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the hooks are supposedly ratedCleaner wrote:What is the opinion on these?
Just for interest sake. Looks like a gimmick to me and you will only have 1 recovery point. Better than none I suppose.
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Daai afrikaanse taalgebruik skrik my al klaar af. Klink soos 'n program op kyknetCleaner wrote:What is the opinion on these?
Just for interest sake. Looks like a gimmick to me and you will only have 1 recovery point. Better than none I suppose.
Sent from my refrigerator using the ice-dispencer
Ek moes self twee keer lees, klaar lag en toe weer lees.Bushwacker wrote:
Daai afrikaanse taalgebruik skrik my al klaar af. Klink soos 'n program op kyknet
ShoeThysdJ wrote:Here's where you can buy them.. but they are not cheap.. :wth: :wth: :wth:
http://www.northridge4x4.co.za/shop/ter ... ir-4803300" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
+1Stubs wrote:I personally would mount those rear recovery points vertically, allowing the shackle to move from side to side and keeping the rope central in the shackle, as they are now if you are not performing a direct straight tow/snatch then the rope will move inside the shackle,
i had a argument about recovery popints with a instructer one dayStef wrote:Personally I'm not a fan of the hooks, but the more experienced okes swear by them. I also like bow shackles; Here's the link of how I did mine... ORRU guys at the RDW family fun day were more than chuffed with them, so drill into the plate![]()
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=12595&hilit=recovery+points
I hear ya, it's only as rated as the mounting bolts...but I think the ORRU guys were pretty reasonable @ RDW.JEEPIE wrote:i had a argument about recovery popints with a instructer one day
this whole rated recovery point thing just didnt make sense
but they have their standard and thats now the rules.
Boertjie wrote:As a ORRU Member a few notes on recovery points:
Those hooks are TROUBLE, even the rated ones as they are only rated at 10,000 lbs which is about 4,5 metric tons and way below spec, especially as users tend to recover on just one hook rather than a bridle and two hooks....
These inserts, if made well, are fine for recovery and will be better/ stronger on a well made towbar than any other home improvised recovery point at the back somewhere...
The idea of drilling a suitable hole on the two drop plates on the back tow bar of a Hilux (where the plates attach to the chassis) is still a good idea and as long as the two or three bolts holding the plate to the chassis are High Tensile (8.8) then, that plate is going nowhere. If you then beef up the hole with the spacers that is also OK.
WhyJuan21 wrote:WTH.... Lol, people on this form crack me up :-)
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Sent from my desk using my secretary..
Mud Dog wrote:Still waiting to see the one that says "Sent from my PC using my neighbour's WiFi connection."
Also trueHoppy wrote:Every type of recovery hook has it's advantages / disadvantages, forget about ratings, ratings depends on who rated it, a 10 ton SABS rating will get a 30 ton rating in Taiwan. Use common sense and choose the right one for your vehicle.
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And you know this how?Stef wrote:Mud Dog wrote:Still waiting to see the one that says "Sent from my PC using my neighbour's WiFi connection."
![]()
Problem is that the neighbour is probably also a forum member
So you'll only be able to say it once LOL
No touch screens were cursed at/ abused during the typing of this post.
PS the neighbour's connection is too slow anayway
Would it be possible to make these out of MILD STEEL or should it be made out of EN8 or EN19ThysdJ wrote:Here's where you can buy them.. but they are not cheap.. :wth: :wth: :wth:
http://www.northridge4x4.co.za/shop/ter ... ir-4803300" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
To me it looks like the "bevelled" section is the actual weld.CasKru wrote:Keep in mind that the piece sticking out from the back plate is bevelled so even if the welding fails, the bevel will keep it in place
Made a quick drawing so you can understand what I'm saying... (not to scale or anything... just the concept)Mud Dog wrote:To me it looks like the "bevelled" section is the actual weld.CasKru wrote:Keep in mind that the piece sticking out from the back plate is bevelled so even if the welding fails, the bevel will keep it in place
'cause I had to fix it on a few occasionsMud Dog wrote:[And you know this how?
I understood that Cassie, and thought that's what you meant, but I don't see anything on the pic to suggest they're made this way. If they are, it may well make them stronger, but to my mind there's still the issue of the 4 small mounting bolts. If the backing plate were bigger and there were 4 bolts on each side or the existing four bolts were thicker I would be more accepting of the concept. Perhaps I'm just being overly critical, but to my mind it's still safety that matters in the final analysis.CasKru wrote:Made a quick drawing so you can understand what I'm saying... (not to scale or anything... just the concept)Mud Dog wrote:To me it looks like the "bevelled" section is the actual weld.CasKru wrote:Keep in mind that the piece sticking out from the back plate is bevelled so even if the welding fails, the bevel will keep it in place
Ek en my Hilux is een!!! Het nie n bakkie nie. Honde drink en eet uit n bakkie!!!CasKru wrote:En jou bakkie sin?
Pleasure. Just tried to add a bit of figures so that one can get a feeling of what the bolts can do. They are most of the time the weakest link in the whole recovery train. Then people tent to blame the shackles or hooks when they become projectiles.CasKru wrote:Thanks for that info Johan... at least 3 M12 8.8 bolts it is then
WayneSchalk wrote:So on the topic of recovery points, I am going to cut a couple of these. don't know who's pic this is. what would you recon is a good thickness? 12mm? and what material, SS or mild steel