Hilux 4x4 Forum

Hi All, a short while ago I replaced the condenser on my dizzy as one of the two wires had worn through and then arced and burnt. I couldn't get an identical unit from my local spares shop, so gyppo'd a generic 2 wire unit to fit. The original has a moulded rubber grommet which I needed to maintain the seal into the dizzy, so I cut and joined (by twisting together) the wires. Worked fine until lockdown. Went to the shops a few days ago, and bakkie did not want idle. Decided to finish the wiring job properly by soldering the joins, as I'm thinking I might have bad connections. I ended up having to remove the dizzy as I could not get one of the terminals loose. I made some notes to remember how it all goes back together, but in my stupidity, didn't take any photo's and my notes have proved to be confusing.

So, after this long winded explanation, my question is:- " coming from the harness are 2 wires, a Red and White. As far as I can determine, the Red wire is 12V+ and White is ground. Which one goes directly to the dizzy internals and which one has the condenser inline?" The way that I think it should be is White straight to dizzy. Red through the condenser.

Thanks in advance

Don't know if this will help you, perhaps trace the wires.

-F_D

Thanks Eric. I'll have to try and blow that picture up a bit as I can't make out too much detail. The one thing that I see though, on this and other diagrams I have looked at, is that they all show a standard coil, which I don't have in my system anymore. My coil is in the distributor. Once I've had a better look at your diagram, I'll try to model it to my setup. Thanks again

Show a pic of your dizzy ... should be able to help you.

Top pic is wiring from harness with new Molex plug, Red +ve switched by ignition, Black & White -ve (?) and Dizzy Cap
Middle pic is larger view
Bottom pic is #1new Molex plug, Yellow wire via condenser #4 to Brown on coil +ve #2. Black wire direct to Black on Ignitor (?) #3

Red through the condenser. Can check to make sure tomorrow.

Thanks Andy. I see you are quite the Night Owl, replied to my post past 11 pm. Yes, Red through the condenser to +ve coil is the way my confused notes pointed, and the way i have wired it. Put it back like that and car is now more deader than a door nail. I assumed that I could remove the dizzy and as long as I don't turn the engine, I could refit it without upsetting the timing. Now, not so sure anymore. When I took it off the rotor was pointing at 12 o clock, the only way I can get it to fit back in, is with the rotor pointing to 2 o clock or 8 o clock. How that distributor slot moved, I have no idea, as the car stood still. So I guess I will have to attempt to reset the timing.

Are you aware of any method to test the dizzy while it is out of the vehicle?

Found a previous post from Bretton, where he gives the resistance values of the coils. I will try that first. Is Bretton still around, haven't seen a comment from him in ages?

Bretton hasn't been around for quite some time. From what you are saying it looks like the ignition timing is now way out. It never quite works out once removing the dizzy to get it back on the correct spline when putting it back by eye. here's what you have to do ....

Remove the tappet cover. Take out the plugs if you want to be able to turn the crank easily. Rotate the crank to the TDC mark where neither the exhaust or intake valves on no1 cyl are rocking, i.e. both rockers are loose (flat position) No 1 cyl is the one that is closest to the front.

Remember it's a 4 stroke (2 revolutions of the crank for every power stroke) and the crank can be at TDC in 2 different strokes ... TDC compression (where you want it) and TDC exhaust. When it's at TDC with neither rockers 'rocking' (flat and you should be able to feel that they are not under tension), that's TDC compression.

When you have that set up then with the dizzy in place but loose and facing the way it normally does, create a marker for the position of the no1 HT lead plug of the dizzy cap. Remove the dizzy cap. You want to get the rotor to face that marker when the dizzy is slid fully in. This might require a few times of slipping the dizzy out, rotating the shaft and slipping it back.

An example could be that if the rotor is facing 90° anti-clockwise of the no1 dizzy cap plug mark when it's fully home then no matter where it faces after pulling the dizzy out, rotate the rotor shaft by 90° clockwise and then slide it back. You might get lucky and have it exactly in line with the mark when it's fully home or you might have to slide it out again and jump one or two splines before sliding it back.

Once you have the crank still on TDC compression and the rotor facing no 1 position on the rotor cap, lightly nip up the bolt to hold the dizzy. Put the plugs and the tappet cover back. Start the motor and advance the timing with a timing light to about 8 or 9° BTDC by rotating the dizzy.

Hi Andy, mega thanks for your patience and help, and to Eric for the diagram. It was a timing issue. It looks like you hit the nail on the head as I'm pretty sure the rotor was 90° out in a clockwise direction. I started from scratch to set the ignition timing, going on old posts on the forum and it started up first swing. Running pretty rough as I now need to get hold of a timing light to complete the setup. I thought I had one, but for the life of me cannot find it. Thanks again.

Oh, and also you were correct, it is the red lead through the condenser.

I changed distributors on Bulldog a number of years ago, and as methodical as I was, I reinserted the dizzie 180° out of phase. Took ages to get everything right again, but once I had rotated it another 180°, all was well!

I think I did post the experience somewhere here but of course I'll never find it now :)


-F_D

You can advance the timing by ear for now until you can set it properly and it will be drivable, just not optimum power and economy unless you get it exactly right by fluke. I can't remember which way to turn the dizzy to advance it but with the motor running and the dizzy loose enough to turn, turn it one way .... if it gets rougher and splutters then turn it the other way until it runs smooth. Carry on turning until the revs drop - note the position mentally - turn it back past where it is smooth and the revs drop again. Note that position mentally and then turn it back into the smooth band more or less in the middle of the two rougher positions. Tighten the dizzy and switch off. Watch your hands, arms in there with the motor running and don't wear any long sleeves that can catch.

Eric, I wasn't 180° out, but rather 90°. I really thought that by not turning the engine, I would put it back without disturbing the timing. I didn't realise that the slot to take the dizzy shaft, turns independently of the engine, and I think that if I had just turned it back to accept the shaft on the alignment i took it out, it might have worked. As it turned out setting the timing from TDC was actually rediculously easy, took all of 10 minutes, including the lining up of the shaft with plug 1.

Andy, yes, tried that and got it to run smoother, but I can't get it to idle without the choke. This was the reason I took the dizzy out to start with, and I'm glad I did, and cleaned up my previous condenser replacement wiring, but I think my rough idle has its roots somewhere else. Tomorrow I'll try to get it up to temp and try again. Today, I couldn't get the temp needle to move, even after about 10 minutes. I have a fixed fan, been on my to do list for 10 years, to change to viscous, but ja, one of those things.

Also very pleased to report that my 4Y is now running lekker smooth again. While browsing my Hilux files I came across the numbers of Bruno and Tarquin, who had posted them on this forum many years back. Dropped the van off yesterday afternoon and received a call a few hours later that it is ready for collection. Pleased to say that it was just timing and a little carb tuning that was needed. Very happy with the result and their service

Hi all
I need help with my gwm pickup
Trying to install a Std Dictator system on my 2.2 4y
Anyome here thst had succes?
I slso took of the crancksensor and cam sensor
Want to use the electronic distributor but mine has only 2 wires and i cant seem to get it to spark

You can browse how Bennie did my 4Y some years ago, might help you.

viewtopic.php?t=1172


-F_D