Hilux 4x4 Forum

OK here it goes, a few piccies of how the bits and pieces are starting to look.

1st 1 is of how it looked when it arrived. The rest is how how it's looking now along with the ZEX hp pump and the old Dicktator harness.

I have just ordered the new harness as I feel it'll be neater and easier to work with.

And a huge thanks to all the guys on this Forum who have helped me in getting this far

Not long now and I'll be fitting it all, will post more pics as it happens.

Looks Brand New!!!!!

OK a little update,

Below is my swirl pot being tig welded, it'll be cleaned once pressure tested and painted so as to look all tidy and neat.

I'll post some more piccies a little later/tomoz once I have all the brackets and fixings done.

I have also just recieved my EMU back from Dicktator aswell as a new harness.

Looking good so far Zane ... all coming together.
Explain the swirl pot thingy .... injectors are on the individual inlet tubes of the manifold, so if it's to create air turbulence for better fuel evaporation, I would wonder how effective it will be since it's so far from the point of injection. Will the air still swirl down each tube?

Hi Andy

The swirl pot is only to ensure a constant supply of fuel to the HP pump regardless of the tank level and incline/decline of the vehicle. A glorified second tank due to me been paranoid of damaging the HP pump if run dry and the costs of replacing, over 1.5K for 1.

I'll post a better pic of the unit hopefully tomoz explaining my setup.

Zane

Ok ... so it's like a surge tank.

Never know what to call the thingy me bobbies all the time

Bretton put up a nice diagram on one of the posts a little while ago of how to set up your fuel supply. Put a low pressure pump at the tank to feed the surge tank ... from there HP pump tp fuel rail with the return going back into the surge tank. Very important to prolong the life of your pumps is to have a filter between the tank and LP pump and then another before the HP pump. .... But check out Bretton's post anyway.

Abit more, here is a piccie of the positioning of the surge tank.

It's attached to the LP fuel filter bracket, along with an additional bracket to the wheel well.

I'm going to fill her the weekend and test the brackets once the weight of the fuel is there as it can hold a litre of fuel. If need be, I'll add additional suppports to ensure a safe and sturdy pot.

As it's placed, it allows for easy access to all areas and also allows for neat/tidy routing of the fuel lines to where required.

PS.. I'ts still work in progress, this was taken while mocking up for the brackets, so please don't shoot me yet as I promise it'll look alot neater when finished :shifty:

Again I got a tad more time to get some things done.

I sprayed and mounted the surge tank and then decided to mount the HP pump and filter.

Afterwards, decided heck with it, and decided to start running the fuel lines I could and then the wiring as my new harness had arrived, defi worth getting the new harness as it is so much easier to work with and quicker.

So a few piccies, I can't go further, till I remove the carb and inlet and start mounting the EFI manifold so this should hopefully be done the weekend.

Looking nice, was fortunate to see this "in lewende lywe"

Zane, you may want to consider using those rubber 'vibration isolating' exhaust mounts for the HP pump, it makes serious noise through the body/chassis if not isolated 100%... been there done that:

viewtopic.php?f=41&t=5429" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Mr B

Cheers Bretton

The pump has a cushioning as a standard but yeah I am looking for a piece of rubber matting to use which'll work, I hope :roll: should have a piece by the weekend.

I'm also planning on putting in some heatsheilding plates as there is provision for the bolts in the wheel well already, this just to be extra safe from heat.

Rebel, we can dice when finished to see what you think :D :D

As long if its dicing up a hill

Update

Ok so I started on Friday 25th with the fitment of all, within an hour, I hit the first snag.

My exhaust manifold is the 1 with a huge hole in it for the intake heater bank, at this point after a few words, which I won't place here, I decided to pack up. Saturday came and at 5:30 I was on the go doing the family responsibilities until places opened so I could source an Inyati exhaust manifold.

After a tonne of calls and alot of driving around, I managed to get 1 with a few broken studs but Yippee I had 1.

I then finally got back home shortly after 12, I then proceeded to to clean the new manifold and put new studs in, Gotta love easy outs Upon trying to remove my exhaust from the existing manifold, I discovered that the ............ who worked on it before I baught it, had welded on the nuts, probs due to them being stripped.

Well 2 hours later and alot of pain, due to working in that little space with grinders and hammers, I managed to remove all. And time to Braai as family arrived. Sunday morning, started shortly after 8am again and things took shape quickly, by 2 o' clock I was testing all the sensors and TPS to ensure I had all correctly wired before fitting the final components. Only probs I had here, is that Vista on my laptop doesn't want to accept my usb to serial adaptor and I needed a different laptop with XP on.

By 4pm I started her for the first time, didn't run here long as I had n't fitted the exhaust back yet.

Monday, fitted the exhaust, and double checked all piping ect....

Time now for the truth, after battling awhile to get her to start and idle, it was found that the dicktator was reading my RPM's at 133,000 WOW alot of playing and testing and no joy, then came the hundreds of phone calls to various good men from the forum tryied all the given suggestions but still no joy.

Finally spoke to Chris from Dicktator, he in turn gave me a few options to go with, the 1 I ended up taking was to remove the dissy and send it up to him to test and setup as it appears the system needs better filtering of the signal. This left last night and should be by him today.

Verdict, I now await the return of the Dizzy and then hopefully after a tad more work and fidling, I am a proud owner of a 2.2 EFI Lux :D

Zane

nice

Maddoglips wrote: Only probs I had here, is that Vista on my laptop doesn't want to accept my usb to serial adaptor and I needed a different laptop with XP on.

Zane, when installing a USB/Serial adapter on Vista... Vista tends to choose a com port that the Dicktator software cannot read... usually COM 18 or 20... and the software can only read from COM 1 to 10... the fix is to manual set the COM port for the adapter like so:

Go to the Vista 'Control Panel'...
Double click 'Device Manager'
Look for 'USB/Serial Adapters'... could have the name wrong... but something like that...
Right click on the one that matches your make/model of adapter...
Select 'Properties'...
In the 'Properties' window select your preferred COM port... Vista highlights the ones in use... usually 1 and 2 is open... so I use 2 which the Dicktator software can see... click 'Ok' to confirm... depending on your PC's plug 'n pay capability you may have to restart the laptop...

I've got a Sunix U1925B adapter, installed it on my Vista laptop on the weekend for the first time... this procedure sorted out the issue for me! Once connected and working... remember to run the Dicktator calibration... a button on the 'File Options' tab... else your settings will not work properly!

Mr B

Cheers Guys,

Bretton, thanks for the advice, I tried all that, but couldn't get the software driver required to work.

Luckily about 1/2 hour ago, our IT guy arrived and managed to get me the working software driver after searching the net, gonna test it tonight now and see if it works.

Thanks,

Zane

Yes the adapter software driver is critical... I also ran into that snag at the first attempt... with no internet access at the time... :evil:

I have had issues with these USB-RS232 converters. Bulldog never seemed to pull right to me, he was quite dead up to 2500 RPM, and then suddenly surged with some power up to 3200 RPM and then seemed dead again. I reloaded the original map several times but the performance was not up to par and idling was erratic.

Sometime later I bought a second-hand Dell Laptop with a built-in serial port. I reloaded the exact same software again, this time using the Dell, and what a difference! The flat spots are gone, idling is perfect whether the air-con is on or off, and I've never looked back since.

USB-RS232 converters? Patooie!

Just thought I'd mention my 2⅛² cents worth.


Zane, did you use an original Toyota Coil in your distributor? The Chinese ones are prone to "harmonics" for lack of a better word and this could certainly confuse the Dictator or any other ECU. The original Toyota one does not seem to have this problem.


-F_D

Oom Eric

Thanks for the advice

Zane, did you use an original Toyota Coil in your distributor? The Chinese ones are prone to "harmonics" for lack of a better word and this could certainly confuse the Dictator or any other ECU. The original Toyota one does not seem to have this problem.

Unfortunately I have a Toni coil, which aint the original so I'm busy dreading the feedback from Dicktator at the mo as I recall this been mentioned in your Write up. I Hope this aint the case as original coils aren't cheap from the famous stealers.

I have also been told by NGK to try different plugs with better surpressors, so I should be getting them on friday.

As for the usb/serial adaptor, I agree with your opinion on them, got mine working last night so will try it for setting up, but when I'm happy that all is right, I'll use my M8's laptop with a serial port to load the final map before going to Dyno and then they must sort it correctly.

Thanks Zane

Hi Guys

I've been asked for a breakdown of parts required for this, so here is what I got.

EFI manifold complete +- R750
Exhaust Manifold (Inyathi) R450 May not be required if your manifold doesn't have the hole :evil:
Air temp sensor +- R200
Water temp sensor +- R50
Idle Control Valve stepper motor type? I haven't got 1, as as can't locate 1 here in PE 2nd hand(read hint, any 1 know where I can get 1 for a decent price ) and setup can be done without this, same as on the golfs, but 1 would be ideal +- R700 new.
Gaskets, exhaust/inlet manifold, the rest made myself with gasket paper from Midas
EMS with wiring harness, which ever you prefer, I used Dicktator and the unit new is +- R2500 with harness and software, PS every 1 has there preferance.
HP fuel pump and HP filter +- R1,500
LP pump, I'm using my existing mechanical pump into a custom surge tank 1 Litre and there's no way the HP pump will run this dry with the return from the rail going into it aswell.
HP fuel line and LP fuel line +- R300 depending on lengths
Sundries ie. clamps, sheathing, wire, heat shrink, solder ect.. +- R250

And if planned and no hassles, it can be done in a weekend.

Oh and budget about R1000 for the dynoing

Hope this helps and I haven't forgoten anything out.

PS. Bargains are out there and it doesn't have to cost this much, I've paid in total so far just less then R3500

Zane

The cost of the custom swirl pot

The cost of the midas gasket paper, ignitor box and dissi modification

The cost of keeping Swambo happy while you tinkler away in the garage... doesn't apply if the EFi conversion leads to divorce!

quote="OOM_B"]The cost of the custom swirl pot

Free of charge, used a old sleeve from engine reconditioners and some scrap plate lying around. OK I did have it welded at work so maybe some rods if doing it yourself.

The cost of the midas gasket paper, ignitor box and dissi modification

Ok here's the fun, Gasket paper and gasket +-R50, rest of the above, R0 as I'm only doing fueling and no timing at this point as even Chris from Dicktator says there's no major benefit. But should you wish to have that done, you will be looking at+-R150 for the mag unit for the dissy and R450 for the TP100 ignitor. If you wanted the mag fitted, you could send your dizzy to Chris, and he'll do it for free once you've payed for the Mag.

The cost of keeping Swambo happy while you tinkler away in the garage... doesn't apply if the EFi conversion leads to divorce! [/quote]

Priceless Bretton if you do know the answer to your question, PLEASE let me know as my hole just gets deeper

Zane

Zane, remember to use a good heat-shield between the exhaust & inlet manifolds. I used some fancy gasket stuff from Midas, expensive, but it works. I see your manifold has a metal shield fitted, not sure if that would provide sufficient insulation.


-F_D

Cheers FD

The metal shield, has a fibre/material backing with another piece of "foil" so I think this should be fine

If not, I can still put some additional sheilding in.

Your opion/suggestion is appreciated.

Thanks, Zane

Afternoon All

Will today I got my dizzy and a thingy maboby(see pics of pc board with resistors ect..) back from Dicktator, Many Thanks to them for there help , this should hopefully sort out the probs I have been experiencing.

So hopefully a bit later this aavies, I should be running around with EFI.

Wish me luck and I'll let all know how it goes abit later.

Have a great weekend All

If all fails... at least we know you got a lighter... that thingy mabobby... looks like a mag adapter...

Hey!!!!! I pulled that same thing out of my Digital Clock hanging in the living room.....

Good 1 guys, the "thingymebobby" could just as well come from a clock as it doesn't work

The lighter, will that works but the wife says the van is too close to the house and she doesn't want to clean the mess :roll:

Bottom line, EFI is p....... on my battery now, tried additional filters/caps ect.... but no joy still getting bad readings to the ecu :? :? :?

From all the test I have now carried out, it appears that the mag controller block in the dizzy is the fault, as when I remove the wires from the coil and leave it only connected to the signal wire, it still gives dodgy outputs therefore it defi can't be caused by the coil.

What I have now decided to do, is just bite the bullit and purchase the mag adaptor and ignitor from Dicktator and go the full route of letting it control the timing and fuel, HOPEFULLY this will help.

1 question I do have to those in the know, how come the rev counter is accurate? Could I also not maybe take the signal off there?

Well any how, hope every 1 had a good weekend and Thomas, at least you got some spares for your clock now

Update

EFI is complete on the the mechanical side all pipes valves ect...... done.

She's been standing for the last week and abit waiting for a gap on the Dyno, which has now come to light. I will be taking her down tomoz and letting her stay unitl tuned to perfection All going to plan, have her back Friday afternoon :friends: :gamer: :gamer:

Now that' Ive calmed down, I can mention a few probs I encounted.
1. seal on injector popped - this due to ME not thinking and putting it back with old seals, therefore had to strip top half off and fix :angry2:
2.ECU not bridged as requested/supposed to have been when sent away before starting to fit This later resulted in dizzy been sent away and coming back with a mag adaptor, for what reason? And still no joy. Eventually I managed to get hold of a reliable person who could come to my house and assist me, he found all the above to be wrong, and showed me right then and there, so no1 can argue this. Once he put the bridge in, rev readings were correct and vehicle started alot easier. This little fault, cost me 2 weeks(I'm no pro when it comes to this, just an average ok who tries to do what he can't afford to pay some else to do) of battling and endless stripping ect.........

Bottom line I'm happier now and will be alot happier when I get my Baby back running, the test drive I took, she already felt a tonne better, couldn't believe it tbh.Can't wait to feel how she's gonna run when back.

I'll post some pics of the completed conversion when she returns as I just need to do some final tidying up once they have finished setting her up and checking everything.

:evil: :angry2:

Just had news of another curve ball, while running on the dyno, 1 of the injectors decided to give up the ghost, so now we wait for another thing.

I must be honest and say 1 thing to those out there thinking of doing this conversion,

HAVE ALOT OF PATIENCE, I generaly don't and this is the down fall, it's not a hard job at all, just takes abit of time if you going to do it right, so don't set a date for completion.

Rather set out for when it is completed, it's right first time.

Zane

:veryhappy: :gamer:

Rusty is home and running

Gotta say it's a different ride all together, smoother and much better through the gears, and I don't need to change down all the time anymore.

On the dyno I get 190.6Nm @ 2000rpm and 70.5Kw at 4000rpm A little dissapointed but hey it's still alot more driveable then before.

I can't say what the fuel consumption is gonna be, will need to drive her around for awhile and see.

Now to start looking for the next project on her

Zane

Bly om te hoor Rusty is weer op die been en dat jy happy is. Geniet hom.

Cheers Trevor

Hoping to take her in the bush abit the weekend and test her climbing abilities now with the EFI.

Got a few nice challenges for her here in Malabar where she wouldn't have gone with the carb so lets see how it holds up.

hai so were can i get the complete efi manifold from or from which engine does it come from

Maddoglips wrote: ↑Wed Jun 30, 2010 10:52 am Hi Guys

I've been asked for a breakdown of parts required for this, so here is what I got.

EFI manifold complete +- R750
Exhaust Manifold (Inyathi) R450 May not be required if your manifold doesn't have the hole :evil:
Air temp sensor +- R200
Water temp sensor +- R50
Idle Control Valve stepper motor type? I haven't got 1, as as can't locate 1 here in PE 2nd hand(read hint, any 1 know where I can get 1 for a decent price ) and setup can be done without this, same as on the golfs, but 1 would be ideal +- R700 new.
Gaskets, exhaust/inlet manifold, the rest made myself with gasket paper from Midas
EMS with wiring harness, which ever you prefer, I used Dicktator and the unit new is +- R2500 with harness and software, PS every 1 has there preferance.
HP fuel pump and HP filter +- R1,500
LP pump, I'm using my existing mechanical pump into a custom surge tank 1 Litre and there's no way the HP pump will run this dry with the return from the rail going into it aswell.
HP fuel line and LP fuel line +- R300 depending on lengths
Sundries ie. clamps, sheathing, wire, heat shrink, solder ect.. +- R250

And if planned and no hassles, it can be done in a weekend.

Oh and budget about R1000 for the dynoing

Hope this helps and I haven't forgoten anything out.

PS. Bargains are out there and it doesn't have to cost this much, I've paid in total so far just less then R3500

Zane

Bulldog has an Idle Control Valve that came off a Golf. Got it at the local VW Parts place, G&H Motors.

viewtopic.php?p=9988#p9988


-F_D

Pity Zane is not part of this forum anymore! I used to love the projects he ran (most of them here in work time )