At last.

Froll · Post by **Froll** » Sun Jul 06, 2014 9:10 pm

Well I bought some tubing this past week and eventually got started on building my canopy. Will post some pics as I go along. Will take a while as we are busy in our harvest time now. I have used 25x50 x1.6 mm rectangle tube and 30 mm angle for the base. Must still get the tube for the doors and alu sheeting, plus door rubbers, locks and struts. Will get there.

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sun Jul 06, 2014 10:04 pm

Looking good so far!!

I would have used the same material size flat bar (25mm) for the base as well - no protrusions, but that's just me.

What I would suggest though is that you weld in a couple of 'internal' gussets into the top corners of the door opening as this is where the frame will be at it's weakest - no base rail or panel to keep it rigid. It will want to flex at those points, especially when there is extra weight loaded on the roof. The gussets don't have to be big so as to constrict the opening, and if they are placed 'internally' they won't interfere with the door.

: IMG_0479.jpg (52.23 KiB) Viewed 6590 times

Alternatively weld in an all-round 'internal' lip that serves both as a gusset and a door jamb.

WayneMan · Post by **WayneMan** » Sun Jul 06, 2014 10:22 pm

What is a gusset

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Vlak vark · Post by **Vlak vark** » Mon Jul 07, 2014 4:46 am

WayneMan wrote:What is a gusset

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it is a steel plate normally triangle shape welded in coners to strengthen the weld and to spead the load more evenly.

Post by **CasKru** » Mon Jul 07, 2014 6:16 am

WayneMan wrote:What is a gusset

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you can call it a support brace as well

WayneSchalk · Post by **WayneSchalk** » Mon Jul 07, 2014 8:34 am

Rodger, it looks good

Keep the pics coming in as you make progress, I like these threads

Obelix and Dogmatix · Post by **Obelix and Dogmatix** » Mon Jul 07, 2014 9:49 am

WayneSchalk wrote:Rodger, it looks good

Keep the pics coming in as you make progress, I like these threads

AND yous seem to be quite good at making these threads yourself!!

WayneSchalk · Post by **WayneSchalk** » Mon Jul 07, 2014 10:56 am

WQN wrote:
WayneSchalk wrote:Rodger, it looks good

Keep the pics coming in as you make progress, I like these threads
AND yous seem to be quite good at making these threads yourself!!

Post by **pietpetoors** » Mon Jul 07, 2014 11:59 am

Nice.

Post by **Haboob** » Mon Jul 07, 2014 12:07 pm

Keep the pitches rolling Roger...

Mossienel · Post by **Mossienel** » Tue Jul 08, 2014 8:06 pm

Lyk goed, stuur nog fotos dat ons nog met die oog kan steel. [JAPANESE OGRE]

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ROOFER · Post by **ROOFER** » Wed Jul 09, 2014 3:07 am

Looking good Roger

Froll · Post by **Froll** » Sat Jul 12, 2014 7:53 pm

Got a bit more done today. Fitted the flat iron for the door rubbers to go over. Wanted to make the doors but ran out of time today.[quote="Mud Dog"]Looking good so far!!

I would have used the same material size flat bar (25mm) for the base as well - no protrusions, but that's just me.

What I would suggest though is that you weld in a couple of 'internal' gussets into the top corners of the door opening as this is where the frame will be at it's weakest - no base rail or panel to keep it rigid. It will want to flex at those points, especially when there is extra weight loaded on the roof. The gussets don't have to be big so as to constrict the opening, and if they are placed 'internally' they won't interfere with the door.

Andy, the flat steel acts as gussets and I used the angle iron on the base so that it fits snug into the bak to stop any side movement when the canopy is on.

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sat Jul 12, 2014 9:25 pm

Froll · Post by **Froll** » Sun Jul 20, 2014 12:55 pm

Got the door frames done yesterday.

ChrisF · Post by **ChrisF** » Sun Jul 20, 2014 4:36 pm

kry nou mooi vorm :)

Donkey · Post by **Donkey** » Sun Jul 20, 2014 5:12 pm

If you good, you good neh? well done

Thunder02 · Post by **Thunder02** » Sun Jul 20, 2014 7:00 pm

Looking great

What do you have in mind for the interior

Froll · Post by **Froll** » Sat Aug 02, 2014 2:43 pm

What do you have in mind for the interior

[/quote]

Niel, I will still decide what I am going to do inside. I dont want to rush into doing something only to want to change it later on.

I sprayed the frame today and did not have enough undercoat to do the doors, so that will have to be done next week. My alu sheeting should be here in the week, so the big job is still to come.

The Legend · Post by **The Legend** » Sat Aug 02, 2014 3:11 pm

I like what I see.

legend35 · Post by **legend35** » Sat Aug 02, 2014 5:51 pm

Looking good

.I can see you know what you are doing.The angle iron fitting inside the load bin works great ,never have to sukkel to get the bolts in. Excellent

Post by **pietpetoors** » Sun Aug 03, 2014 3:59 pm

What locks are you going to use, I see you ordered your rubbers, etc, but no locks and Sikaflex?

Froll · Post by **Froll** » Sun Aug 03, 2014 7:47 pm

pietpetoors wrote:What locks are you going to use, I see you ordered your rubbers, etc, but no locks and Sikaflex?

Will get them next month Piet. Budget did not allow them this month, Alu sheeting cost over 2 grand for 3 sheets, cannot buy cut sizes up here only full sheets. Due to this I will have 3 pieces of 1 x 1,2 meters over. I have decided to use flat sheets and not thread plate so that I can use the off cuts to make a folding table.

Post by **pietpetoors** » Sun Aug 03, 2014 8:01 pm

I have decided to use flat sheets and not thread plate so that I can use the off cuts to make a folding table.

That is a brilliant idea

Ja, is bad that you always have these off-cuts.
Is easy when you in the big City and can order by size.

Thunder02 · Post by **Thunder02** » Mon Aug 04, 2014 12:49 pm

pietpetoors wrote:
I have decided to use flat sheets and not thread plate so that I can use the off cuts to make a folding table.

That is a brilliant idea

Ja, is bad that you always have these off-cuts.
Is easy when you in the big City and can order by size.[/quote]

Trust me, they charge for those off cuts

Froll · Post by **Froll** » Sat Aug 23, 2014 6:59 pm

Today I sprayed the doors , fitted the roof and 2 side door with sheeting. The flat sheeting marks very easily, little bit disappointed. But I have accepted it as it will probably scratch soon in the veld. Still need to get the locks and struts, so it should be finished soon.

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sat Aug 23, 2014 7:36 pm

Looking good!

Hi-Hilux · Post by **Hi-Hilux** » Sat Aug 23, 2014 7:44 pm

Lyk al mooi

Oupa Stig · Post by **Oupa Stig** » Sat Aug 23, 2014 8:05 pm

Roger, I feel your pain with the scratches, esp on something you built yourself. I cladded my canopy with alu treadplate. (hi-brite, has a slightly different pattern, annoys the hell out of other motorists because it's VERY reflective with low sun positions)
The treadplate pattern is less prone to scratches, but scratches easily none the less.
Every time I get into my bakkie I see a ugly mark where the drillbit broke (holes for rivits) and the drill ran off for a moment, causing a spiral scratch about an inch long. Other folks don't see it, but I do, and it annoys me.
Strangely, the fact that my diy canopy leakes like a sieve bothers me not one bit... My door configuration needs to be modified slightly, with a lip on the sill, but I do not want to actually do it, because I load heavy toolboxes through the side doors, and I just know my staff will damage that sill + lip combination by banging heavy toolboxes down on it.
So I use it as is, and because It only gets a trickle of water in heavy rain, and because of the corrugated nature of the loadbed, my tools remain dry. Don't change something that does not need changing...
Your canopy looks great, will be interesting to see it on your truck!

JohanW · Post by **JohanW** » Sat Aug 23, 2014 11:03 pm

Oupa Stig, I had a look at the metallian canopies a while back. They have a really nice rubber seal that sits on the door of the canopy itself.
http://ikapakappies.co.za/wp-content/ga ... CN0353.JPG" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
It shoud be simple to make or get something similar. Then you don't have the lip problem. The other solution would be to have a lip but just replace the rubber on it every now and then. You are left with 3 out of the 4 sides of the door that will seal properly since it doesn't get any wear. That means 75% less water inside too...

Thunder02 · Post by **Thunder02** » Sun Aug 24, 2014 1:23 pm

Coming along nicely

I put carpet (glued) on the inside of the doors and boxes, as to get no reflection from the alli, when taking and putting things back into the canopy.

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sun Aug 24, 2014 6:32 pm

Thunder02 wrote:Coming along nicely
I put carpet (glued) on the inside of the doors and boxes, as to get no reflection from the alli, when taking and putting things back into the canopy.

Would it not be easier to just spray it matt black (or any matt colour)?

niclemaitre · Post by **niclemaitre** » Thu Aug 28, 2014 11:45 am

That rubber edging that goes on the doors rather than in the frame:
http://www.proautorubber.co.za/getmodul ... ode=PR1110

Froll · Post by **Froll** » Sat Aug 30, 2014 5:10 pm

Got the doors all fitted today and also fitted rubber seal. Waiting for the locks and struts then I can fit to truck and see if all is working right.

Oupa Stig · Post by **Oupa Stig** » Sat Aug 30, 2014 10:16 pm

Looks great, Roger!
One thing: I found on mine the rear door's hinges' rivits wore out... Vibrations, shakes etc are most pronounced there I'd guess, as well as the fact that that is the door I use most.
I just replaced the rivits with self-tappers. They seem sturdier.
Your door might be lighter than mine, and/or your rivits bigger. Just keep an eye on them.

Froll · Post by **Froll** » Sat Sep 06, 2014 9:50 pm

Got the canopy almost finished today. It is fitted to the truck with a few small things to be done. Will post more pics tomorrow when it is light ( and the truck has been washed)

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sat Sep 06, 2014 11:19 pm

Looking very good Roger!

Yep, the rivets do tend to take a bit of strain, especially with a lot of corrugated dirt road driving. Best solution is to do a combo of rivets and Sika-flex and small bolts for the hinges (either put double nuts on the inside or bur / damage the treads on the inside so that they cannot be turned out).

TOYODA · Post by **TOYODA** » Sun Sep 07, 2014 8:04 am

Mud Dog wrote:Looking very good Roger!

Yep, the rivets do tend to take a bit of strain, especially with a lot of corrugated dirt road driving. Best solution is to do a combo of rivets and Sika-flex and small bolts for the hinges (either put double nuts on the inside or bur / damage the treads on the inside so that they cannot be turned out).

+1

On the hinges for my canopy, I used M6 countersunk stainless steel bolts with Nyloc nuts and damaged the treads. Just to be sure I don't loose any.

Froll · Post by **Froll** » Sun Sep 07, 2014 7:31 pm

Froll · Post by **Froll** » Sun Sep 07, 2014 7:34 pm

Mud Dog wrote:Yep, the rivets do tend to take a bit of strain, especially with a lot of corrugated dirt road driving. Best solution is to do a combo of rivets and Sika-flex and small bolts for the hinges (either put double nuts on the inside or bur / damage the treads on the inside so that they cannot be turned out).

Thanks Andy, I did use sika-flex on all the plates as well as pop rivets. Will keep an eye on the hinges.

Thunder02 · Post by **Thunder02** » Sun Sep 07, 2014 7:36 pm

Job very well done

Now to kit it, so I hope the pics keep coming.

Ultred · Post by **Ultred** » Sun Sep 07, 2014 7:39 pm

Nice job!!!!! now lets see that canopy fill up with camping goods

Oupa Stig · Post by **Oupa Stig** » Sun Sep 07, 2014 7:45 pm

Neat!
Well done, Roger.
PS - I like the full size doors.

Post by **Haboob** » Mon Sep 08, 2014 12:24 pm

Very Good Roger

I am glad that you have finished your project and will be able to ENJOY the fruits of your labour.