Honde/Dogs

[hentey]

Hulle se...(wie hulle ook is) dat n mens se karakter of persoonlikheid in jou hond weerspieel word.Vind dit bietjie moeilik om om te glo ja, maar nou ja vertel so n bietjie watter soort hond het jy,sodat ons kan bepaal of jy aggresief of rustig is.Ek het n Labrador gekoop so 3 jaar gelede,en wat n pragtige dier, sy speel met my 5 jarige dogtertjie en niks agro nie.
MAAR,n waghond is sy nie..........sy sal miskien n inbreker dood lek ja,maar byt.......nee swaer nee.
As my kind groter word dan wil ek n bulterrier aanskaf,en wat sal julle ouens daarvan dink.Laat ons bietjie hoor wat het die kenners te se.........of dalk n Rodesian ridgeback,of n staffie????

[CasKru]

Ek het ook 'n labrador en dan is die tweede hond 'n jack russeltjie. Ek persoonlik sal nooit 'n ander hond kan hanteer nie want ek hou nie van aggresiewe honde nie en nog minder van dom honde.

[legend35]

Ek het nie n agrisiewe hond nie maar wel n dom hond.Sit in die middel van die grasperk in die nag en blaf vir niks.

[Mud Dog]

Many years ago at one of the places where I work regularly there was a Boerboel female dog that was locked up in a driveway. Her owners had lost their home and it was supposed to be temporary thing while they found suitable accommodation. It never happened and they ended up in a flat, but every time when I had to work in that driveway the dog would initially be extremely aggressive, but later would not leave my side. After some three years I took her over with some persuasion, feeling very sorry for her. I have a very big garden (1853 sq.m.) and the dog loved it. She was like a bird freed from a cage. My kids were both young then and I was a little apprehensive having heard so many 'stories' about Boerboels, but those fears were soon allayed. Those kids could (and did) do anything to her. They rolled on the grass and wrestled with her and really played rough. The one thing I did notice is that she took over from the other big dogs (Rotweilwer and Rotweiler cross Dobermann) as the alpha dog. She only tollerated them and there were often squabbles one which resulted in the death of the cross breed. The original dogs had become accustomed to my African staff who could enter my yard unchallenged but that stopped with the advent of the Boerboel. Even to this day, some 8 yrs later they cannot enter unattended, three of them were bitten while trying it. Additionally four of my son's mates, my brother, my swaer, my nephew and mother-in-law were all attacked and bitten for trying to enter unattended. The dog knew them all well and they made the mistake of thinking that the dog's acceptance of them over the years meant they could just enter.

The Rotweiler passed on some 4 yrs after the arrival of the Boerboel, and we looked for a companion for her, but ended up giving her a litter before spaying her. No other dogs were tolerated so we kept a male pup who is now 19 months weighing 64.7kg. At the time of selling her pups we bought another female pup with the intention of breeding.

They are all extremely loving animals, but also extremely protective of us and their territory. They are obedient and quite easily trained. Their aggression toward strangers and 'outsiders' is fierce but quickly subdued once instructed to 'stand down' and they will actually seek attention from such visitors, especially the one's they are familiar with.

I am really impressed with the breed, did research on them, confirming their character traits. I am also a member of SABBA (SA Boerboel Breeders Assoc.). There is no other breed that I will ever own again .... it's like comparing Hilux's with Nissan's!!!

[Mud Dog]

Sit in die middel van die grasperk in die nag en blaf vir niks.

If my dogs bark, it's for a reason. If they bark at night (seldom) I get up because I know there is something going on. Usually it's some of the neighbourhood kids 'jolling' in the street, or a noisy drunk passing by.
Boerboels are not yappers.

[hentey]

Andy I was thinking of a boerboel as well,but my problem is explained in your reply,cause I also have staff during the day that have to enter my premisses,so that one is not going to allow it.However I share your sentiment about the boerboels not aggressive towards children(but only their family's children).They sometimes are over protective and WILL bite other children.With a boerboel on guard you dont have to lock anything.

[Mud Dog]

I used to have the occassional thing stolen from my yard ... kid's bicycle, hose pipe ... etc. Since the Boerboel ... nothing! We feel a lot safer in our own home. We once went away for a weekend and before leaving Swambo rushed back inside for something she had forgotten and actually left her keys in the front door. Everything was still cool when we got back ... keys still hanging there.
Yes I know that the dogs can be poisoned ... but they only eat what we give them .... found some poisoned food in the yard once ... was'nt eaten but the neighbour's Alsatian was poisoned at that same time.
The only drawback is feeding while we are gone ... we have to use an auto dispenser.

[Jack KZ-TE]

Hi, ek stem met die wat se dat jou hond en jy dieselfde persoonlikheid sal he. Ek het al n paar honde gehaad van wie dood is as gevolg van kanker en ouderdom . ondermeer 1 bullterrier, wat n pragtige hond vir my en my kinders. baie liefdevol . n kort been elatian wat ek opgetel het, was bang in die begin maar het mooi na ons gekyk .tans het ek 2 labrador x german shepard, 1 miniatuur doberman en n chinese crested . almal pragtig en het nie een van hulle al ooit na my kinders gegrom of gebyt nie maar sal ons verdedig teen enige een wat kwaad wil doen .

[Gertc]

In my dae moes jy altyd 2 honde gehad het. `n Grote en `n kleintjie.

die kleintjie is op en wakker en skree :o PLATSEUN :o PLATSEUN :o

en die Grote se WAARS HY WAARS HY

Maar nou ja dit was in my tyd!

[Bushwacker]

Sit in die middel van die grasperk in die nag en blaf vir niks.

Boerboels are not yappers.

Two of my neighbors have boerboels, and believe me, they yap yap yap yap continiously.
They should be called sh!tsoes, not boerboels :x

[Mr_B]

I learnt first hand how a guard dog makes you feel safer at home...

About a month ago I had to do the most dreaded thing any dog lover will ever have to do. Our beloved 'Tigger', a cross rotweiler labby(90% rot, 10%lab) had to be put down... she was 13 years old... about 4 years ago she developed arthristis in a hips, last winter it became so painful for her she couldn't walk properly, we assisted her with pain killers, vitamin supplements and a warm bed and let her have her last summer with us... before winter got into it full swing and the pain started again, we decided to put her down, cause anything else would have been plain cruel... it was a traumatic experience for the whole family... even our other 2 dogs Whisky and Sherry miss her, she was like there mom!

The evening after we put her down, when I was putting my son to bed... he asked me 'Dad who is going to keep us safe and look after us now?', of course this just broke my heart... made me realise that without me saying a thing Joel felt like Trigger was his protection at home...

B

[Riceburner]

Dogs are a neccecity, they prevent alot of crime from happening.

[Hannes.S]

Hi, Ons het ook n boerboel en daar is geen twyfel dat dit die beste wag hond is nie! Maar ongelukkig is hy nie meer die baas op die plaas nie! My boerperd wat net soos die honde rond loop op die werf, het oor geneem.
Ek moes al meer as een keer die tuin ingeneer gaan red waar hy spierwit met net krywa tussen hom en die perd staan!
Nogal n prentjie om te sien

O ja het gisteraand nog 2 staffie pups gekry (Dink Iraq is op hierdie stadium veiliger as saam met daai 2 terroriste)

[Mud Dog]

Two of my neighbors have boerboels, and believe me, they yap yap yap yap continiously

Piet, this is not characteristic of the breed. There is something amiss, perhaps the dogs are not recieving attention, they may be bored or something. I am in contact with many owners of these animals and none have that problem. Sure, they will charge the gate or front wall when they see someone passing on the closer pavement, and there is perhaps a warning bark or two and then it's over.
Also, any large dog should be disciplined and have a little training, even if it's done at home.
Bretton, get a boeboel replacement, you won't be sorry. A pup will grow up with the others and your family and be well integrated.

[Werner]

I have a Rottweiler and yes he is aggressive. But that is the way I like it....he is well trained in protection as well as obedience. Seeing that my dog is aggressive I wanted to do some protection training so that I can control his aggression when needed.....and trust me....it worked!!

So....I also believe any big dog aggressive or not should be trained.....

Rotties are BIG lapdogs and I love rotties.

He also barks when somebody walks past in the front....but not anytime.

Had an encounter with somebody in my yard a while back....he did not bark at all....just charged....needles to say I never had a problem with anybody after that. :D

We are thinking of starting a family and I will never get another dog but a rottie again....they are good with your own kids and kids they are use to.

[MARIUS NEL]

Wel wat n oulike tema,Ek het 4 honde 1x Boerboel (10)jaar oud nog reg vir n ongenooide persoon 1X boerboel Boxer x Wat n terroris is grou baie broot gate maar is baie B!@#$%^ERD vir die verkeerde party maar liefdevol met die regte mense,1X Jackrussel Die Generaal op die werf gee die boerboel so nou en dan iets om oor tegesels,en Laaste n Steekbaard wat my vrou se kom dierek van die duiwel af en baie swaar op hoenders en duiwe is.Maar ek is baie lief vir hulle

[Mud Dog]

Werner, my brother used to breed and show Rotties ... even had one or two SA champs in his time. He has stopped now .... takes up a lot of one's time if done seriously, but he still has about a half dozen or so. They're also excellent protection dogs as well as being good with kids although one of them for some reason will not tollerate his grandson ... don't know why. Perhaps when it comes to highly pedigreed dogs there is the danger of indirect interbreeding because of the limited genepool.

I still prefer my boerboels though. Slightly less 'wooly' coat and easier to maintain. More muscular frame, and in my opinion, nicer looking dogs.

Social skills and obedience are important with all dogs but especially for the bigger ones.
I have a 'home' training guide that I can post if there is interest.?

[Mr_B]

I still prefer my boerboels though. Slightly less 'wooly' coat and easier to maintain. More muscular frame, and in my opinion, nicer looking dogs.

I was considering a MudDog... but have heard the breed is temperamental, chows food, chew tyres to pieces, and you can never get there coat clean, always seem to get covered in mud... but they are good with children I hear!



I loved my rottie, she was the best!

[Werner]

MD,

Yes thanks....interrested in the "home training". Might come in handy to re-train the wife as well!!

My dog doesn't really like kids because some kids use to through him with stones at my previous house....seeing that he is 9 years old and not really use to kids that doesn't bug me to much....all he need is some good training for when we have kids.....but with a proper breeder you should get good tempered rotties 95% of the time.

My second choice will be a boerboel but SWAMBO does not like them.....first of all....they weigh more than she does (rottie is almost as heavy as she) and they slob to much as well.....my dog is always in the house when I'm there and she thinks he is to big....nevermind a boerboel!

Cheers
Werner

[hentey]

I learnt first hand how a guard dog makes you feel safer at home...

About a month ago I had to do the most dreaded thing any dog lover will ever have to do. Our beloved 'Tigger', a cross rotweiler labby(90% rot, 10%lab) had to be put down... she was 13 years old... about 4 years ago she developed arthristis in a hips, last winter it became so painful for her she couldn't walk properly, we assisted her with pain killers, vitamin supplements and a warm bed and let her have her last summer with us... before winter got into it full swing and the pain started again, we decided to put her down, cause anything else would have been plain cruel... it was a traumatic experience for the whole family... even our other 2 dogs Whisky and Sherry miss her, she was like there mom!

The evening after we put her down, when I was putting my son to bed... he asked me 'Dad who is going to keep us safe and look after us now?', of course this just broke my heart... made me realise that without me saying a thing Joel felt like Trigger was his protection at home...

Why you make my wife cry!!!!!!!!!!!Bretton?

[Werner]

I learnt first hand how a guard dog makes you feel safer at home...

About a month ago I had to do the most dreaded thing any dog lover will ever have to do. Our beloved 'Tigger', a cross rotweiler labby(90% rot, 10%lab) had to be put down... she was 13 years old... about 4 years ago she developed arthristis in a hips, last winter it became so painful for her she couldn't walk properly, we assisted her with pain killers, vitamin supplements and a warm bed and let her have her last summer with us... before winter got into it full swing and the pain started again, we decided to put her down, cause anything else would have been plain cruel... it was a traumatic experience for the whole family... even our other 2 dogs Whisky and Sherry miss her, she was like there mom!

The evening after we put her down, when I was putting my son to bed... he asked me 'Dad who is going to keep us safe and look after us now?', of course this just broke my heart... made me realise that without me saying a thing Joel felt like Trigger was his protection at home...

B

Always sad when somebody has to do that.....I cried like a baby when I had to put my Dalmation down and was only 2 years old.

[Jaws]

Ons het vir Obelix. Hy is nou amper twee jaar oud. Gekoop by Rynette van Mightyboerboele : http://www.mightyboerboele.co.za/dogs.php





Hy blaf net as daar regtig iets fout is en as my vrou by die huis kom van opgewondenheid.

Ek gaan stap elke dag met hom. Hy los my tuin tegnikus uit maar wil ons huis werker opvreet want toe hy nog klein was het sy hom met die besem geslaan om hom van die stoep af te hou nadat sy dit gewas het. Ek kan jou belowe dat hy nooit enige iemand in ons familie sal aanval nie maar enige iemand anders moet maar buite bly as ek nie by is nie.

Die ADT ou het so `n maand terug oor my muur gespring toe ons huis alarm af gegaan het. Hy het gelukkig net blou merke gehad want Obelix het hom net "geknuip" en nie met sy tande ingele nie. :wth:

Omdat ek gereeld weg van die huis af is vir werk het ons hom maar gekry want my vrou slaap baie beter alleen vandat ons hom gekry het.

[Mr_B]

Sorry man, when it comes to my pets I get very emotional too! To cheer your wife up Hentey... my wife is trying to get me into getting another Rotti... I wasn't a big dog person, until we inherited Tigger, she changed my mind...

She sent me this pic over lunch:

55767ge_18.jpg (7.6 KiB) Viewed 4429 times

M_D, Hoppy says to me a Boerboel is a not a good dog to have... I would need to install a diffloc, in case I step in one of those landmines, a major obstacle!

B

[Mud Dog]

They're cute .....

But so are these (show them to Swambo )

[Mr_B]

This is not right hey Niel...

Introducing Britney...





She's not like da udders!

:evil:

[Mud Dog]

[Jaws]

She's not like da udders!

:evil:

Good one Snipes

[CasKru]

geez Bretton, Britney is a beautiful dog

[Hoppy]

Mrs. Britney Snipes i presume?

[Mud Dog]

Ok, I got some PM's about the Home Training guide, so I'll post it here. Be warned it's lengthy, best copied and pasted to word word processor and printed.

Stopping Your Dog From Jumping Up
(Without Taking The Spring Out of Their Step)

Down Spot! Down Princess! Down Rover! ... Down Cupid! Down Donder and Blitzen! I've heard that command
many times, from many desperate dog owners, directed at many determined dogs. The jumping dog is a
universal problem, but a better understanding of what's motivating the behavior can go a long way toward
addressing it.

The Two Reasons Why Dogs Jump Up On People
First, and probably most common, is the jumping dog who greets this way. This can simply be from over
excitement - they "jump for joy." Dog behaviorists also point out that jumping behavior is partly instinctive.
Dogs lick each others faces when they want to give a super nice greeting, a likely reflection of lower ranking
members of a wolf pack licked the faces of the higher ranking wolves returning from the hunt. In addition,
puppies in a den jump over one another for their mother's attention. More specifically, puppies target their
mother's face, as a she typically regurgitates food for her litter, another reflection of the wolf pack.

Also, this behavior can be positively reinforced during greeting times, when a jumping dog is met by an excited
owner who immediately praises, feeds, walks and/or plays with their pet after getting "jumped," so to speak.
Jumping becomes part of this routine because it is rewarded and reinforced.

A second reason for jumping, which is less commonly the case, is that they may be trying to establish dominance.
Dogs jump up on each other through what's known as "teeing off." In particular, they rest their head or paw (or both
paws) on the shoulder of a dog they want to dominate and exert a bit of downward pressure. Because we walk on
two legs, we're more difficult to tee off on, but the motivation is the same. The dog may be trying to express
dominant status. In these cases, they often jump up once and more or less lean on you.

Identifying Dominant Behavior
It's important to identify this behavior by seeing it in the broader context of your relationship. First, realize that a
disobedient dog isn't necessarily a dumb one. If they don't listen to you, and push and pull you around, they may
have decided not to recognize you as their superior in the pack hierarchy (while still thinking the world of you as a
companion!). Whether it's male or female, a dog that consistently jumps on you may be exhibiting one of many
behaviors of the signs of Alpha dog.

If you suspect that the jumping is in fact an expression of dominance, then it is likely that your training will need to
involve heavier corrections. This just means you might need to do more than simply ignore the dog while jumping
and train them to Sit and Settle before getting your attention. For instance, water squirting, sharp "growling," or even
forcing the dog down and holding them down until they are still are all corrections that will short circuit this behavior.

Some dog owners don't mind when their dog jumps up to greet them - it is a most a dramatic and flattering hello to
say the least. And the last thing we want to do is convince our pets that they have no reason to be excited to see us.
We don't want to take the spring out of their step, so to speak.

But when the same dog jumps up on others, such as other family members or friends, it can be awkward and even
dangerous. A dog jumping up on strangers is always a bad look. The good news is a well-trained dog can learn to
jump up only when "invited" to do so by its owner. This is fine for playtime for instance. But let's learn the rules before
we break them.

Laying Down The Rules
During greetings, always try to prevent your dog from jumping up in the first place. Put your hand (or both hands) out
in front of you and hold still. A trained dog will be able to respond to this gesture reasonably quickly with repetitions.
As with any training technique, do not introduce any verbal commands UNTIL the correct behavior has been
demonstrated. Only when your dog gets down on his own accord should you start using the "down" command to
accompany the behavior. This is how they learn the command, by having the right action to associate it with.

For most, this type of prevention does not work right away, especially for puppies that lack enough formal training.
You'll have to know how to react when your dog starts jumping up. Mostly, this involves knowing what NOT to do.
For example, when you have a problem jumper, don't be over-enthusiastic during your greetings. This obviously
reinforces the behavior. And do not forcefully push the dog away from you. They interpret this as a form of playful
engagement. The result: dogs always push back. It's instinctive. The same principle is the reason for the majority
of cases where dogs pull on leashes: they are encouraged by the force exerted on them.

Turn your back and ignore the dog. And calmly ask him to sit. When he has calmed down, and ideally responded
to the sit command, then you can turn and greet the dog. If he starts jumping again, repeat the process. Be patient,
this is where you get to send a message mainly through your body language, and the dog will surely take several
trials to receive it. Often it is recommended that you stick your knee up and put the dog off balance, which is almost
a reflex reaction. Turning your back and stonewalling is better if you can manage.

One of the absolute best suggestions I give is to always greet a calm dog "at its level." Squat or kneel down, and
open your palms open toward the dog. This is a non-threatening posture that dogs very quickly associate with
impending praise. We all like when others try to meet us on our level. Dogs are no different in this respect. But make
sure they earn it first!

Avoidance is your best bet when introducing new people into your house. If you have established your position as
the dominant member of your pack, then your dog should never be allowed to position himself in front of you when
the front door opens. It's time for you to become the Alpha Dog if that's the case, which also means more training
for you. It is good practice to give a calm and firm "stay Down" warning in advance just before you open the door for
a visitor or let them into the house. Your dog will be responding to your sense of composure and assertiveness,
and start to truly believe that there is no real reason to freak out every time the door opens.

If you have tried everything to get your dog to stop jumping up on everyone, short of removing its legs, I only have
one more word for you. Exercise. I've said it before and I'll say it again, dogs need more exercise than we think
they do, and if they have no other outlet for their energy, they will find one, and that may include jumping up and
down on people uncontrollably. So keep those legs and lungs pumping. If you can't be bothered going for those
walks, you better have a good arm for fetch.


"Why is My Dog Ignoring My Commands?"
Why is my Dog Ignoring Me?
So your dog is ignoring you and you don't like that. Nobody likes being ignored. It even makes some people very
angry. They are the ones that tend to get ignored even more as a result.
It's quite common for dogs to ignore commands. Often owners give dogs very few reasons to listen and a lot of
reasons not to. A typical scenario might go something like this:
An owner is calling to their dog to "come," the dog ignores them; they call louder and with more venom; the dog
continues ignoring them; they start marching angrily toward the dog, clenching their teeth with all the determination
of someone not willing to tolerate this degree of disrespect (especially in public); the dog begins to crawl reluctantly
toward the owner, knowing their number is up; finally, the owner takes the dog forcefully by the collar, maybe even
throws in a smack or two for good measure, and issues another reminder of who the boss is around here.
Words cannot convey how backwards this is!
This "technique" may eventually get a result, but it obviously goes about doing it in all the wrong way. In the short
term, it stresses out your dog (to say nothing about the potential harm from physical punishment). In the long term,
this form of discipline establishes a relationship based on fear and threats, rather than a healthy serving of respect.

Your dog needs a leader, and needs to be able to recognize and respond to what we call "commands." But that
doesn't mean that you should be "ordering" your dog around. We create short, simple, and direct "commands" for
dogs because dogs don't speak English, not because they love to be ordered around in this way. Even though
you need to be the top dog, you don't have to make everything sound like a threat to establish your position in the
hierarchy. If everything sounds like a threat, you'll get nowhere fast.

We like to say that a dog disobeys commands mostly for one of two reasons:
1) They don't understand you.
Because dogs are responding more to your tone than the actual words you are using, if your tone contradicts your
command, you may not be giving your dog a clear idea of what you want him to do.
For example, let's say you have a dog named Bob that jumps up on you all the time. If you say "Get Down Bob,
get down" while at the same giggling and pushing him gently, almost playfully away, you have just communicated
to Bob the following: "Get down" equals "this game is fun, let's keep playing."

I see this mistake ALL of the time with dog owners.

Another related mistake is the practice of asking a dog to do something rather than telling. So, if you say, "Bob,
come here" in way that sounds more like "Could you maybe come here please? Then you are effectively giving
Bob a choice. So tell Bob to come. You don't have to yell or demand, just make it clear that you mean business.

Also, make sure your commands are simple enough. If you are blessed with a dog who understands "Bob, bring
me a beer from the fridge," then you don't have to worry too much about this one. Most of us, however, do. Keep
your commands short and simple. Make sure they don't sound too alike.

Lastly, it is always much better to pair hand signals with your verbal commands. In the first part of this course on
problem jumping, I talked about using a simple extended hand gesture to tell your dog to "stop" before jumping up
on you. My adult dogs are all to the point where I mostly use my voice when I want to "talk" to them. But when I want
them to DO something, I can make eye contact and use a hand signal to get them to come, sit, lie down, get in the
car, go inside or outside, wait at the curb, etc. Ideally, you'll get to this point as well, but you need to establish those
hand signals, and use them.

If you've worked through all of these possibilities and your dog still does not seem to understand you, then you likely
need more training. For older dogs, there is the added possibility that the hearing is going, so do consider that if it
applies. It's another case where hand signals can go a long way.

2) They are ignoring you.
When your dog ignores commands, it means they understand what you want them to do but are deciding not to do it.
But, you ask, how can you tell? How can you tell if your dog is in fact understanding the exchange but has no intention
of obeying?
The answer depends a lot on the body language of your dog. If they are showing signs of fear when you are giving
training commands (submissive posturing, avoiding eye contact, ears back, tail tucked), then it is more likely that they
don't understand. In these cases, owners can make the situation worse by being more forceful. By contrast, if your
dog is posturing confidently, and they do not appear stressed, then it is more likely that they have opted not to listen.
They may even be defiant - making direct eye contact, even barking at you, and running away when you approach.
This suggests a dominance issue. You will have to take active steps to establish yourself as the top dog, in addition
to being a fun person to play with. But there are also a few immediate steps you can take to have more success with
a stubborn mutt. Let's return to that all too common scenario of a wayward dog and the heard but unheeded command
to "come."
Always:
• use a positive, happy, even excited tone of voice.
• try squatting down when calling. Open your arms as if to suggest an embrace or praise when they arrive.
• if you can, try walking the opposite way. This forces your dog to make a decision: Stay and get left, or go home with
you and get dinner.
• Praise your dog whenever they come, no matter how long it takes.
• Praise your dog when they come to you without being asked. Create an environment in which they absolutely love
coming over to you.
Never:
• chase after a dog that won't come, unless safety is an issue.
• call your dog to you to reprimand them.
• call your dog over for something they clearly do not enjoy (getting their nails clipped, taking a bath, etc.).

One final word of advice: if you are still struggling with your position as leader of the pack, I highly recommend naming
your next dog "Boss"… "Come here Boss!" "Sit down, Boss!" "Go fetch Boss!" It's a most empowering remedy I assure
you!

To help you start with command training, I have listed down the steps to teach the command "COME". It is one of the
most important commands he will ever learn. It is also a command that will take a lot of time to successfully learn.
Begin by waiting until the dog is already approaching you, then when two to three feet away, say "COME".
When the dog gets to you, praise him. You should repeat this exercise as often as you can for several months.

As the dog begins to associate "COME" with a good thing, you can gradually increase the distance.
If your dog does not come when called, then it has not yet made the association of the word to the action.
Give him time, he will eventually understand. The key to success with this command is for the dog to always
associate the command "COME" with a good thing.

A common mistake made by novice handlers is they use a firm tone with the command causing their Boerboel
to associate fear with the command. If your dog fears you, its instinct will be to run away instead of coming near.

NEVER chase the dog when using the command "COME". He will feel, "WOW! He is giving me attention
and chasing me. This is FUN. Whatever he says, I am not going to him - he will keep running behind me."

Once you believe the dog understands the command, begin to reinforce it.

Put a lead on the dog's collar and allow him to run around with the lead dragging behind. Gently pick up the lead,
without your Boerboel noticing and say "COME". If the dog does not come, then gently pull the lead forcing him to
come. Repeat this test often.
Are you still paying attention? I assume that you are. But let's assume for a moment that you were not. There might
be several reasons for you ignoring me:
1) you might be distracted by something much more urgent or exciting
2) you may be convinced that something very unpleasant is about to follow if you obey my request to pay attention.
My tone of voice may even sound threatening to you.
3) maybe you paid attention last time, and nothing good came of it. No verbal praise, no rawhide chew, not even a
reassuring pat on the head. You really have *no reason* to listen to me this time.
4) or, maybe you just don't understand. In this case, you are not really ignoring me. The decision to ignore - after all
- is just that: a DECISION. If you just don't get it in the first place, you can't respond.

You see the point. All of these are reasons that might explain your dog's decision not to obey you, or indeed their
inability to do so.

Dealing with Barking (or, Why Your Dog Doesn't Really Want to Bark All the Time)
In terms of evolution, you can say that dogs bark because we want them to. When we began domesticating dogs
somewhere between 15,000 and 150,000 years ago, we saw the potential advantage of a very loyal and very vocal
companion, so we selectively bred barking into domestic dogs from wild wolves, which don't bark. We also
selected for all the sorts of traits we thought were cute, such as big eyes and flat faces. I'm not sure who was on the
job when they decided "loud" should be in this category, but that's what happened. Vocal dogs were prized and so
their genes were privileged. Consequently, certain breeds of dogs, such as those traditionally selected as watch
dogs, are known to be heavy barkers. You should always consider the breed proactively when getting a new dog
to possibly avoid barking related problems.
In any case, even when your dog seems to be barking at nothing, you can bet they're barking for something, even
if they're only barking for your return. (Continual barking that kicks in after you are gone for 20 minutes or so and
continues incessantly could be an indication of separation anxiety, a psychological condition that will require some
extra attention and training).
Rule out the obvious first: If they start to bark toward the end of the day, they could be hungry. If they bark after being
left contained for a few hours, they could need exercise (or perhaps a bathroom break). As many dog behaviorists
stress, dogs are social, pack-oriented animals, and since you (and family) now comprise the dog's pack, you can
expect your dog to make some noise if they are left alone for long periods of time.
Once you have ruled out the obvious, and given your friend enough exercise and attention, you can start to zero in
on training a dog that is still barking. You should try to identify causes. Barking will be caused by either an external
or internal stimulus. An "attention-getting" bark arises from an internal distress. A bark meant to sound an alert arises
from a passing person, or dog, or insect as the case may be.
You can address internal stimulus through training, such as either ignoring an attention-getting bark until your dog
settles, then rewarding his ability to quiet down, or holding your dog's snout firmly and asking it, gently, to "Shhh."
Again, reward the right response. In addition, you can often eliminate external stimulus through common sense. For
example, I dealt with a dog that moved with its owner from a house with a door knocker to one with a doorbell. The
dog was well-behaved and generally quiet. But the doorbell drove it into a barking frenzy. I suggested he remove
the doorbell and ask visitors to "Please knock" by way of a small sign where the doorbell used to be. Problem solved.
If your dog barks "at you" immediately after you've given them a command, then you have some dominance training to
do. They are talking back.
Nuisance Barking When You are There
When you need to curb your dog's barking, it can be a real challenge if the only time they do it is when you're not there.
Often, these dogs need a training program that will not only address the barking, but possibly a general case of
separation anxiety. However, you're in luck if they bark in your presence, as you can correct the barking with the right
timing, correction, and praise. Dealing with a barking problem when you're there may also help prevent it from
happening when you're away. There are several methods discussed, which each have varying degrees of merit:

Ignore, wait, and reward method. This is good for attention seekers, but you'll need some patience, and perhaps a
good set of earplugs. The important thing is to reward them immediately after they stop.

The squirt gun method. I personally don't enjoy carrying around a gun even if that gun is filled with water. It can be a
hassle, and if you're not a quick enough draw, it diminishes the effect. Note: a mixture of Citronella or water and
vinegar solution (one part vinegar to eight parts water) can be more effective than straight water when using this
approach. Aim for the chest, not the face.

The collar and leash method. Effective for dogs on lead that have been trained to respond to a tug and a corrective,
"Uh uh" or simple "No." You may find it easy to suppress barking through the same means. This is a good method.

But here's the absolute best and quickest:

Physical correction method. No, it is NOT the least bit violent, painful, or inhumane. When your dog barks, meet them
at their level, firmly wrap one or both of your hands around the snout (don't shake it), and repeat your corrective
command. I use a continual "Shhh" or a repeated "Uh uh uh uh." The idea is to hold on not only until they stop making
noise (they obviously can't bark with their mouth closed) but also until they stop resisting the placement of your hand
by jerking back or wriggling away. This method is effective also because it asserts your dominant role in the process.
Because it involves a physical correction, it may not be a favorite option for owners uncomfortable with this sort of
interaction. But I can only emphasize that dogs are not children and they feel more secure with a clear idea of a pack
leader they can trust. Whatever method you choose, only repetition will do the trick. Never yell. It's like barking back
at them. It just makes more noise. Though it's easy to tell your dog to shut it through an open window, it's lazy, and if
your dog is barking because it needs to tell you something, even if it's just that they want a bit more attention, then
yelling will upset and confuse them more. Expect more barking. As always, give praise when the barking stops.
All in all, you still need to allow your dog times to fully express themselves and their beautiful voice. It is not realistic
that you always ask your dog to stop barking every time they start. In fact, this can have dangerous consequences if
the dog needs to alert you to something but they have been discouraged from speaking up. Remember, if they are
barking to indicate the arrival of someone trying to sell their Tupperware or their religion, let them go for an extra minute,
and thank them after your visitor has made a hasty exit.

Nuisance Barking When You're Away
Ok, now it's time to talk about that difficult situation of a dog that only barks when you're away. Obviously, most problems
with barking dogs result from dogs that don't have their owner around to quiet them down. In fact, the owner's absence
in many cases is what's rousing the dog's vocal chords.
A lonely dog barking or whining can be a nuisance and difficult to address, but there are still some things you should
be doing. Try to come home more often, or try to arrange for a friend to visit, ideally with their friendly and energetic
dog. It may nip the problem right in the bud. Enough said.
If you know you've got a barking dog problem that has the potential to anger neighbors, a little public relations work
can go a long way. If possible, ask your neighbors if there is a barking nuisance coming from your place and, if there
is, tell them you're working on it. Then work on it.
You might also try staging a false exit. Walk once around the house or whatever it takes for your dog to think you're
gone. When your dog barks, correct the behavior with a "Quiet" command (though your sudden reappearance will
likely be enough to stop them anyway).
You can use special bark collars, that either use sonic or electric power to correct your dog. Other collars squirt a
substance such as citronella when they bark, a scent they despise. I don't use them, and the ones I have seen in
use were awkward and not 100 percent effective. But I stay away from them less because they train through discomfort
(they do not harm your pet), and more because they displace the source of authority from you to some device that they
don't really understand. Furthermore, they don't differentiate between acceptable - even necessary - barking on one hand,
and noise pollution on the other. And that's not good. There's also a medieval-like procedure whereby the dog's
voice-box is removed to render them barkless, or at least takes the bite out of their bark. This is abhorrent.
A better option for desperate dog owners is arranging some form of doggy day care, whether it's a professional service
or a personal arrangement. Some dogs simply do not get enough stimulation during the day, and they will let the world
know about it until they do.
Barking is a dog's most overt mode of expression. They bark to express themselves to other dogs, to other people, or
simply to express their deep sense of emotional angst when they are all by themselves. I often get dog owners who
have no trouble getting their dog to quiet down when they are around, but have all the trouble in the world keeping their
dog quiet when they're away - at least this is what their neighbors tell them.


Pulling on the Lead: a Better Solution
On any animal bloopers or funniest home video show, you are likely to find some sort of slapstick scene of a dog
pulling on a lead. Often this will involve a very large dog and a very small owner. In the last one I saw, there was a
family on a camping holiday that tied their dog to their tent. It saw something it wanted to chase. Enough said
Dogs pull on leads as a matter of instinct. As hunting animals, they live for the chase. So often they pull because
they are in pursuit of something (a cat, squirrel, or another dog). But there are other reasons that are just as common.
It's possible that they are uncontrollably over-excited about their daily session of quasi-freedom. And it is possible
that they see themselves as the dominant animal in your family. In this case, they see you as the one who is being
disobediently slow. Whatever the reason, the traditional method of addressing the issue of pulling on the lead is more
or less the same. It involves a series of repeated interventions whereby:
1) The dog pulls on the lead
2) you stop,
3) issue a sharp verbal command ("uh uh"),
4) and a quick tug back on the lead.
5) You start walking again.
6) Repeat.
This training technique works eventually, provided there is enough repetition. But in the short term, your walks are
not likely to be very long at all!
Another "traditional" solution to this problem is the use of choke chains and collars, a method that, thankfully, is
now deemed to be unnecessary and outdated in the professional dog training community.
There are some innovative training techniques around to address the leash pulling problem. One that comes to
mind in particular is the "random walking" method demonstrated by professional trainer Susan Morton in our
Kingdom of Pets Dog Training DVD Series. The concept is brilliantly simple: a dominant or over-anxious dog can't
pull on the lead if he doesn't know which direction he's heading, and if that direction changes often. You'll have to
check out the DVD to find out exactly how to make it work for you.
There is more good news for dog owners who are tired of their dogs yanking their chain, so to speak. Leash and
collar technology has advanced enough to offer dog owners a few alternatives to solutions to the pulling problem:
Head and Harness Collars
When I started training dogs, head or "harness" collars were new on the market and all the rage. Premier Pet Gentle
Leader Training Dog Collar® and the Halti Training Head Collar® are the two best known types of dog head collars,
and are often discussed interchangeably even though there are slight differences in the design and they are made
by different companies. Because I have used the Gentle Leader® extensively, though not exclusively, in my own
experience, I will focus on it.
What is it? As opposed to traditional dog collars that go around the neck, the Gentle Leader® is a head harness
that consists of a nylon nose strap and neck strap. The lead is attached to a ring at the end of a short strap that
extends under the chin.
How does it work? Both straps are designed to have a specific function. The nose loop is intended to mimic the
practice of demonstrating pack dominance between two animals by firmly taking a dog's muzzle in their own. The
neck strap is intended to relax and calm the dog by mimicking the practice of a mother grasping her pups by the
back of the neck. In addition, the strap applies pressure to the back of the neck instead of the front of the throat.
Dogs tend to respond to an applied force by exerting an opposing force, which is why they often respond to a
backwards pull of lead with more pulling! The Gentle Leader® is designed to reverse this behavior, and arrest
forward movement when force is exerted on the neck. Most importantly, the lead allows the owner to control the
head of the dog, and - not unlike a horse's bridle - if you control the head you control the beast. How effective is it?
In my experience the Gentle Leader® is extremely effective in correcting pulling, lunging, and jumping. I found it
particularly effective with owners who like to run with their dogs, but need to keep them in line on populated paths
and trails. It can be used to facilitate the basic obedience commands such as "sit" and "down." Although the product
information notes that the collar will stop unwanted barking (through a quick tug of the lead that closes the dog's
mouth), I found the lead less effective in this regard. Perhaps the best thing about this form of lead is that you are
constantly training the dog without the need for constant commands. In addition, you are reinforcing your role as the
leader. You stop, they stop, simple as that. In the majority cases, owners who start with the Gentle Leader® from an
early age wind up going back to a straight lead after several months - or even have their dog comfortably off lead
when they are able to. That's important, as it demonstrates how effective it can be as a training tool.


Potty training is probably one of the first issues, that people worry about most, when they adopt a new pet dog. I'm
sure you, as a dog owner, don't like the idea of a messy floor or stained carpets after you are back home from work.

You should start potty training your dog from the day your bring him home because initial over indulgence may ruin
his habits in the long run.
The first step is to choose the housetraining method you think will be best suitable for you and your pet. Your
housetraining methods should be based on how you can prevent your dog from eliminating at wrong spots and not
on cleaning up the mess after your dog has committed the act.
Whether it is outdoor potty training or indoor housetraining like litter box/crate training, paper training, wee pad training,
or diaper training - whatever you decide upon, always stick to it. For successful potty training, you can go for any of
the basic methods given below:
- Paper Training Method
- Crate Training Method
- Litter Box Training Method

These methods usually work well for all dogs, irrespective of their breeds. Problems may occur if the dog is aged
or if he has been abused previously. Such cases need time and human patience.
Always keep an eye on your dog. Don't wait for your dog to tell you that he needs to eliminate. Rather, try to
understand him yourself through his body language. Follow a proper schedule. Make sure your dog eliminates
after he gets up in the morning, after every meal, play and exercise session. Don't blame your dog for the accident
if you are not watchful.
Always remember to have some verbal communication with your dog for better potty training purposes. It is an
excellent idea to always use some cue word or phrase like 'go potty', 'outside', 'business' when it is time to go to
the bathroom. Whatever you choose, make sure you and everyone in the family uses the same word, all the time.
Don't forget to praise your dog when he eliminates at the designated place. It is also a good idea to treat your
dog on occasions. But make sure you don't overdo it. And always use positive reinforcements to correct his act.
A firm 'no' or shaking a can of beans will startle him enough to stop his act.
Do not scold, shout or even beat the dog for causing 'accidents'. They are bound to happen. Many even keep
their dogs outside all day and night only because their dog starts to eliminate the moment they are brought indoors.
A dog never understands punishment. Your poor pet will never realize the reason why you are scolding him.


Aggression
Aggression that is expressed toward strangers and other dogs, both of which can be really stressful for dog owners
and cause real problems. What you'll find out is that aggressive behavior is just as stressful for your dog, and it's
actually your responsibility to teach him or her that the behavior is not only inappropriate, but also totally unnecessary.
Why is that exactly? I'll tell you. But first let's make sure we know what we're dealing with when we see it.

Signs of Aggression
Most people, whether they are dog owners or not, do not recognize the signs of aggression until it is way too late -
until a full-blown dog fight starts or a group of rowdy children are told in no uncertain terms by an annoyed animal that
they have crossed the line.
The common signs of aggression are growling, snarling, barking, curled lips, lunging and an overall menacing posture,
where the dog is tensed and ready to snap. (Note: there is also something known as a “submissive smile” exhibited
by some dogs, whereby the animal actually shows its teeth as it approaches. I’ve seen this behavior confuse many
owners, but it can be dismissed as such by the dog’s lowering its head as it “smiles,” and often wag its tail too). There
are other indications, such as jumping or mounting or even standing in your way that are much less of a problem and
often go ignored when not accompanied by the other more severe signs. But all of these are also very obvious and
advanced manifestations of aggression. Being able to recognize the behaviors that lead up to these signs will go a
long way. For example, dogs unsure about meeting someone new (human or canine) will approach hesitantly and
"circle" their opposite. You may likely even see distrust or suspicion in their eyes (with some of the whites showing).
Dogs also have two areas on their back, their "hackles," where they are able to raise the hair on their coat. Located
between the shoulders and just above the tail, raised hackles will be more obvious on some dogs than others
depending on the coat, but it always means a very heightened state of awareness and excitement, and is the prelude
to aggression. So, even though raised hackles do not automatically mean aggression, it means you should pay
attention and do your part to ensure that there is no reason for the situation to escalate into an aggressive one. What
is your part exactly?
Your Role
In most cases dogs become aggressive because they don't know what else to do. The reason they don't know what
else to do is because there is no one else there to tell them or show them what to do, or even assure them that they
should do NOTHING instead. In the absence of your guidance and leadership, they are forced to make all these
decisions on their own. That's not only a downright dangerous position to put them, it's also unfair.
This is something that professional trainer Brian Heward explains quite well in the Dog Training DVD Series that we
have put out at Kingdom of Pets. He talks a lot about establishing your role as leader. Now everyone knows how
very important it is to position yourself at the top of the "pack" in your hybrid family of humans and dogs. But Brian
really makes sense of why it is in fact *more* stressful for a dog who is a dominant "Alpha" dog but really does not
want to be. When a dog's role is not made clear by his owner, the pressure is on the dog to protect his owner, protect
his territory, not to mention protect himself so his own role does not come into question. That's a lot of work and a lot of
worry. And the result is all too often an aggressive dog that really does not need to be that way. Punishing a dog who
is ultimately trying to watch out for everyone inevitably makes things worse.
To give you some examples, now that you know what aggressive posturing looks like, if you see these signs in another
dog, AVOID that dog on your walks. At the same time, keep your confidence and your nerves intact when you do: your
dog is sensing every last bit of your anxiety, and perhaps even feeling it (how many times have you seen tense owners
pull in their lead for dear life when you walk by with your dog?). Just tell your dog that you'll be taking a wide berth, and
walk calmly past. If there's not enough space to do that even, have your dog on a "sit" command and place yourself
(the leader of the group) in between yourself and the suspect dog as it walks past. If the owner does not keep their dog
under control, you might even let them know about it.
The opposite applies: if you come across a dog that is exhibiting playful and friendly signs, TELL your dog that this is
a "friend" and that a greeting is ok. If possible, I've found that it works well if you greet the dog first, then "ok" the mutual
canine greeting second. All in all, you need to communicate to your dog what is a genuine threat and what is not, and in
reality, there is not all that much in this world that should be a genuine threat to your dog if you're doing your job as the
boss. More than that, you need to communicate in a calm yet assertive manner. It's about body language remember.
No matter what you SAY, if you ACT like you're freaked out, your dog will do the same.
As Brian says, our world does not equal a dog's world - our world is much bigger, much noisier, and indeed, much
scarier. But it is our world that we've asked our dogs to live in. Not only that, we've asked them to behave in it too. All
the more reason they need the right sort of guidance.
You should always be able to recognize aggression and deal with it appropriately. Aggression is always one step away
from a dog bite, which is itself one step away from a vet bill and a lawsuit.

Socializaton
A lesson on dog aggression would not be complete without at least a brief discussion about the cornerstone of dog
obedience: SOCIALIZATION. Socialization just means letting your dog figure out how to behave in social situations
by regularly putting him or her in social situations. This starts right from the puppy days. Your dog needs to interact
with other dogs and other people absolutely as much as possible. Dogs that are not socialized with other people and
other dogs are very often the same dogs that have aggression problems.
When your puppy has play sessions with other dogs, keep an eye out for dogs that will get along with yours, and make
a point of seeing these dogs again. But also let your dog interact with other dogs - older and bigger dogs - who will
keep your dog "in line" if he or she happens to be exhibiting dominant behavior. On the other extreme, do not let your
dog hang out with other dogs that tend to roughhouse too much or bully yours around to the point where they are
causing the dogs stress and stunting confidence. Dog socialization is a hugely important topic, and it's one that Susan
Morton, the dog trainer who co-presents the Kingdom of Pets dog training DVDs with Brian, has a lot more to say about
in those videos. She'll tell you all about how to choose your dog's friends wisely!
Remember, the more familiar a situation is to your dog, the more comfortable they will be - "human animals" are exactly
the same! - and the less they will need your guidance and instruction. If your dog sees no one aside from you for most
f the hours of most days, and sees very little outside the confines of your own backyard, can you blame them for acting
a bit strange when they actually get out into the big wide world?


Dealing with Your Dog's Digging

When you come home to find holes all over your lawn, and you have a dog, there may be a correlation there. But
don't bother trying to confront your dog after the fact. Punishment after the fact is widely known as the least effective
and potentially most damaging form of dog training on earth. Even if you bring your dog to the spot, hold them by the
scruff of the neck, and scold them while you direct their head deep into their handiwork, they won't have any idea what
all the fuss is about.
Instead, take a deep breath, and complete your after work wind-down routine. Then, calmly return to the back yard to
locate your dog, with the intention of asking a few questions about their habit of excavating your property.
Question One
If you are unable to locate your dog, AND the holes in your lawn are all found right along the bottom of your fence line,
then you may not need to ask the first question, which is, "Are you trying to escape?" If your pet is not "fixed" (neutered
or spayed), then they may be entertaining their roaming instinct. They will return, and they may even bring a whole family
with them when they do.
Question Two
Another possibility is that your dog is digging to freedom in an attempt to find you. If your dog is near or even
somewhere on your property when you return from a period of absence, they may in fact have separation anxiety issues,
which you'll have to treat directly. Once you do, the digging will be an afterthought.
Question Three
If your dog is there, your next question to ask is, "Are you getting too hot back here when I'm away?" We all know that
dogs pant when it's hot. But they also like to burrow, especially when there is not a spot of shade in sight. So you'll
need to rule this out as motivating factor for your dog's digging, and make sure they have a place to stay cool.
Lastly, you'll have to ask your dog, "Are you burying your stuff?" This is simply an old habit that stems from the fact
that their ancestors often killed more than they could eat in a sitting. This habit may be tough to break, but try changing
the range of treats you leave with your dog when away. For instance, a massive juicy bone may be a great treat for your
dog when you're around, but might be something you don't leave with them when you're gone.
You may have to change the dog's access areas, or fence off an area that you'd like to keep for the kid's soccer pitch.
You can also try setting up a dirt area or sandbox where digging is allowed and encouraged. Many dogs are wild about
sand, and you can even attract them to the area by burying treats in the sandbox. I've seen this work well.
In the grand scheme of dog obedience problems, however, this should be more of a nuisance than anything. Often I
remind dog owners that it's more than likely their grass will forgive the dog, and that having a healthy and happy pet
sometimes comes with the sacrifice of a perfect lawn.

***

[BenHur]

I used to own 2 Boerbulls and now have a Labrador.

The Female Boerbulls we adopted from the Animal Anti Cruelty league when she was about 18 months old, or let me rather say when checking out the dogs there, "Lady" adopted my wife, would not leave her side. She was an abused dog very shy did not respond to anyone even at the AACL but just connected to my wife initially and later warmed up to me as well. The loveliest personality evolved over the next few months as she "healed" from the previous abuse. She was a huge thoroughbred but with the gentlest of manners, except if someone would come close to my wife she would go over into attack mode. Never barked unnecessary but we also felt well protected.

Then after our male dog "Jack", which was the actual fighter protector territorial dog ( a lab/bull-terrior x which was Charmaine's dog from before we got married) became very old, we got another 6 month old Boerbull pub "Bruno" from from friends. He was a cocky bastard to start off with, at about 12 months old he challenged the old dog who did not want to step back and he took him apart. That evening when I got home I found the old dog cut bruised and swollen in a horrible state, and I had to take him to be put down the next day when I realised he was FUBAR. I cried my eyes out driving him to the vet. Then a few years later when Eddie was born and sarted crawling I saw Bruno pulling his lip back at Bruno and Lady stepping in between to Protect Eddie.

The second time this happened I said to Charmaine, "that is it - he is out of here he overstayed his welcome long enough" He was never friendly or warmed up to us. He challenged me a once or twice but after I knocked him out cold with the fist one day he realised I was the Alpha dog around here, but he still did not respect Charmaine's authority. So I took him to the SPCA and left him there to be adopted or put under. I cant believe how 2 of the same breed of dogs can differ so much in personality. Lady would not allow Eddie near the pool she would walk in front of him if he tried going close all instinctively but Bruno could not give a damn about anyone.

Thereafter we got the Labrador puppy called "Sandy" and eventually we had to put Lady down when she was about 11. She also suffered from Arthritis and could later not walk or even get up any more and shrunk from about 70 kgs to 35kgs when I had to take her to the Vet for the last time, another one of those Snot and trane days. Now we only have the Lab, very intelligent and our 3rd kid in the house. She is just as naughty as the kids, alwasy up to mischief with them. She would never dig anywhere in the garden accept in the sandpit with the kids, also she knows that she is not allowed in the house but every now and again I would see her sneakingly leopard crawling into the kids room when they are in there busy playing.

The positive points on the Lab is that they are not as colossal as the Boerbulls so they can be kept in smaller places and are less damaging to your garden, and eat (and excrete) less.

The negative is that they are not good guard dogs at all, but to us we actually prefer it that way I do not need a dog to protect my house we have "divine protection" (see Psalm91)

Britney

Your yard is too small for a Boerbull you will have to walk him daily or else he will destroy the place. A Lab is a better choice for you, but do make sure they stay active as well else they become fat and lazy. Mine is now about 4 years old, still very active even gets onto the window still every morning to stick her head in thought the window to greet us when we are still in bed

[Mud Dog]

Your description of Lady's character embodies the Boerboel traits, and are reflected in all three of mine.
Bruno? Who knows ... could have just been plain otherwise, a rogue gene, a character altering experience before you got him (I'm not knocking the breeder, but their 'formative years' start in the first week, and a lot depends on the mothers character and handling of her pups). Nonetheless he is an atypical example of a Boerboel.

[Mud Dog]

Labrador guide dog

guide dog.jpg (30.58 KiB) Viewed 4320 times

[Mud Dog]

Hmmmm .... perhaps a useful idea for those of you with 'that problem' ...

[BenHur]

Jis Andy maar jy is 'n stoutgat

[Mud Dog]

Kannitie helpie

[Dadz Toy BFI]

I've no compassion for daft dogs and their irresponsible owners; which in my experience (as a simple mobile trades-person) is 99% existent in the City residences. People buy huge aggressive guard dogs then keep them in small Urban dwellings as "they've no option with this intolerable crime rate, yada yada yada) :roll:

I've lost too many tools and been mobbed too many times by jumping dogs far too many times to recall. :x

Opposite our house is a school which attracts dog owners who exercise their animals there in the evening.
There's constant doggy fights and their owners pathetically try to exert control, but their dogs just run-riot, it's a very sorry sight and sound. If their Owners knew how dof they look and sound they'd die :roll:

Then the piste-de-la-resistance: toxic land mines welcome the kidz the next day, some people nê :x

Every now and again a sly local will let their dog loose down our leafy cul-de-sac and leave land mines without any care in the world. :evil: :evil:

Have you ever washed doggy doo off a toddler, if you have you'd have some compassion :evil:

My vrou would love a family dog but I'll not agree till we have a suitably sized plot and the boys are of an age were they can responsibly look after their needs. :|

[Scorpion]

I have 3 thoroughbreb Labs in Jo'burg and 3 Boerbuls on the the farm. I love them to bits. The Labs are the most intelligent creatures and seem to always know how to please. But I have to warn you, they need lots of exercise and attention, or they will become destructive. They also definitely need training (as with any large dog) or they WILL drive you insane! They are lovely with kids, except that they don't always pay attention when they are playing and will run over your baby/toddler. Mine is actually quite interesting as the white male is very awake and a very good guard dog, but the 2 black ones are useless!

On the farm I have a thoroughbred female Boerboel; the male is a BoerboelxChow and a female pup from their first (and last!)litter. The females is absolutely awesome with kids! My daughter can sit on them, pull their ears and generally do what she wants with them and they just play along. They are also very protective, and although very well trained will not listen and leave your side if their are "unknown" people on the yard. They are generally not allowed in the house, but WILL come into the house and will not leave if these "unknown" visitors come into the house. Our African workers care for them during the week and they have no problem with them, but when we come that totally changes and they bark when they enter the yard and are not allowed to come too close to us.

The male on the other hand is totally useless and his days are numbered after he snapped at my daughter this past weekend. :evil: I would have shot him there and then if my wife didn't beg me not to. Unfortunately I cannot get him into the car to take him to the vet, so this grim job still awaits me when I get back from Europe. Even though he is useless, I still love him and it will break my heart to do it, but unfortunately I will not take a chance on this 70kg dog taking on my 2 year old daughter. I know I will cry my eyes out when I do it, but unfortunately that is the way life is...

[Mud Dog]

Johann, I am always very wary of the temperament of certain large cross breeds ... Boerboels are included, even though I swear by them, as are Bull Mastiffs, Rotties and German Sheppards. Dobermans funnily enough seem to be OK as a Xbreed.

[BenHur]

Johann

You are doing the right thing. I said to my wife I am not going to be one of that parents that cry afterwards "why did this happen to my child?" when I knew full-right beforehand that the dog had an aggressive temperament towards my kids. I got rid of him as soon as he started his trouble. It may be sad to do so but if your precious girl gets attacked it will be much worse, better safe the sorry I believe.

[Mr_B]

...but if your precious girl gets attacked it will be much worse, better safe the sorry I believe.

You mean 'attracted' Bennie?

I had a friend at school who got bitten in the face by a BoerboelX... not nice... he has a nasty scar on his face to prove it!

B

[BenHur]

Bretton

what are you sniffing boet, it is messing up your grey matter

[Mr_B]

It's nice to have admin rights hey... ya well no fine!

[Dadz Toy BFI]

Nou THIS is my kind of Lap Dog

Isn't he just the cutest little puppy wuppy kins you've ever seen

Pity that puppy's are so naughty and leave nothing but big piles of sh!t everywhere they go nê :roll:

R

[Mud Dog]

As cute as some of them might be ( sometimes downright ugly is considered or mistaken for cute), the first thing you have to look at is breeding. One does'nt want a cross-bred or in-bred mongrel. Then there is the intelligence factor ... very important! Some of these dogs cannot be taught right from wrong no matter what, .... and the bigger they get the bigger the piles of sh!t they leave behind

[Dadz Toy BFI]

.... and the bigger they get the bigger the piles of sh!t they leave behind

.........

[lukestrugnell]

I have a German Shorthaired pointer and he (George) is a great bush dog.
Normally goes all over with me for work and when I hunt he is incredible! He lives for this! The sight of a rifle makes him start "soeking" automatically!

For protection he is useless though and just shows you how the breed has been selected for a very specific purpose! Hunting there is no dog to match him (in my opinion) but if I wanted protection...a rotti or a german shepard would be for me!

In my previous job i worked a great deal with Anatolian Guard dogs that are placed on farms to guard the sheep, goats and cattle from predators! These are also incredible dogs and the protection instinct is crazy! We had one at 6 months old that stood up to a leopard attack on the cattle herd and survived! No cattle were lost! Sometimes these dogs are not properly trained by the farmers and we land up taking them away, apparently they make great pets and very good guard dogs!

[BlouBrakkie]

Hey guys

I have a beautiful male American Staffie (a.k.a pit bull) called Flex. He's the best dog ever. He's almost 5 now and has the temperment of a labrador and the energy levels of a jack russel on speed......

He loves our other dogs - 1x miniature female Toy Pom, 1x Female Border Collie and a new member to the family, a 4 month old Male toy pom called Tjompie!!!!

Flex, has the softest nature of any dog i've ever seen. Our border collie regularly goes for our gardener, and all that Flex does, is jump in between them and "shepards" the collie away from him. Talking about a reverse in roles.

He doesn't mind other strange dogs as long as they don't show aggression - but for some reason hates all jack russells - probably due to the fact that when i take him for a walk, they're the only ones corageous enough to take him on - and loose......no deaths, only me having to choke poor old Flex by his collar and picking him up in the air by the collar with a jack R hanging from his mouth until he almost faints and drops the damn attacker!!!

Other than that, our other dogs can take food and bones away from him and he doesn't mind. He's never once growled at any person, except once when our neighbours got burgaled he went mad and could stop barking and growling! that was the only time ive heard him growl, except for when he sees jack russels

He loves water and loves the beach!!! Taken him with to the transkei twice and he can't get enough of the ocean. He doesn't stop until he gets to me, even if it means getting dunked by wave after wave......the guy really has character....

Worst is, he thinks he's a lapdog....and loves to jump on all our guests' laps!!! O and he de-fleas anyone who lies down on the floor....only on your back over you shirt!!!! what a dog!!!

Here's a pic of us doing a water crossing from a previous post of mine!!!!

These dogs are definately not born aggressive, they are just like a staffie....only a bit bigger and more energetic......bad dogs aren't born, they're raised!!!!!!!!!!

[wim]

Bad news,if jou okes saw the bloke holding the kudu by the horns in Hunting weekend, his son thats only 1j and 4months old wass attacked by their burbull pet dog.He sustained bites to the face on top of his head and on his back.The oukie had to get some stitches but is ok.The child hass been groing up loving that dog and he enjoyed playing with the said dog so its a mistery to what prevoked the dog to go over in attack . This happened on this past thursday and sadly the dog had to be put down.

[Mud Dog]

Wim, that is sad news. But just let me say that although possible it is not always the dog's fault, in fact very seldom so. There is of course a reason for the occurrence. If there is any cross breeding, especially with the Bull Mastiff breed (often done to produce even bigger dogs), the result can often be an unstable animal. One also has to remember that the Boerboel is not a docile animal like a Labrador and was bred for protection. That does'nt mean that they cannot be loving. It is entirely possible that there may have been jealousy involved, and if that was the case, it would have been noticeable early and should have been properly dealt with. There could have been dominance issues, Boerboels need to be clear on their pecking order, and it needs to be enforced otherwise they might challenge it. What really went down at the time of the attack! A small child like that does not have the respect and understanding for animals that an adult has. Did the child in some way antagonise the dog? What is the dog's history?

So many factors, it's difficult to be able to analise it all even from the dog owner's perspective, especially if they are not 'dog orientated', let alone for an outsider to apportion blame. Was it the dog, was it the child, was it the parent's lack of understanding and training and direction given to the dog. We will never know, but the dog and the breed will suffer a bad name, and personally I'm not convinced it's fair on the breed.

None of this makes it any less a sad occurrence, and I sympathise with the family involved.

[OOOOMS]

Here are my 2, Dex / Landie, very loving and protective of the family. Look after them and they will protect you.

2 years ago I got attacked by 3 boer bulls, while installing my electric fence on the neighbours side. It wasn't their fault and I have no hard feelings towards my neighbour, they were just protecting their turf. Lucky for me my neighbour was home, but the damage was done, and me left bleeding.

One needs to be weary and not over confident.

[Mud Dog]

... they were just protecting their turf. One needs to be weary and not over confident.

Too true Mark. When being wary, one should try to think from the animal's perspective, also remember, when a dog is unsure of what he should be doing in a given situation, they become anxious and often revert to aggression.

Your bigger dog looks like he could be a brindle Boerboel?

[OOOOMS]

Both are AM Staff's.

Not many visitors walk freely through my gate.....

[Mud Dog]

Ok, was'nt able to get a real size perspective in the pic ... he looked bigger than a Staffie

[Piesang]

Ek het lanklaas so lekker gelees aan 'n onderwerp soos nou toe ek die een die eerstekeer oopmaak.

Ek sien dat daar veral 3 soorte is wat navore kom die Lab, Rod en Boer. Ek het aldrie van hulle saam in twee honde by die huis, skies ek lieg die een is skoonouers se hond 'n kruising tussen die Rod en Lab. Cabie (10 jaar) is swart en lyk net soos die 'n Lab en die Lab se geaardheid, 'n pragtige hond eb sal niemand en niks skade doen, maar tog is die mense baie bang vir haar.

En dan is daar pa se hond Boer en Rod X. Tessa (1.5jaar) sy is net so pragtig en lyk net soos die Boerbull is liefdevol en beskerm ma en klim nog steets op jou skoot as sy liefde soek. Sy luister goed en ek kan net my vingers klap en wys dan weet wat aangaan.

Dan is daar 'n verskoning vir 'n hond Bamby (9 jaar), so bolhare bietjie grooter as my twee hande oop langs mekaar, nee ek het geen iedee wat se hond nie, weet net haar ma en pa was altwee honde.

Nou hier kom die probleem, skoon ouers het Desember by ons ingetrek en so het Cabie ook deel van die gesin geword. Gabie en Bamby kom al lank saam en die twee het hul manier van speel en dit hou Tessa niks van nie en dan gryp sy vir Cabie, sy sal ook vir Bamby gryp as Bamby teveel aandag na haar sin kry, so as Tessa die alleen hond op die erf moes wees sou sy die perfekte hond wees.

Tess is die goeie wag hod en jy hoor haar nie sommer blaf nie. So as sy blaf gaan kyk ons, en almal wat daar kom is geweldig bang vir haar. Sy sal begin blaf as 'n vreemde inkom en as ek sê "dis ok gaan sê hello" dan hou sy op en wil jou opvreet van liefde.

Aldrie is huis honde en met die streek van Tessa dat sy so agresief raak met die ander twee het
ek al gewonder of ek nie van har moet ontsla raak nie, maar dan word daar gesê "in vandag se lewe het 'n mens 'n goeie wag hond nodig" en ek het saam gestem tot nou toe ek op die Sending trip was. Ek het die eerste 2 dae allen gery en het baie tyd gehad om met Die Here te praat toe kom ek onder die besef dat Hy ons nie 'n gees van vrees gegee het nie. Vrees is van die duiwel, dus moet my hond my troeteldier wees, sy/hy moet my friend wees, sy/hy moet daar wees omdat ek 'n hond wil hê nie sikeriteit nie. En hier slaan Bennie die spyker op sy kop met Ps 91 want ons grootste sikeriteit lê in Hom, jy kan al die honde in die werld op jou erf hê, maar as jy in vrees lewe dan gaan jou honde jou nie help nie en hulle saam sal ook nie kan dioen wat een Engel van God vir jou kan doen nie. Eks23:20,23 Eks33:2.Num20:16.Num22:22,23 Gaan kykgerus by http://www.bybel.co.za en tik die woord Engel in en gaan lees hoe God Sy engele aangaande die mens opdrag gee, jy sal verstom wees.