crossings can suck in water, but I would seriously consider moving that rear breather end to a better position Johan. I suggest this because ....

• If you take note of the waveform that develops during a deeper water crossing, as you will know, behind the bow wave you have a trough which is what helps to keep the engine bay dry ... but behind that trough you get a peak, and that peak is in the area of the rear door / filler cap, which is more or less where you have placed that breather end.

• A lesser point. It's exposed to weather and a little rain water might get in there from time to time, and if it does it will run back to the diff. A little at a time will still accumulate and eventually result in sufficient contamination to cause damage. Also it may get hooked and dislodged from there.

• A minor point. It doesn't look lekker sticking out there, and you may get some idiot that decides he wants that valve and cuts it off.

The front one is nicely done and neatly routed.

Post by **JohanM** » Thu Nov 17, 2011 8:06 pm

Thanks for the pointers Andy, I will look into that at some stage during the holiday this festive season.

I might just put it up beneath the loadbox lip where it can be seen and is well protected from the elements.

Post by **Mud Dog** » Thu Nov 17, 2011 9:50 pm

First prize would be to extend the pipe and take it up into the engine bay together with the other one.

Post by **JohanM** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 8:34 pm

This passing week, I bought and installed the new Alu Radiator to my 4Y.

Here is a picture of the OE radiator still in place.

Here is the picture of the difference in size of the old VS new radiator. The new one fits the cradle perfectly in size although I had to modify the brackets to line it up for fitment.

And here is the picutre showing it in place with the new changed radiator top hose.

Donkey · Post by **Donkey** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 8:47 pm

Johan how much did the radiator cost you?

Post by **JohanM** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 8:50 pm

Donkey wrote:Johan how much did the radiator cost you?

R1140-00 incl VAT & 1 year warranty from Silvertons!!!!

Donkey · Post by **Donkey** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 10:22 pm

Prices are so hectic these days I was guessing in the R3.5k region, but ya well done

Your truck is looking pretty good Johan. Keep it up

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 11:11 pm

Johan, I bought the exact same radiator about 4 months ago for R699 ! :wth: :wth:

The brackets also didn't want to fit, but when I looked at it closely I realised that it had been assembled incorrectly ... those brackets just screw on and were fitted upside down. Just inverted them and swapped them over and it fitted perfectly.

Post by **JohanM** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 6:31 pm

Early in December I had decided to build the final and most practical system for my needs in my SFA.

I opted for a low slung drawers system that was made to a certain measurement as the future plans to finish this off with everything inside the back for two people was now planned and a prototype test showed that it will work.

I made my own roof net & "roofrack" on the inside of the canopy as I needed to use all the space available effeciently without going overboard with weight and accesories.

Some of the mods include in the future is a 100L long range fuel tank with seperate filler neck, cap and also a seperate transfer pump to the soon to be installed 81L IFS tank.
Other mods include having the hilift, spade, axe and gas bottle on the towbar on two swingarms.
Last mods will include building a special removable cupboard packing system in the rear seat's place that will hold clothes, ect, 50L water, camera's ect and other small items such as books and jackets and a compact cooler for keeping drinks cool.

Here is some pictures of the current Progress so far on the final project.

The box on the wheelarch is my new toolbox and breakdown kit.

Still palanned is some nice attachments to keep all the tools neatly organised in a tool roll and extras like sockets on a clip slide that will be fitted to the lid of the box.

Post by **JohanM** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 6:47 pm

I also managed to get this sound deadning insulating bonnet pad from the stealers at a very good price, brand new.

These pads where fitted to the 2.8D raider D/C hiluxes.

Must say that onroad up to about 120km/h I barely notice that the engine is really working after fitting this hood liner. Makes travelling so much more quieter.

The Legend · Post by **The Legend** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 7:01 pm

Lyk goed Johan,g,n wonder jy was so skaars op die forum nie.Die drawer systeem jou besig gehou?

Post by **JohanM** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 7:14 pm

Lollie wrote:Lyk goed Johan,g,n wonder jy was so skaars op die forum nie.Die drawer systeem jou besig gehou?

Dawie ja hy het my besig gehou en hy gaan nog vir n hele rukkie my besig hou, maar darem is die grootste werk verby, die res is alles trimmings en klein veranderings/verbeterings.

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 7:22 pm

Ly sweet Johan

Gaan jy daai laaie donkerder verf? Lyk bietkie lig

Post by **JohanM** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 7:36 pm

OOOOMS wrote:Ly sweet Johan

Gaan jy daai laaie donkerder verf? Lyk bietkie lig

Mark daai Laaie word binekort vervang met 12mm Marine Plywood (Daai is net tydelik gewees vir die Lesotho trippie) en dan gaan ek hulle seël en binne in weer hulle ligtermaak om makliker te kan sien in as dit donker is. Maar ek gaan die ligte kleur inseel op die plywood sodat hy nie kan vlek of nat word nie.

Thunder02 · Post by **Thunder02** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 7:47 pm

Looking great Johan,nice draw system

Traveler · Post by **Traveler** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:33 pm

Johan, daai Brakkenjan van jou kom baie mooi aan.
Netjiese werk.

Post by **JohanM** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:40 pm

Thunder02 wrote:Looking great Johan,nice draw system

Traveler wrote:Johan, daai Brakkenjan van jou kom baie mooi aan.
Netjiese werk.

OOOOMS wrote:Ly sweet Johan

Manne baie dankie vir die komplimente. EK het vanaand n spring strut gefit om die toolbox se lid te kan oophou sou ek daarin moet iets soek of vir die ander wys hoe ek dit uitgele het.

Verder maak ek more aand vir my spesiale tool roll bags vir al die ringset spanners en skroewedraaiers sodat elkeen net een tipe gereedskap stuk in het. Volgende week monteer ek die 2de spaarwiel agterin en doen so paar verstellings aan die Net in die dak en doen ook so paar finishing touches allround.

Daarna sal ek eers die extra HD OME blades fit en sommer al 4 spring packs strip en grease en weer terug sit. Ons is amper klaar met al die dinge en dan gaan ek ook maar begin om sommer al die wheel bearings te replace met seals en als soos wat ons vorder en wat die fondse beskikbaar word vir alles.

Post by **JohanM** » Thu Feb 02, 2012 7:13 pm

As time allowed me, I have fitted the spare wheel inside the canopy and also the Takla Airjack with it as I found it to fit together just perfectly where I wanted to have it mounted. Inside the spare tyre, I now have 2x tubes, all the tyre repair goodies in a neat box and wrapped in soft material to not damage the tyre inside. Also the pipe for the airjack is also inside the tyre as it is easier to pack it there and it helps on keeping things together.

Also I have decided to fit the first aid kit ontop of the toolbox as on the trip through Lesotho it was an unused space and the First aid box was always stuffed in somewhere, which is not n good thing if you need to get to it quickly. Made my own tie down bungee cord as it needed to fit tightly.

Also I made the second part of the roof net where my sleeping gear will be transported.

Made the two support lines in such a way that I can adjust them or move them should i need to do that in order to get the sleeping gear neatly fitted in the roof.

Next up is the battery & Invertor box to be made and also some space for the fire extinghuiser to be housed. Will add later 2 more 1x kg's and 1 extra 0.6 kg in the cab inder the passenger seat. That will bring the fire extinghuisers total capacity up to 5.1kg of fire fighting capacity onboard.

Traveler · Post by **Traveler** » Thu Feb 02, 2012 9:14 pm

Very nice! Rather creative if I may say.

FUDGES · Post by **FUDGES** » Thu Feb 02, 2012 9:16 pm

Dit lyk baie goed Johan!!!!

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Thu Feb 02, 2012 9:35 pm

Lyk my jy's 'n man vol planne :wink2:

Net bietjie Q?
1)Is daar geen ander plek vir die spaar band nie? (amper se ek tyre.....

)
Waardevolle spasie wat jy daar benut, en dit voor jou kant deur.....

2)Die rek in die dak mag dalk nie voldoende wees vir slaapgoed ens. wees nie. Kyk dalk na iets 'n 'cargo net', mag dalk beter werk.

ps ek kritiseer nie, maar sien dinge uit 'n ander perspektief

Spartan · Post by **Spartan** » Thu Feb 02, 2012 10:05 pm

Johan, jy het nog nie gedink om eerder n alu canopy te kry nie

Post by **JohanM** » Fri Feb 03, 2012 9:13 am

Baie dankie mense, ek probeer maar mooi netjies werk.....

OOOOMS wrote:Lyk my jy's 'n man vol planne :wink2:

Net bietjie Q?
1)Is daar geen ander plek vir die spaar band nie? (amper se ek tyre..... )
Waardevolle spasie wat jy daar benut, en dit voor jou kant deur.....

2)Die rek in die dak mag dalk nie voldoende wees vir slaapgoed ens. wees nie. Kyk dalk na iets 'n 'cargo net', mag dalk beter werk.

ps ek kritiseer nie, maar sien dinge uit 'n ander perspektief

Mark om jou vrae te beantwoord;

1. Ja ek kan hom skuif, maar dan moet ek of dit op die towbar mount of n roofrack kry en dit daar monteer. Albei gevalle is die gewig meer omdat ek n rim ook moet dra en dit op albei plekke nie vir my optimaal is nie waar die gewig dan is. Ek wil nie die shape van die voertuig verander buite om nie, omdat dit hom swaarder op sous gaan maak as wat nodig is. Die towbar is n probleem omdat ek net lightweight dinge daar wil ry en ook wil ek nie my voertuig te lank maak nie, hy pas alreeds net soos hy is in party garages en parkeer plekke.Ook is dit wel so dat daai deur nou nie baie toegang verleen nie, maar dit is die "dooie kant" van die voertuig. Gebruik dit vir die shower kant.

2. Mark ek sal hom nog toets en sien of hy wel genoeg is, was amper genoeg in Lesotho en dit met net die 3x dwars lyne. Die 2x lengte gewys lyne sal nou seker genoeg wees om die 4/5 kg se slaapsakke te kan dra. Ook word daar n carrybag gemaak vir die slaap sakkeom hulle in n sekere manier te kan inpak sodat die rek dan die gewig deel tussen almal.

Hoop dit verduidelik vir jou hoe ek gedink het oor die saak.

Spartan wrote:Johan, jy het nog nie gedink om eerder n alu canopy te kry nie

Jaco, ja ek het al daaraan gedink, maar omdat hy so standard lyk word ek nooit op n weeg brug gestop nie, nie eers toe ek natal toe was of in Mosambiek trek hulle my ook baie minder af as die "kitted" voertuie omdat hulle dink dit is n gewone bakkie. Lyk nie soos n swaar overland voertuig nie. So nee ek wil nie een he nie, en ook lyk my bakkie mooi so met die Standaard canopy op met sy kant deure. Werk 100% vir my behoeftes. Ook bou ek alles uit los afval stukke wat by die huis rondle en net plek vat.

Die idee is om die voertuig so standaard moontlik te hou in sy voorkoms en wil net die spasie wat hy bied optimaal benut sonder om die hele huis te moet of kan inpak.

Its all about the essentials that makes the difference rather than the unnessecary stuff that makes camping a effort.

scout · Post by **scout** » Thu Feb 16, 2012 7:52 pm

enige vordering op jou trokkie johan?

Post by **JohanM** » Thu Feb 16, 2012 9:25 pm

scout wrote:enige vordering op jou trokkie johan?

Jonathan om jou te antwoord sal ek se ja daar is vordering, maar minimaal omdat ek die laaste 2 weke my spaartyd gewy het aan die Citigolf se herstel werk. :alvarin:

Dinge wat al gebeur het so in die tussentyd. Die roofnet het nog 'n verlenging bygekry om die shower mat bo teen die dak vas te hou bo-oor die spaarband. Volgende week as ek tyd het gaan ek kyk om die IFS tank op te sit sodat ek 81L onder in die hoof tank het en ek begin ook met die battery & elektriese kas waarin ek al die nodige krag dinge gaan monteer. 220V krag, 12v battery, inverter en dan ook die nodie extensions gaan daar ry so dit gaan bietjie tyd vat om hom mooi te bou dat hy funksioneel gaan werk.

Dan moet ek begin spaar vir die 2de tank se bou asook die nuwe agter buffer wat ek ontwerp het vir my behoeftes. Na dit sal ek die sonpaneel en regulator opsit en dan is my bakkie klaar gebou.

Post by **JohanM** » Tue May 08, 2012 4:48 pm

A few weeks ago my extra blades have arrived from PE, and I have decided that it is time to upgrade the OME suspension once more to the Xtra Heavy duty spring load that can constantly carries 370 kg's constant which is about 30 - 50 kgs short of having my vehicle fully setup and filled with everything, so it will be perfect.

Below is a picture taken of my Hilux with almost most of the kit packed in and it is still standing tall with no tail sag. I have taken it over a bad corrugated and washed out dirt road and with the load in the back in was driving like it is almost not loaded. Very stable and no heavy tail feeling. Also general driving it was really comfortable beyond what I was expecting with the Extra heavy duty setup in the back.

Also in the picture the bottom of the towbar measure 600mm of the ground which i think is sufficient for serious safari travelling.

Post by **JohanM** » Thu Sep 13, 2012 8:36 am

The last stages of changing and modifying my SFA is here, and some of it happened due to a slight mishap that occured. This prompted me to pull the wiring harness complete and have a look to see if any damage was done as I noticed the headlight plugs had started to deform slightly from heat, so not wanting a vehicle that had some other problems lying in hiding I set about puling it out all together on one Day.

I am currently busy in sorting the wiring out, and also upgrading the original charging circuit of the vehicle to the Fusebox and also the the cab. I found quite a few hidden lemons that decreased the Alternator's perfromance in this department. Also a lot of unused wiring that has been cut off and just left in the harness was discovered. I also removed the old factory installed emmision control box and wiring as it has been unused in our country.

Also the Spotlights relay and wiring will go through the OE fusebox as there is place for it to be fitted, and I also set about uprating the old thin wires in the Fusebox for the headlights and also the other wires that has been affected by old age. I should be able to see after this a difference in performance of the headlights and also just allround a brighter and more energized electrical system.

Also have I decided that the original temp sender wire and oil pressure wire to be replaced together with the Starter circuit as all of them showed signs of age and not being 100% anymore.

Here is pictures of the harness removed, the fusebox also removed and just the cabin with no wires in it.

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From here it will be taped up with electrical cloth tape, sleeved in spiral and corrugated sleeving and taped up neatly with flame retarding insulation tape allround to ensure it is well protected and ready for some serious action from here onwards.

After the wiring repair, I will set about changing the rear roof console to a more passenger friendly setup, then also build 2x door pockets as well as a special roofconsole for the Kenwood VHF radio and some other oddments that is ready to be fitted. After this I will relook my Centre console and make some changes to it and then It will be all go from here onwards.

Some other unfinished projects will also be tidied up while working on it, and Hopefully by the end of October all will be done so that I can one take my SFA for a decent Valet and then join in for the year end GTG with my Almost completed project SFA.

Post by **CasKru** » Thu Sep 13, 2012 8:56 am

Jis Johan... het jy al daai draad self getrek?

Jy vattie strooi van kabouters nie sien ek. Netjiese job sover en voorspoed met die terug bedrading

Post by **JohanM** » Thu Sep 13, 2012 9:18 am

CasKru wrote:Jis Johan... het jy al daai draad self getrek?

Jy vattie strooi van kabouters nie sien ek. Netjiese job sover en voorspoed met die terug bedrading

Cassie dankie man, ja die terug sit is nie so maklik nie want dan kom die alarm en als moet custom in gewire word op die standaard harnas. Ja dit is 'n groot draadtrek sessie die!!

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Thu Sep 13, 2012 10:06 am

Jy meen die uithaal en wys is niks... dis die oprol en terugsit waar die probleem inkom??

Post by **JohanM** » Thu Sep 13, 2012 10:10 am

ThysdJ wrote:Jy meen die uithaal en wys is niks... dis die oprol en terugsit waar die probleem inkom??

Netso Thys!!!

The Legend · Post by **The Legend** » Thu Sep 13, 2012 5:57 pm

Johan

Al wat ek vir jou kan se is dat ek my hoed baie hoog vir jou afhaal.Dit wil gedoen wees.

Post by **Family_Dog** » Thu Sep 13, 2012 6:07 pm

Wow! hat's a mammoth task you've set yourself, Johan! But at least it will be well done and you need not worry about any future harness wiring problems afterwards :)

-F_D

Post by **JohanM** » Tue Sep 25, 2012 10:02 am

This past weekend, I spent most of my time tracing, replacing and repairing wiring where needed.

I found a lot of old unused wiring in the harness that was used to run the Original external voltage regulator & coil as well as the emmision control unit that was used in certain countries. Also I removed all the auxilary equipment like the radio that was fitted afterwards wiring.

I also spent a day on the charging circuit tracing it, check for any damage and also ensuring that the wires that was left unused has been removed. I found in one place, the wiring has been bridged out with a jumper wire between two circuits on the old plug. Also I found that one of the charging circuit wires was never connected thus my battle to get the alternators to deliver the required juice.

I set about redoing the needed radio wires, including routing the wires for the speakers correctly, and also cleaned up the ignition wires under the steering where the first alarm system has been fitted.

I replaced a lot of wires with new ones. Also managed to trace that the circuit from the battery going into the fuse box was joined previously 4 times, and none of the joints was neat and all looked like current robbing thieves. I opted to fit 2 new wires powering the fusebox, one doing the OE work and the other one supplying the EFI, spots and other aux equipment with power.

Below is some pictures of it. I used 2x colours of flame retartend insulation tape to tape up the harness.

I opted to sleeve the full harness after it has been taped together securely and then seal the sleeving with black high quality flame retartend tape. I still need to do a dummy fit and test that everything works, before I can rewire the alarm system in and the the spots and air horns will all be done once the vehicle is up and running.

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Post by **Family_Dog** » Tue Sep 25, 2012 2:39 pm

I don't envy you Johan, but at least you will never have to worry about your vehicle's electrics once you've completed the job.

-F_D

Post by **JohanM** » Tue Sep 25, 2012 3:45 pm

Family_Dog wrote:I don't envy you Johan, but at least you will never have to worry about your vehicle's electrics once you've completed the job.

-F_D

Thanks F_D, that is why i stripped it bare. Fix it once, add the extra's in a factory fitted way and standard, and then never worry about circuits or anything any more. Then everything will we OE look a like. Only add on that will be different is the kenwoods wiring and the extra wiring for the spots and hooters.

GeorgeJvR · Post by **GeorgeJvR** » Wed Sep 26, 2012 10:53 am

Leka harde werk ne.

Post by **JohanM** » Sat Oct 13, 2012 7:13 pm

Today I finished the harness with the last bits and bobs being sorted out. Then I set about pulling the heater radiator and to remove the old little bit of sound insulation pad that was fitted to the vehicles in those years.

I bought the Raider's fire wall insulator from Georgejvr. SO today I had to fit this pad first before I could start to put the harness back in the vehicle for testing and to also get it in such a way that I could fit the alarm system next weekend.

Here is a picture to show the huge difference in sound insulation from the Raider models compared to the old bare pre raider models.

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To get it out I removed even more last remaining bits from the inside. Stripped out the heater radiator and also had to remove the pedal box completely. In the picture below you can see how bare the standard insulation was fitted to only the needed bits to damp some NVH from the motor.

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Then I set about putting the the new insulation in so that I can start to fit the harness back in place for a dummy test to check that everything works as it should.

Here is the after picture of the new pad fitted. As you can see there is now no more exposed (noisy) metal in the firewall anymore. I expect the vehice to be substansially quiter when driving it which is the reason why I bought the insulator pad from George.

: Insulation in.jpg (69.78 KiB) Viewed 5900 times

Then I started to refit the harness back in place and started to route it back the way it was routed so that I could connect everything back in its place.

: Wires in.jpg (63.44 KiB) Viewed 5900 times

Here the harness is dummy fitted. The blue section will still be sleeved in black corrugated sleeving and then taped closed with black flame retardent insulation tape once I had tested everything including the alarm and tracker still to be fitted.

Then after the wires was pulled back in place, I cleaned the battery tray as the paint started to come off and some surface rust showed in areas which I did not like, so I got some rust convertor and metal primer out, sorted the surface out, and then gave it two decent coats of stone chip to prevent it from chaving through again. I extended the pain a bit to where the Earth wire and also the starter's wire managed to rub the paint through on a certain spot where it just made contact with the paint. SO now the wires won't rub through the paint any more and alsy the battery tray is looking a lot better than it used to be.

Battery tray.jpg: (48.72 KiB) Downloaded 941 times

SO next weekend I will finish the wiring refit, connect up everything and then start the vehicle and see that everything works perfectly.

Donkey · Post by **Donkey** » Sat Oct 13, 2012 8:52 pm

Lots of work but doing it yourself is good then you know where's what and you know it's done properly - good luck buddy

Hi-Hilux · Post by **Hi-Hilux** » Sat Oct 13, 2012 9:06 pm

Johan, dit wil gedoen wees! Jy het duidelik te-veel guts.

The Legend · Post by **The Legend** » Sat Oct 13, 2012 9:12 pm

Ek weet by wie om aan te klop as ek my bakkie se dash bord wil uithaal

Post by **JohanM** » Sun Oct 14, 2012 9:01 pm

Donkey wrote:Lots of work but doing it yourself is good then you know where's what and you know it's done properly - good luck buddy

Donkey, thank you, yes its a lot of hard work, and many hours of work, but so far im happy with the way it is coming together now.

Hi-Hilux wrote:Johan, dit wil gedoen wees! Jy het duidelik te-veel guts.

Trevor, baie dankie, jong dit is eintlik baie maklik, jy begin op n punt en werk alles terug weer daarna toe, jy moet net onthou hoe het wat gepas en waar. Ook is ek maar n pyn by drade en netjiese werk, asook stroom verliese te beprek deur die nodige verbeteringe te doen.

Lollie wrote:Ek weet by wie om aan te klop as ek my bakkie se dash bord wil uithaal

Dawie, jy moet laat weet as jy reg is met daai kabel dan help ek jou een Saterdag gou.

So today I continued my work in putting back the harness, taping it to the mounting points supplied and checking that all the wires run neatly and have enough free movement to prevent future hiccups. Also I decided that while the ventilation ducts was all loose, it was time to conduct a non scientific experiment.

Idea was to simulate the same effect of the vents being heated by the sun when the vehicle is parked in the sun. So I pulled all the ducts, put them outside the garage and left them there for the morning. After 30 minutes i checked to see how warm the inside has got from lying in the sun. It was all round warm. So I made a plan....

The above idea was to simulate the same heat the vehicle will generate when the car is left in the sun for a while in our hot weather. Even though the dashboard is over the ducts, it still does get heated by the sun and they tend to run close to the dashboard panels.

I pulled some flashing tape out a drawer, and started to cut the lenghts and sizes as I now have insulated them from heat and to let them radiate the heat away from the ducting it self. I completed all of them, and then left them out for 1 hour before checking by how much the difference was.

After an hour, the outside was warm and the lip of the ducts were warm, but the inside was cool to the extent that it felt like it was left in the shade.

So by doing this mod I hope to be able to improve the aircon's cooling capacity. Currently my aircon is giving a vent temperature of 5 degrees, and I expect this change should be able to bring it down to about 2 degrees which will translate into having a very cold aircon in my vehicle. It should be able now to compare with the IFS's aircon's cooling effeciency.

Here is the before and after picture.

Before insulating.jpg: (66.16 KiB) Downloaded 922 times

after ins.jpg: (60.01 KiB) Downloaded 922 times

Post by **JohanM** » Tue Nov 06, 2012 1:52 pm

A quick update on the progress!!! The wiring harness is fitted back in place. Fusebox mods is done. Tested all the circuits, and it is working.. Still need to put the ecu back in and see that the vehicle will start. Also still need to fit the Alarm system in place again and also the dual battery system needs to be reconnected. New headlight lenses to be fitted as mine is old and not that clear anymore. SO far it is nearing the completion date so that it should be ready for in the gorge weekend. After that the fuel tanks will be fitted and the last mods will be completed over time till end of December when all is to be completed and done. From there on it will be just driving all the time and enjoying it.

Eagle eyed readers will spot the differences in the engine bay.

Here is the last pic of the engine bay.

Update.jpg: (63.62 KiB) Downloaded 850 times

Thunder02 · Post by **Thunder02** » Tue Nov 06, 2012 2:34 pm

Looking good

lots of hard work but worth it in the end

Post by **JohanM** » Tue Nov 06, 2012 3:50 pm

Thanks Niel,

It is a lot more work than anticipated and taking also a lot longer, but yes at the end it will be worth it, cause then i'll be able to go trans africa without worrying about anything.

Bulletjie-3 · Post by **Bulletjie-3** » Tue Nov 06, 2012 5:38 pm

Watse grys boksie het jy daar langs die stokke ?
Sterkte en voorspoed met jou pragwa.

Post by **JohanM** » Tue Nov 06, 2012 5:42 pm

Bulletjie-3 wrote:Watse grys boksie het jy daar langs die stokke ?
Sterkte en voorspoed met jou pragwa.

Evert, waarna verwys jy? Watter foto??? Dankie baie, dit vat maar lank tyd maar ek glo alles sal reg wees na die operasie!!