Draglink and rubber boots
- Sifu-Lux
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- Real Name: Andrew
Draglink and rubber boots
Anybody know of a supplier for the two rubber boots that protect the draglink balljoints
other than the Toyota stealer? Was quoted ~ R 500 a while ago.
other than the Toyota stealer? Was quoted ~ R 500 a while ago.
Last edited by Sifu-Lux on Thu Dec 04, 2008 8:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- ROOIWYN
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Re: Draglink rubber boots
Andrew,
just replaced mine with the halfmoon kits as well as 2x ball joints, total cost: R 380-00.
One problem they are outside Pta, N1 4x4, tel. 012 - 545 0200. I know they will courier it.
Marius.
just replaced mine with the halfmoon kits as well as 2x ball joints, total cost: R 380-00.
One problem they are outside Pta, N1 4x4, tel. 012 - 545 0200. I know they will courier it.
Marius.
Goed - Beter - Beste = ROOIWYN!
- Sifu-Lux
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Re: Draglink rubber boots
Thanks Marius, will contact them.
How did you get the ball joints off the pitman arm and the knuckle arm? Are these pressed on?
Do you have to remove the pitman arm?
Time for a quick replacement procedure with pics hey!!
How did you get the ball joints off the pitman arm and the knuckle arm? Are these pressed on?
Do you have to remove the pitman arm?
Time for a quick replacement procedure with pics hey!!
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- ROOIWYN
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Re: Draglink rubber boots
Andrew,
the work wasn't done by myself, work restraints, i had to ask a local engineering firm to replace them.
I do know that the original ball joints are pressed in and the pitman arm as well as the arm on the hub had to be removed, they struggled almost a full day to remove the pitman arm. DONT BRING ANY HEAT NEAR THE PITMAN ARM OR STEERINGBOX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This is where the engineering okes made a bugger up and I had to replace some seals on the box afterwards. The new ball joints were pressed in again and welded up for safety. All new again, the half moon kits can be fitted quick and easily.
the work wasn't done by myself, work restraints, i had to ask a local engineering firm to replace them.
I do know that the original ball joints are pressed in and the pitman arm as well as the arm on the hub had to be removed, they struggled almost a full day to remove the pitman arm. DONT BRING ANY HEAT NEAR THE PITMAN ARM OR STEERINGBOX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This is where the engineering okes made a bugger up and I had to replace some seals on the box afterwards. The new ball joints were pressed in again and welded up for safety. All new again, the half moon kits can be fitted quick and easily.
Goed - Beter - Beste = ROOIWYN!
- Sifu-Lux
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- Real Name: Andrew
Re: Draglink rubber boots
As I thought, ball joint replacement is not an easy job.
My steering has been developing more and more play over the last year, so today I decided to check the adjustment on the draglink arm. Found that the splitpin was missing from the front pitman arm end. I adjusted the paly with a screwdriver, but couldn't adjsut deep enough to get a splitpin though the holes. Steering was much better, so I left it at that. Now looking at the workshop manual I seems that somebody worked on the draglink before and assembled it incorrectly. I will completley strip it next weekend and inspect it to see ow much wear there is on the ball and half moons.
Front and back assemblies are not the same. See below for interest to others:
My steering has been developing more and more play over the last year, so today I decided to check the adjustment on the draglink arm. Found that the splitpin was missing from the front pitman arm end. I adjusted the paly with a screwdriver, but couldn't adjsut deep enough to get a splitpin though the holes. Steering was much better, so I left it at that. Now looking at the workshop manual I seems that somebody worked on the draglink before and assembled it incorrectly. I will completley strip it next weekend and inspect it to see ow much wear there is on the ball and half moons.
Front and back assemblies are not the same. See below for interest to others:
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- Sifu-Lux
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Re: Draglink rubber boots
Got a quote today from N1 4x4:
The halfmoon kits going for R110 + vat on a side
The L/H tie rod going for R190 + vat
The R/H tie rod going for R160 + vat
They don't have the rubber boots so its off to the stealer I suppose.
The halfmoon kits going for R110 + vat on a side
The L/H tie rod going for R190 + vat
The R/H tie rod going for R160 + vat
They don't have the rubber boots so its off to the stealer I suppose.
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Re: Draglink rubber boots
Andrew,
I bought my draglink kit and new boots for +/- R 300 - 00 incl vat from Toyota self, which i think was very resonable priced....
I bought my draglink kit and new boots for +/- R 300 - 00 incl vat from Toyota self, which i think was very resonable priced....
Johan Marais
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Re: Draglink rubber boots
Thanks Johan, will phone them tomorrow. I asked for a price on the boots about 2 years ago,and they quoted me ~R450 for just the boots, which I thought was really excessive.
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Re: Draglink rubber boots
Its a pleasure Andrew!!!
Just a quick tip, when you replace the draglink, remember to retighten the balljoints after doing approx 1000 km's as I have found my steering to all of a sudden to feel like it has to much play, turned out it just needed to be re-tighten again!!! Now I must have the wheel alignment done on mine!
Just a quick tip, when you replace the draglink, remember to retighten the balljoints after doing approx 1000 km's as I have found my steering to all of a sudden to feel like it has to much play, turned out it just needed to be re-tighten again!!! Now I must have the wheel alignment done on mine!
Johan Marais
- Sifu-Lux
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- Real Name: Andrew
Re: Draglink rubber boots
Well, the steering draglink saga continues... :evil:
I phoned 3 Toyota branches to get prices on the rubber boots and ball stud seats
Branch 1: Rubber boot: ~R 229ea, Ball stud seat (1 half) ~R 96ea
Branch 2:Rubber boot: ~R 269ea, Ball stud seat (1 half) ~R 106ea
Branch 3:Rubber boot: Not on Microfische or ever existed according to parts guy,
Ball stud seat (1 half) ~R 106ea
Bloody expensive!
So today I decided to remove the draglink and strip it completely to inspect it.
Well,
Pitman end, completely wrongly assembled by somebody in the past, also minus the spring seat. Knuckle end, all pieces there, and some extra, 2 x RSA 1 cent pieces as spacers Grrr So, I need to make a new spring seat for the one side, and therefore I suppose I'll make a new one for the other side to. One thing I see, is that the springs are not the same length.
Can anybody tell me if : a) the springs are meant to be the same length
b) if not, and I have the correct springs, then how long must I make the new spring
seat?
I phoned 3 Toyota branches to get prices on the rubber boots and ball stud seats
Branch 1: Rubber boot: ~R 229ea, Ball stud seat (1 half) ~R 96ea
Branch 2:Rubber boot: ~R 269ea, Ball stud seat (1 half) ~R 106ea
Branch 3:Rubber boot: Not on Microfische or ever existed according to parts guy,
Ball stud seat (1 half) ~R 106ea
Bloody expensive!
So today I decided to remove the draglink and strip it completely to inspect it.
Well,
Pitman end, completely wrongly assembled by somebody in the past, also minus the spring seat. Knuckle end, all pieces there, and some extra, 2 x RSA 1 cent pieces as spacers Grrr So, I need to make a new spring seat for the one side, and therefore I suppose I'll make a new one for the other side to. One thing I see, is that the springs are not the same length.
Can anybody tell me if : a) the springs are meant to be the same length
b) if not, and I have the correct springs, then how long must I make the new spring
seat?
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- Toybox
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Re: Draglink rubber boots
Hmmm, IIRC mine are both the same length. i had a lot play on my steering to i had longer springs made up by the local spring works. i hade them made 30mm long. no idea what the original length is....
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Re: Draglink rubber boots
Andrew, not much help I'm afraid, but this seems to be all that my Ellery's Manual has to say.
There's no mention of different sized springs but they do say you should replace the ball-joints as a unit, supposedly in kit form?
-F_D
There's no mention of different sized springs but they do say you should replace the ball-joints as a unit, supposedly in kit form?
-F_D
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Re: Draglink rubber boots
Thanks guys. Maybe somebody will have some info.
On closer inspection just now, I see the one spring looks reasonably new, possibly made
to replace an old spring.
The knuckle end seems to have spent some time without any grease before I bought the
vehicle, as the ball seats, spring and inner walls of the draglink and quite corroded and pitted.
This would not have happened had this been greased regularly.
The ball seats don't look to badly worn ( at R106 x 4) I think I will re-use them. They will just need a light sanding on the outside with some water paper. The other parts I'll get one of my guys in the machine shop to make me some new parts.
On closer inspection just now, I see the one spring looks reasonably new, possibly made
to replace an old spring.
The knuckle end seems to have spent some time without any grease before I bought the
vehicle, as the ball seats, spring and inner walls of the draglink and quite corroded and pitted.
This would not have happened had this been greased regularly.
The ball seats don't look to badly worn ( at R106 x 4) I think I will re-use them. They will just need a light sanding on the outside with some water paper. The other parts I'll get one of my guys in the machine shop to make me some new parts.
Sifu-Lux....I will miss you
- Sifu-Lux
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Re: Draglink rubber boots
You can get the parts on Aussy eBay here:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HILUX-STEERING-D ... 5001r12260
Quite reasonably priced, but the postage is the killer. Est $77 Aus
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HILUX-STEERING-D ... 5001r12260
Quite reasonably priced, but the postage is the killer. Est $77 Aus
Sifu-Lux....I will miss you
- Sifu-Lux
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Re: Draglink rubber boots
After much searching of the web, I remembered somebody mentioning getting hub seal kits locally from
Gemini Parts. Well, I phoned them, and ended up buying a complete new draglink with all the parts
complete for R 450.
Got it today, and the quality looks good. Part is made by Hwang Yu. Co in Taiwan. www.hwangyu.com
So if Korean engines work, why not Taiwanese draglinks
Gemini Parts. Well, I phoned them, and ended up buying a complete new draglink with all the parts
complete for R 450.
Got it today, and the quality looks good. Part is made by Hwang Yu. Co in Taiwan. www.hwangyu.com
So if Korean engines work, why not Taiwanese draglinks
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Re: Draglink rubber boots
Andrew,
Smart! Please take some photos of the replacement drag link as well as when you fit same and then post them here.
-F_D
Smart! Please take some photos of the replacement drag link as well as when you fit same and then post them here.
-F_D
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Re: Draglink and rubber boots
Here are the parts - I disassembled the draglink tonight as because I am particular ( read anal ) about attention to detail, I will paint it properly before I fit it. It comes just metal blacked, so it will get surface rust after a while.
Just a point which I picked up on these draglinks - they all seem to wear the same, generally from lack of lubrication. BUT, even if you grease them regularly the grease does not get to all the places due to the fact that as you grease it through the nipple, it just works its way out through the rubber boot. Path of least resistance. I really recommed to everybody that you rather take the draglink off, strip it, clean all the parts
and the lube them individualy with grease and then re-assemble the whole link. Should not take more than 45 min.
Just a point which I picked up on these draglinks - they all seem to wear the same, generally from lack of lubrication. BUT, even if you grease them regularly the grease does not get to all the places due to the fact that as you grease it through the nipple, it just works its way out through the rubber boot. Path of least resistance. I really recommed to everybody that you rather take the draglink off, strip it, clean all the parts
and the lube them individualy with grease and then re-assemble the whole link. Should not take more than 45 min.
Sifu-Lux....I will miss you
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Re: Draglink and rubber boots
On the SFA - it is far better to replace the balls with tie rod ends - and have a high tensile steel rod cut with threads in opposing directions for adjustment purposes. Mine runs on Isuzu KB350 joints
'89 Hilux DC 7mge Cressida Conversion
'96 Land Cruiser GX 4.5 OME Suspension, ECB bull bar and Warn Winch
'05 Subaru Forester 2.5 XS Premium
'96 Land Cruiser GX 4.5 OME Suspension, ECB bull bar and Warn Winch
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Re: Draglink and rubber boots
Arthur
Please give us more detail. Does the ball joints come in a pair with opposing thread. Do you have part numbers What is the length of the rod and tread sizes?
Cost Involved?
So by making it adjustable you can correct your steering on the drag link I presume?
Please give us more detail. Does the ball joints come in a pair with opposing thread. Do you have part numbers What is the length of the rod and tread sizes?
Cost Involved?
So by making it adjustable you can correct your steering on the drag link I presume?
- Sifu-Lux
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Re: Draglink and rubber boots
Ah Arthur, too late...
Here's the new drag link painted, greased and fitted. Colour coded to match the OME shocks
Here's the new drag link painted, greased and fitted. Colour coded to match the OME shocks
Sifu-Lux....I will miss you
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