Hilux 4x4 Forum

I need help !! I bought a XT140 trailer and want to put a 12v power system in. I was looking at the HCDP power panel. I need it to power n 60l national fridge and some led lights and some odds and ends like a water pump and phone charger ect.
I want to run all of that off n deep cycle battery and keeping it charge by the engine while driving whenever 220v are available charging the battery and still be able to use solar panels as well.

Now i was told the HCDP power panel will take care of all of that Now would it be cheaper to build something similar or not ??

The HCDP power panel is the way to go, neat & tidy and will address all your requirements. Most importantly enjoy your XT140 and the outdoors. Going out next weekend again with mine.

David I would recommend the the HCDP power panel mark 4 - without the inverter, for the following reasons :

- comparing quality, you cant build it cheaper. In fact just the Ctekc 250S charger you need costs almost as much as the complete Mark 4 unit !
- It is manufactured locally by Manie, and you CAN talk to him. Not some faceless imported product ...
- SIZE ... trying to build something like this you end up taking 3 times the space ... and you have miles of wire that can potentially cause issues.
- ease of use/installation - the Power Panel comes with everything you need, switches built in already, all the safeties. Simply cant get any easier.
- integrated design - the Power Panel already integrates the alternator and solar and mains power to provide a single complete package, and off course it also integrates the various output circuits and safeties.

There is only ONE reason I might consider something else - because it is such an integrated system a single fault leaves you with no power .... and almost no options to over ride the system. There was one incident where low voltage in an overloaded camp site caused the input fuse to pop. Replacing the fuse cant solve the camp electrics, thus not knowing the route cause of the problem at the time you are without power. BUT, this is a 1 in a million situation !! AND, if you understand some basics it would be possible to trace the fault, and just unplug the mains and carry on off the solar. With a modular self built unit you can (if you understand the basics) bypass one or two components and keep the fridge going ...


When I started out there was no Power Panel, at least not as we now know the Mark 4 unit. Thus my 4x4 was kitted out modularly :
viewtopic.php?f=136&t=11751&hilit=elders" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Two years ago I did a bakkie for a friend, using the Power Panel Mark 4 :
viewtopic.php?f=41&t=37810&p=452306&hil ... er#p452306" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If I had to kit out something today - HCDP Power Panel Mark 4 !!!

Thank for the advice. Do any of jou know what size whirring one have to run to the back from the alternator ? As what is going to be the best as i going to be using 3 different cars pulling the traile ?

The HCdp wiring diagram calls for a 10mm squared wire.

Considering how this unit works, ie the bypass function, best to stick to this size as a minimum ....


sure some will recommend something bigger .... especially since this is not to the back of a bakkie, but all the way back to a trailer ...

Yes, the dc-2-dc charger makes the voltage drop a non issue in terms of charging the battery. BUT, the voltage drop is still an issue when considering the fridge will be running on the bypass function. So may I be the first to recommend to rather go for a larger size wire.

While you are travelling the solar panel will be charging the trailer battery. With nothing else working while you are travelling you will have no issues, especially starting off with a full battery. Doing the electrix on three vehicles will be more trouble than what it is worth.
I would suggest you have at least a 100w solar panel for the 60L fridge/freezer
If you cooler is any bigger go for at least 150w panel.
You will mostly not be travelling during the night, and even if you do, if the goodies in the fridge are already cold, it will use very little power to just keep everything cold.
Somewhere along the way you will also get to campsites with power and this will top up the battery in an eight hour shift on 220v power source.
Travelling during the day, your solar will load more than the fridge is drawing.
Also, everything will be closed, so no heat generation from a light source.
That is why fridges in the canopy or back of an SUV work harder because of light causing heat through windows into a vehicle.
Just see the difference between the closed boot of an ordinary sedan and the inside of the same sedan while parked at a shopping mall.
Hope the explanation helps you make a decision.

Hope I'm not hijacking this thread but maybe this question is of use to others. I am going to replace two hella plugs with brad harrison plugs on my Echo Chobe but I see the previous owner wired the two hellas with just one negative cable grounded to the metal bracket that holds them. I don't want to replace all the wiring as its trunked from inside but am not sure if I can just split that negative wire into two so that I can attach the brad harrison plugs. Is this possible?