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Hi all, Just bought a Hilux 3.4 2003 crew cab 4x4.
I've got real bad brake wobble from the rear so I'm guessing the drums are stuffed/oval..
Also there's a lot of noise coming from the rear which I also suspect is the bearings.
The issue I have is getting the drums off?
Is there a screw snapped I cant see or is it they are just cooked on like old fords tend to do?
I've used a led shot rubber hammer to try and budge them but they feel solid?
Any suggestions ??
You will need to reverse the adjusting screw. In order to do this you will need to push the locking mechanism away and then turn it with a flat screw driver
and I think the shoes have worn away the drums, now there is a rim on the inside of the drum and that is why you cannot get the drum over the shoe, got same problem on mine.
Only Dead Fish Go With The Flow!
1999 Hilux 2.7i 4x4 Raider DC with 3.4 Prado V6. Rear diff-lock, Bull Bar and rock sliders, 31" Cooper ST Maxx, Snorkel, Alu-Canopy, VHF Motorolla radio, West Coast Rust, Mikem Suspension, Ball Joint Spacers in front and Mikem extended shackles at the rear, 25watt LED Spots
On the drum, between the studs you should see two holes. Turn an M10(I think) bolt in there, both one turn at a time to get the drum off. Remember to have the handbrake released before you start.
It usually comes off with lots of noise and the bolts can feel if they can not take more strain!
'02 KZ 'Lux. Cooled. Chipped. Onca'd. Cherished!
If you are a diesel fan, raise your hand.
If you aren't raising your hand, raise your standards!
A 4x4 is merely a machine that enables you to get stuck further away from civilization.
Ha ha, been there done that. If the drum is warn away you battle to get it off. I screwed in a bolt in those holes and turned it, while hitting the side of the drum with rubber hammer, until the drum started to warp and a crack started to form around those holes.
I am as eager as Vern to see the solution to this problem
Only Dead Fish Go With The Flow!
1999 Hilux 2.7i 4x4 Raider DC with 3.4 Prado V6. Rear diff-lock, Bull Bar and rock sliders, 31" Cooper ST Maxx, Snorkel, Alu-Canopy, VHF Motorolla radio, West Coast Rust, Mikem Suspension, Ball Joint Spacers in front and Mikem extended shackles at the rear, 25watt LED Spots
You have to apply a thon coat of coppaslip or a grease with copper in on
the contact areas of the drum and hub. It will only prevent it from
rusting together but when talking off it will still need some force and
produce noise!
'02 KZ 'Lux. Cooled. Chipped. Onca'd. Cherished!
If you are a diesel fan, raise your hand.
If you aren't raising your hand, raise your standards!
A 4x4 is merely a machine that enables you to get stuck further away from civilization.
A pair of crowbars on either side should help you pry them off.
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.
Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow. Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive. It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain. And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!
Cassie I did, until I was blue in the face
Andy I tried that, but then you stuff up the backplate
Sorry I am hijacking Vern's post here, but I think he has the same problem
Only Dead Fish Go With The Flow!
1999 Hilux 2.7i 4x4 Raider DC with 3.4 Prado V6. Rear diff-lock, Bull Bar and rock sliders, 31" Cooper ST Maxx, Snorkel, Alu-Canopy, VHF Motorolla radio, West Coast Rust, Mikem Suspension, Ball Joint Spacers in front and Mikem extended shackles at the rear, 25watt LED Spots
Very rarely will drums come off easily .... most of the time you will have to slack off the adjuster a bit before apllying any force. Normally I have success with the crowbars, but if all else fails and you still want to save the drums, then drill two opposing 8,5mm holes through the middle of the brake surface of the drum ... do this carefully at top and bottom so as to avoid damaging any internals. If you feel that you will not be able to control the drill at the point of 'breakthrough', then rather drill the holes straight through into the pads from the sides ... (you're going to replace them anyway), but the base plates of the shoes will stop the bit from penetrating further. When the holes are drilled, if you drilled top and bottom, rotate the drum so that the holes are to the sides (over the shoes) .... then put a couple of short 8mm bolts into the holes and force them in together with a G-clamp, just a little so as to force the shoes back enough for them to clear the ridge on the drum.
Before fitting new shoes and replacing the drum, take a 10 mm drill bit lightly to the inside of the holes you drilled so as to clean up any burrs and that the new shoes don't suffer.
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.
Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow. Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive. It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain. And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!
It will be sat before I get to do a bit more GBH on the drums but ill try the bolt tekneek with a bit of wd 40 to see if they move. I guess they are buggard so i'm planning on replacing them, Who is good to supply parts to Oz, Perth?
Should work fine ... just slack off on the adjuster first.
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.
Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow. Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive. It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain. And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!
With my limited knowledge, that trick does not work on the IFS trucks.
Maybe some of the clever lads can solve this trivia?
Thabo
It does work. When I go through mud (don't like it at all, but sometimes you must), normally my brakes don't work that well . It takes me about 20 min jacking up the car, take the wheel off, release the self tensioner from the back, removing the brake drum with the 2X 8mm bolts, rinsing out and putting everything back together
Maak die handrem los
Maak die beeding valve los
Maak die adjuster los soos op diagram
Druk die skoene na mekaar toe (pasop vir die sous by die bleeder valve)
Maak sous skoon
Draai 2 x 8mm boute in die drom
Haal drom af sonder hammer
Drink my bier klaar
Gaan haal nog n bier
Vervang skoene
Maak toe
Sit wiele op
Var bier en toets remme
Hoop dit help
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If you don’t build your dreams someone else will hire you to build there’s
Masekind wrote:Ek het ook baie gestoei hier is my risep:
Maak die handrem los
Maak die beeding valve los
Maak die adjuster los soos op diagram Druk die skoene na mekaar toe (pasop vir die sous by die bleeder valve)
Maak sous skoon
Draai 2 x 8mm boute in die drom
Haal drom af sonder hammer
Drink my bier klaar
Gaan haal nog n bier
Vervang skoene
Maak toe
Sit wiele op
Var bier en toets remme
Hoop dit help
Drikus
Mis ek iets,hoe druk jy die remskoene na mekaar toe met die drom op?
“A BAD DAYS FISHING IS BETTER THAN A GOOD DAYS WORK”
“Do what you do so well, that the people that see you do it, will want to see you do it again,and will bring others to see you do it”
Weet nie dat hulle dit almal op het nie, maar op sommige backing plates is daar 'n rubber grommet wat jy kan uithaal om slyting op die skoene te check. Heel moontlk kan jy ter minstens die een kant terug druk nadat jy die adjuster bietjie los gemaak / terug gestel het. Behoort nie nodig te wees om die 'bleeder valve' oop te maak nie ... die sous sal net na die reservoir terug gestoot word ( maak net seker dat dit nie te vol is dat dit oorstroom nie).
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.
Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow. Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive. It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain. And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!
Mud Dog wrote:Weet nie dat hulle dit almal op het nie, maar op sommige backing plates is daar 'n rubber grommet wat jy kan uithaal om slyting op die skoene te check.
Net daar druk ek n skroewdraaier in en bo het ek n hak gemaak om die agterste skoen trug te trek.
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If you don’t build your dreams someone else will hire you to build there’s
AS jy nou sê bo verstaan ek dit reg dat jy die remskoen terug trek deur die boonste gleufie waar mens die remme opstel? Hoe lyk die haak wat jy gemaak het?
Mars wrote:AS jy nou sê bo verstaan ek dit reg dat jy die remskoen terug trek deur die boonste gleufie waar mens die remme opstel? Hoe lyk die haak wat jy gemaak het?
Dankie
Dit is reg ek het eers sommer n welding rod (SS is lekker hard en buig moeililk) gebruik in die boonste gleef en hak in n gat onder die pad jy kan selfs seker die spring trek ook reg onder die boonste gleef, en die ander gleef teen die kant n skroewedraaier. Dit is hoekom ek die bleeding valve los maak dan druk/ trek die pads makliker. Al my goed is nou gestrip vervang die wiel bearings, sal n pic post as ek dit weer in sit (sal seker volgende week wees)
If you don’t build your dreams someone else will hire you to build there’s
ok ive found the drums arnt to bad but here is the next issue..
On braking I get the same feel as a warped disk but! there is a slight clonk too, like a cracked drum but im sure its at the front. the thing is, its not in time with a full revolution of the wheel? could it be a ball joint? its fine on acceleration and cornering, just braking. the slower I get the more pronounced it feels. right up to the point I stop it goes from bump to clonk?
If it's just on braking, then it's almost certainly a brake issue .... but why do you say it's not in time with wheel revs? Does it slow down in frequency as the vehicle slows?
Disks and drums can both become warped a produce a brake 'shudder'. If it's on the front, you will feel it on the steering.
The 'clunk' can be from suspension components ... if it's an SFA it could be torque-rod bushes, shackle bushes, spring hanger bushes, U-bolts or even the leaf packs themselves. If it's IFS it could be ball joints, control arm bushes, idler arm.
Try make sure where it's coming from (front or back).
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.
Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow. Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive. It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain. And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!
Dankie[/quote]
Dit is reg ek het eers sommer n welding rod (SS is lekker hard en buig moeililk) gebruik in die boonste gleef en hak in n gat onder die pad jy kan selfs seker die spring trek ook reg onder die boonste gleef, en die ander gleef teen die kant n skroewedraaier. Dit is hoekom ek die bleeding valve los maak dan druk/ trek die pads makliker. Al my goed is nou gestrip vervang die wiel bearings, sal n pic post as ek dit weer in sit (sal seker volgende week wees)[/quote]
Regarding in time with wheel revolution, if the disk is cracked in one place the clunk would happen every 1 revolution of the wheel, but it clunks twice? so not in time with a revolution oddly? It slows as the vehicle slows just like disc wobble and it is definitely on the front as I can feel it through the steering. IFS buy the way.
I'll keep digging around with it and see what I find, Thanks for your help Mud Dog..
It's almost certain that you have a warped front disc. The 2 x "clunks" per revolution can then also be explained since a warped disc will force the wheel out and then back in again with each revolution. If you can 'feel' the clunk through the floorboards as well, then it could be the leaves shifting in the spring leaf pack (SFA), but it could also be a number of other things like tie-rod ends, draglink etc. Chances are that once you replace the discs, you won't get the 'clunking' any more.
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.
Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow. Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive. It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain. And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!
Mud Dog wrote:It's almost certain that you have a warped front disc. The 2 x "clunks" per revolution can then also be explained since a warped disc will force the wheel out and then back in again with each revolution. If you can 'feel' the clunk through the floorboards as well, then it could be the leaves shifting in the spring leaf pack (SFA), but it could also be a number of other things like tie-rod ends, draglink etc. Chances are that once you replace the discs, you won't get the 'clunking' any more.
Yeh your right about the warp in the disc, it does give a slight wobble. I'll do that first as it wont be a waisted job and see how it goes. Thanks again fella, i'll let you know when I get the discs swopped..
LouisZ wrote:Slag off the adjuster and then use 2 M8 bolts about 80mm long in the holes provided on the drum and turn the bolts that it move the drum away.
Had a problem with one drum and the 2x 8mm bolts did the job.
Also learnt that the adjusters work the same on both sides and not opposite as with some other vehicles.
Found shaft seal weeping and causing rear brakes to lock when vehicle has been standing for a while. Will replace the seal next week.
Have same problem on the Corolla
. It takes me about 20 min jacking up the car, take the wheel off, release the self tensioner from the back, removing the brake drum with the 2X 8mm bolts, rinsing out and putting everything back together 
