Hesitation during driving

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Sat May 19, 2018 7:14 pm

Good evening to all,

I'm Shermohamed from Tanzania, East Africa, and i own a Toyota Hilux Double Cabin Pickup, with a 4Y Gasoline Carburetor Engine, bearing the Chassis Number YN67R. Recently, about three weeks ago, i have come up with a hesitation problem while driving, especially on 1st, 02nd & 3rd Gear, and rarely on 4th & 5th gear too. Hesitation occurs between 2,000 to 3,000 rpms. I've tuned the Carburetor to the factory standard (has a brand new carburetor in it, with 7 Months Old), tested the Fuel Pump, checked the Distributor for the Primary Coil, Secondary Coil & Ignitor (Magnetic Distributor), replaced the spark plugs with Iridium plugs, adjusted the timing to 8 degrees BTDC, checked for Air, Fuel & Vacuum Leaks, cleaned the Fuel System by using the ABRO Carb Cleaner into the fuel tank about 2 weeks ago, checked the High Tension Spark Wires for Cracks or Spark Leaks, Cleaned the Distributor Contacts, cleaned the Rotor, checked the gaps between the shaft and the magnet, no cracks on the distributor cap, rechecked the spark plugs after installation, and they burn to the standard, all four of them, checked the sparks on all four plugs (that also shows that the primary & secondary coils are very much operational) exhaust turns greyish, white in color while normal driving, vehicle starts perfect in cold or hot engine temperature, idles perfect, and when accelerated while in neutral, she accelerates perfect, but only while driving the hesitation occurs. Also checked the fuel cap breather and fuel tank breather, they all check out to be ok. Can anyone kindly assist as to what else am i missing out. I'm a little hesitant in opening up the Carburetor in order to check the Main Jet, as it's an original Japanese Carb only 7 months old. Any assistance on this will sincerely be appreciated.
Looking forward to your responses by return
Regards
Shermohamed

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sun May 20, 2018 8:55 am

Hi again Shermohamed. You've checked everything that I mentioned in our PM communication, but two things still come to mind. You said that the problem is not there when revving the motor while the vehicle is stationary so I am to understand that it happens when the motor is under load.

This could be fuel starvation (it needs more fuel under load) and could be caused by a partial blockage in a jet / incorrect float level / weak fuel delivery ( due to inefficient fuel pump, fuel filter restriction, fuel line restriction, blockage at needle valve in carb, blockage in the tank) or even a combination of some of the factors above.

The other thing is that coils and plugs can fail under load. Even new plugs can fail and I'm not sure that the iridium plugs are the best choice - the electrical resistance in the plugs could be higher than standard ones. Try putting the old plugs back or fitting BP6ES plugs.

I hope you find the problem.

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Sun May 20, 2018 9:48 am

Yes, only happens while driving, doesn't happen while idling or accelerating when stationary, meaning happens only when motor is under load. Thank you for your response, I guess I'll have to go for the Carburetor and get that checked too. I'll also drop the fuel tank and check the lines for blockage. Will b in touch. Thanks again for your response on this.

Regards
Shermohamed

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sun May 20, 2018 10:41 pm

No need to drop the tank. Just disconnect the feed line to the carb, stick the end into a bottle where the bottle won't fall or tip over and start the motor. Watch the flow rate into the bottle while the motor is idling and then rev it up a bit before it dies from not getting fuel to the carb. There should be a fairly steady stream.

If you're not satisfied or the motor didn't run long enough with the fuel in the float chamber, you could disconnect the return line and temporarily fasten another piece of fuel hose and lead that into a bottle. That way the float chamber will stay full, the motor won't die out and you can monitor how much fuel gets continually returned to the tank at higher revs - it should also be a steady stream, not just a trickle.

If there is a problem there, then you can look at the pump and possible blockages / restrictions.

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Sun May 20, 2018 11:08 pm

Evening Sir,

Thanks for your response. I had done the fuel pump test with disconnecting the supply line into the carb and firing the vehicle, it was a steady strong supply, didn't rev the engine though and didn't check the return flow, but will do that tomorrow before removing the carb. Since I saw a steady and strong supply of fuel leading to the carb, I ruled that the pump is still strong, nevertheless I'll also check with the engine rev and return line.

Keep in touch
Regards
Shermohamed

Thabogrobler · Post by **Thabogrobler** » Mon May 21, 2018 8:39 pm

Hi,

The fact that the exhaust burns grey in normal use tells me the air:fuel ratio is too lean.

A healthy engine running leaded fuel should only burn grey when used on the open road.

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Mon May 21, 2018 9:01 pm

Evening Sir,
Thanks for your advise, shall look into the air fuel ratio mixture and adjust it accordingly.

Regards
Shermohamed

Mars · Post by **Mars** » Tue May 22, 2018 11:55 am

There are two main factors that influence the (smooth) running of an engine. Fuel and spark. It seems as if you have eliminated the fuel as a possible problem. The only thing that remains is the spark (ignition timing and the strength of the spark). It also seems as if you have checked for vacuum leaks. There is very little left you can check but one question that comes to mind is how old are the ignition leads?

Over time their internal resistance increases negatively influencing the spark. I had an issue with an Opel Monza recently that would idle roughly and occasionally lose power (due to not running properly on all cylinders.) As I had rebuilt the engine less than 10 000 ks before I knew it was not compression related. At that stage I also replaced the HT leads. After a lot of trouble shooting the issue was completely resolved when I again replaced the HT leads.

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Tue May 22, 2018 3:10 pm

Dear Sir,

I've finally managed to get to the bottom of this. The Distributor Coil had become weak. I'd already checked the HT lines for resistance, and they checked to be ok, I finally managed to get the coil and ignitor tested and found the coil to be faulty. Therefore a fellow mechanic has a 4Y injection engine, and borrowed me the coil from there, fitted and placed the timings to 9 degrees BTDC, and by the grace of the Almighty, my horse ran like a Stallion on her first test drive. Still am going to test it further, but so far the results are very promising.

Will keep you guys posted. Special thanks to Mud Dog for guiding me through this forum.

Regards
Shermohamed

Mars · Post by **Mars** » Tue May 22, 2018 3:29 pm

Glad to hear that you found the issue. Like I said if it has fuel and spark it should run. A faulty coil will definitely give you a weak\erratic spark.

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Tue May 22, 2018 3:36 pm

You're absolutely correct Mars, and sincerely appreciate your assistance. I'll keep you guys posted as I continue test driving her tonight and tomorrow when I go to my Farm.

Regards
Shermohamed

Post by **Mud Dog** » Tue May 22, 2018 3:52 pm

Happy to hear that you got to the bottom of it!

When a coil or condenser start to fail it's often difficult to pin-point the problem and like I said, sometimes they only start failing under load.

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Tue May 22, 2018 4:09 pm

Yup, you are absolutely correct, it's difficult to pin point and the tricky part is that, they at times initialy fail under load. Now I know. Thank you Mud Dog.

Regards
Shermohamed

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Wed May 23, 2018 10:54 pm

Good Evening to all,

Hope all well at your ends.

My Stallion is sick again with the same problem of hesitations while driving only. She was running perfect yesterday after i replaced the Distributor Coil, and today while i was going to my farm, she started hesitating just before i entered the Farm. The problem continued on my way back to town. She hesitates between 2,000 and 2,500 rpms, and this time in all the gears, except for 1st gear. If you pull her to 3,000 rpm and onwards, she doesn't hesitate. She has allot of power, it's better than before and her torque is fantastic on off roads while climbing hills. The hesitations this time is different, not like before that she literally used to kind of starve, this time it's like quick hesitations for few seconds and goes away. If you shift gears while she hesitates, the hesitation goes away and comes again between 2,000 and 2,500 rpms on the changed gear.

I'm running out of options, was thinking to replace the Spark Plugs again ( 4th time now), was thinking of going for the original plugs recommended rather than Iridium, also get the High Tension Wires checked or replaced. I can't think of anything else. Hope i've managed to explain myself clearly. In case of any queries or clarifications, please do let me know

I'd appreciate to have your ideas and advises again please. Remember, i have set the timing to 9 Degrees BTDC.

Kind regards
Shermohamed

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Thu May 24, 2018 12:35 am

Hi again,

I forgot to mention that, i noticed my fuel consumption going to the Farm & Back is dramatically high, my Farm is 110 Kms out of town one way, so both ways comes to 220 Kms, normally i fuel her up to full while going to the farm, and when back to town, she's remained with Half Tank, this includes driving around the farm for 2 to 3 kms, today without even driving in the Farm, she's below half and above quarter, so noticed that it's too high than normal.

Regards
Shermohamed

Post by **Mud Dog** » Thu May 24, 2018 12:40 am

An intermittent problem can be one of the worst to pin point, but at least it tends to point towards an electrical fault. The fact that it can run well almost exclude a mechanical cause or things like timing, so all that's left is fuel and spark and although it appears to more like;y be electrical, neither can be ruled out.

Before you look at the plugs, maybe just check connections and condition of wires to the coil you replaced as well as all other connections associated with ignition. Like connections and wires at the primary coil as well as fuses and ignition relay - it's a shot in the dark but at the least will help eliminate those possibilities. The next thing I would look at is the HT leads, not only those from the dizzy to the plugs, but also the one from the coil to the dizzy.

Hope you find it.

P.S. I see that you posted about the fuel consumption while I was typing the above. Also check to wires and connections to the idle solenoid and auto-choke on the carb. (Like I said, a fuelling problem cannot be ruled out, even though it may have an electrical origin.)

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Thu May 24, 2018 12:57 am

Thank you for your response. I had examined the wires to the coil while replacing the coil, and the connections too, nevertheless, I'll recheck them. I'll now also get the HT wires checked as haven't measured them, had only checked for cracks and spark leaks using water spray test.

Thanks Mud Dog, hopefully I'll get her back recovered. I'll keep you updated.

Regards
Shermohamed

Post by **Mud Dog** » Thu May 24, 2018 1:23 am

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Fri May 25, 2018 5:25 pm

Good evening team,

Hope all well at your ends.

My Stallion is still sick with the same hesitation issues, with everything i did on her, the hesitations are a little aggressive than before, but they haven't been omitted, now happens while accelerating and decelerating too. I got the wiring checked with a professional, from the Ignition Switch to the Distributor, and the Solenoid of the Carb, the fuses, relays everything that could interfere with the Ignition Current, and everything in regards to wiring has checked out to be fine.

Therefore, the Fuel tank - Ok, Fuel Lines - Ok, Tank Breather Line - Ok, Fuel Cap Breather - Ok, Fuel Pump - Ok, Carburetor - Ok, Carb Fuel Lines - Ok, Carb Air Lines - Ok, Carb Vacuum Lines - Ok, Distributor - Ok (Coil Replaced), Distributor Vacuum Advancer - OK, Distributor Vacuum Lines - OK, Distributor Current - OK, Electrical Wiring from Ignition Switch to Distributor to Coil to Igniter - Ok, Carb Solenoid Switch & Wire - Ok. Drove in different ignition timings from 7 degrees to 9 degrees BTDC, Problem still there. Or am i the unlucky one being this vehicle's motor is faulty by default?

I can't think of anything further.

Require assistance in case any (This is really frustrating, especially she being my first wife

Regards
Shermohamed

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Fri May 25, 2018 5:48 pm

By the way, i also replaced the HT Spark Wires, but in Vain so far.

Regards
Shermohamed

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Fri May 25, 2018 6:26 pm

I Also wanted to know, if there would be a possibility of importing a complete Distributor with the HT Wires from South Africa to Tanzania - Dar Es Salaam. This is cause i'm just doubting that there might be something internally incorrect with my Stallion's Distributor, maybe there's something somewhere that current is lost during driving, hence causing the hesitations. Correct me if i'm wrong.

Regards
Shermohamed

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sat May 26, 2018 2:59 pm

I'm beginning to think that you cut someone off in traffic and they put a hex on your vehicle.

OK, it ran fine when you replaced the condenser in the distributor, but it started with the problem during a trip. Now I'm thinking that either there is something causing it to fail or it was a dud with an inherent weakness that ensured it would not last. They're not expensive items, so maybe try replacing it again before you start looking at other things.

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Sat May 26, 2018 4:42 pm

Lol Mud Dog, I guess it's someone's jealous eyes on my Stallion.

OK, since last night, I retired the timing just a bit, to the extent that the distributor was right at the center of the adjuster bracket, then went off for a test drive. I did this adjustment manually cause I don't have a timing gun with me, so I have no idea on the degrees, but she was on 9 degrees BTDC and I moved it back to the retire mode only to where the idle just went a mm low, and locked it there, that is exactly at the center of the distributor adjuster. She has run quite impressively, last night, no hesitations at all, today I had some work at Pugu Hills, that's 96 kms away fromthe city, and she hesitated 3 times in the entire trip, and that even the hesitations were next to negligible, meaning the passenger wouldn't even feel that she hesitated, then I tried retarding the Ignition by another mm, but she then started hesitating more, then I returned it back to where I kept it last night, that is at the center of the adjuster, and she drove quite well.

I actually changed the coil, not the resistor, I got the resistor checked by a professional electrician, and it checked out to be ok.

I'm still going to observe her for another 4 to 5 days, where I'll have my Farm trips and see, if she does hesitate, I'll be serious then about replacing the complete distributor.

What do you say?

Regards
Shermohamed

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sun May 27, 2018 5:30 am

It should be running fine at 8 or 9° BTDC and you say that by retarding the timing the problem becomes to be less. That's not right.

What comes to mind is that there is a fault with the dizzy like a worn rotor shaft (you said earlier that was not the case) - or the vacuum advance is not working for some reason (too little or no vacuum / diaphragm is shot). I'm also not convinced that the iridium plugs are right for this motor, they could be burning too hot and causing pre-ignition - I would still put the old plugs back as a test if there was no misfiring with them at the time of replacement, or get a set of BP6ES plugs.

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Sun May 27, 2018 12:39 pm

Afternoon Mud Dog

The vacuum advance is working, as I tested it with sucking from the vacuum pipe with the pipe connected to the distributor, and the magnetic unit moves forth and back when released. This shows that the advancer is working.

I replaced the Spark plugs back to the originals ones around 3 days ago, before the electrical inspection of the Ignition system. She was still hesitating.

As for the timing, I'm sure I've reduced it from 9 degrees BTDC, as the 9 degrees where done at my friend's workshop who has a timing gun, hence as I mentioned, I reduced it just to the spot where the engine idle just began to reduce and locked it there, this happens to be the center of the adjusters on the distributor adjustment bracket.

This is why am saying, she's on test for another 3 to 4 days, if still the slightest of hesitations occur, I suppose I'll be going for the distributor replacements. Unless I'm kissing something out.

Regards
Shermohamed

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Sun May 27, 2018 12:41 pm

Sorry, the last sentence meant, if I'm missing something. Not kissing

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sun May 27, 2018 10:37 pm

Immediately figured that out .... fat finger syndrome

.... and the "m" and "k" are next to each other on the key board.

Let us know how it goes with the misfire problem.

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Sun May 27, 2018 11:17 pm

Lol Mud Dog, indeed, that's fat finger syndrome, at times I face difficulties to get a bolt or nut in tight spaces. Well today I had to go 70kms away from the city, and on gravel, my trips are oftenly on gravel roads out of the city. Today she hesitated to an extent that she switched off, cranked her up, she fired up and was missing in idle for about 8 or 10 seconds, when accelerated her, the miss went out gradually, then she galloped well to the destination. On the way back, he hesitated thrice and this time wasn't a negligible hesitation, each time she hesitated, was very much noticeable. Therefore tomorrow by the Will of God, am replacing the distributor and will check her out.

Here in Tanzania, such items as a distributor for an old horse like her is difficult to get, hence am getting a used one out of an engine that was imported for sales of spares for a 4Y.

Sir, I appreciate your follow ups. I'll keep you updated.

Regards
Shermohamed

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sun May 27, 2018 11:53 pm

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Mon May 28, 2018 6:43 pm

Mud Dog wrote: ↑Sun May 27, 2018 5:30 am It should be running fine at 8 or 9° BTDC and you say that by retarding the timing the problem becomes to be less. That's not right.

What comes to mind is that there is a fault with the dizzy like a worn rotor shaft (you said earlier that was not the case) - or the vacuum advance is not working for some reason (too little or no vacuum / diaphragm is shot). I'm also not convinced that the iridium plugs are right for this motor, they could be burning too hot and causing pre-ignition - I would still put the old plugs back as a test if there was no misfiring with them at the time of replacement, or get a set of BP6ES plugs.

Hey Mud Dog,

Hope all well at your end.

Unfortunately i haven't managed to get the complete Distributor for trial on my Stallion. The guy who is selling, wants full payment, and i asked him that i would like to give it a try for 4 to 5 days, and if it works, i shall be paying you in full, as for the time being, i could give him an advance, but he's hesitant. Anyways, am still struggling to get him give me the part on trial, hope i get successful.

Anyways, i wanted to know, since i did the Vacuum Advancer test with mouth sucking through the vacuum pipe, and the magnetic advancer moved the way it was suppose to move in order to advance the timing on high revs. Can it be possible that the advancer at times doesn't work well, hence causing the hesitation? Or is it that if the advancer fails, it fails totally, and if it's operational, it's totally operational?

The other thing that i'm taking into consideration, is that maybe the Inlet Valve at times don't close to the seat completely, hence allowing air leak into the cylinder while it's on the compression stroke? Can that be a possibility?

Regards
Shermohamed

Post by **Mud Dog** » Tue May 29, 2018 12:56 am

If it were a valve problem, it would be there all the time and since you have had periods where it ran well, I doubt that is the case - it's a very remote possibility at best.

A vacuum advance that is failing can work poorly and not at all, so that's still a possibility and a motor that misfires or doesn't perform when the revs go up normally indicates a faulty vacuum advance. What is puzzling about your narrative is that it performed better when you retarded the timing, which would mean that the vacuum advance is working too well - so I have to wonder if you actually retarded it or advanced it? How sure are you? (If you turn the distributor in the same direction of rotation as the rotor turns, then you are retarding the timing and if you turn it in the opposite direction you are advancing the timing).

You say you checked the advance mechanism by sucking on the pipe, but is there suction on the pipe when the motor is running?

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Tue May 29, 2018 1:18 am

Evening Mud Dog,

OK, understood in regards to the Valve seating, hence am going to omit it for now.

As for the vacuum advsncer, I rotated the distributor in the same direction as the motor turns, secondly, yes the vacuum pipe does suck air when engine is fired and reving, checked that by blocking and releasing my finger on the vacuum pipe while reving.

The other thing is, since my return trip from Pugu Hills on Sunday, where she'd hesitated thrice, after that, today she's been driving well with two hesitations that are negligible, like the passenger wouldn't notice it at all.

Now with that, I'm beginning to have second thoughts on replacing the distributor.

I don't know what else to look for.

Regards
Shermohamed

Post by **Mud Dog** » Tue May 29, 2018 8:59 am

Maybe run it for a while and see what happens.

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Tue May 29, 2018 11:34 am

OK, will run her for a while and see.

Regards
Shermohamed

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Fri Jun 08, 2018 7:14 pm

Evening Mud Dog,

How have you been? Hope all well at your end.
I've been running my Stallion for a while now, with the problem coming and going, she runs very well at times, and at times she hesitates, but the hesitations become less or negligible when i alter the Ignition timing, hence i'm running her at 8 degrees BTDC, this was achieved when i had set the timing using my friend's timing light when i'd gone to his workshop, that was some two weeks ago. I'd tried to take the Ignition timing a little further (advance) and a little back (Retard) during my 2 week driving trying to make her run at her best, but finally the best i can get out of her is at 8 Degrees BTDC, (i'd marked the adjusting space on the distributor adjuster when i had set her at 8 Degrees at my friend's workshop).
Today i decided to go for the Fuel Pump Replacement, and after the replacement, the power in her has increased even further, and her pick up has also increased (like she picks up from slow speed on gear 3 without changing her down to gear 2), this has been achieved after the fuel pump replacement. She ran very satisfactory for a while, and the hesitation occurred again, so i decided again to alter the Ignition timing, i first put her a little in advance, and she performed unsatisfactorily, then i put her a little retard, yet her performance was unsatisfactory, so i returned her on the mark of 8 Degrees, and she performed satisfactory with less and minor hesitations.
My friend has asked me to reface the valves, as he doubts that the Intake Valves may not be closing completely during her Compression Stroke, but i remember you stating that if it were the Valves, then the problem would've been consistent.
I'd therefore like to have your views on this, should i go for refacing the Valves, or replace the Distributor? (I've actually placed an order for a Distributor today from Australia, expecting it to be here by the first week of July 2018).
Here in Tanzania, it's quite difficult to get parts for such classic vehicles, as 85% of our vehicles here the modern type, hence auto part shops don;t really order parts for classic vehicles anymore.
Looking forward to your response on this by return.
Regards
Shermohamed

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sat Jun 09, 2018 6:16 am

Hello again. Good to hear that you had a positive result from a new fuel pump but from what you are saying, this is not the underlying cause of the problem. The valves are easy enough to check with a compression test which is something you can do in the meantime if you have not already done it. Otherwise I would leave the valves and wait for the new distributor to see if the problem is resolved after fitting it. 8° BTDC is more or less the factory spec for the motor, so leave it there for now.

To me, this faltering problem still sounds like an electrical problem of some kind that could arise from a poor connection somewhere, a break or poor conductivity in a wire / cable or one that is mechanically induced like in the distributor. I am hoping that the new distributor will be the cure.

Good luck and let us know if the new dizzy is the answer.

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Sat Jun 09, 2018 3:07 pm

Afternoon Mud Dog,

Thank you for your speedy response on this. I haven't done the Compression Test as yet, and will do it as soon as i get the tools from my friend's workshop, then can do a dry test, wet test and leakdown test.
Yes, that's what i was wondering, what other electrical connections are there inside a electronic distributor, since i haven't been able to dig deep inside on how these distributors are made, i'll also do my research on it, in order to gain more knowledge and also share the knowledge and experience for others who maybe facing similar issues.
I should be getting the Distributor by the 1st week of July, and also hope that this should solve the problem totally :)
Keep in touch.

Regards
Shermohamed

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sat Jun 09, 2018 3:31 pm

I've never stripped one down either, so I can't tell you. Maybe once you have installed the new one you can strip the old one.

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Sat Jun 09, 2018 5:36 pm

Yeah will definately do that, once the new distributor solves the problem

Ryperd · Post by **Ryperd** » Thu Jul 12, 2018 10:46 pm

I had a hesitating engine for about a year (also a 4Y Hilux), and I have great sympathy for your frustration, Shermohamed. Actually I've experienced it twice, and both times it was an electrical problem. The first time the problem was a faulty distributor cap. There were no obvious cracks or anything, but simply replacing the distributor cap did the trick. I know you've checked the distributor cap, but maybe try swapping with someone with a similar vehicle to see if that makes any difference? In South Africa it's not an expensive part, so you might consider replacing just the distributor cap before replacing the whole distributor.

The second time, the problem was much harder to find, and I went through most of the same the steps you've gone through. In the end I found that it was an intermittent short in a cable that went to the back of the vehicle to charge a second battery. I have an engine management system which I think is more susceptible to voltage fluctuations, but if you've checked everything else, go through your wiring very carefully and consider replacing anything that doesn't look good.

The problem with these intermittent faults is that it seems every time it's a different problem, and hardly ever what you think it is. I hope that you've solved your problem by now, and if not, at least know that the satisfaction of finally figuring out what the problem is at least partially makes up for all the frustration!

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Thu Jul 12, 2018 11:22 pm

Hi Ryperd,

Thanks allot for your feedback on this matter. I've actually ordered a brand new distributor from Australia and is expected by this or next week. As far as wiring is concerned, I have done that myself and twice in details with a professional electrician just to relieve my doubts, and all the wirings so far have checked out to be perfect. I'd also re dropped the fuel tank 2 weeks back to check for any fuel blockages, but found none.

She still hesitates at times, but not aggressively as she used to before, and also the interval periods of hesitations have prolonged, before she used to hesitate almost everyday once to four times a day the whole day, currently she would run without any hesitation for four days upto a week and hesitates once to three times after the interval.

I'm now waiting for the new distributor to arrive. Comes complete with the high tension cables.

I'll surely keep you all posted after I receive and fit it in.

I sincerely appreciate your feedback, and keep in touch.

Regards
Shermohamed

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Sat Aug 25, 2018 3:08 pm

Hey guys (Mud dog and Hyperd),

Hope all well at your ends. Today by the grace of the Almighty, the Distributor finally arrived from Australia, it's here with me. I'll be working on this installation tonight or Monday when i return from the Farm, as i'll need to borrow the Timing Gun from my Friend. Just wanted to let you know that the part finally came in after 3 Months.

Once fitted, i'll give you guys a feedback.

Regards
Shermohamed

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sat Aug 25, 2018 4:33 pm

Thanks. Will be curious to know if it has sorted the problem.

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Sat Aug 25, 2018 6:45 pm

Sure will do

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Mon Aug 27, 2018 4:48 pm

Hey Mud dog, Hyperd and the rest;

Last night i returned from the Farm and decided to install the brand new distributor into my Stallion. It was a total failure, i struggled with her until 23.00hrs our time, and decided to give up on her, she just wouldn't start. Came up to my house and went through the downloaded manual to see where was i going wrong. Two things where i was going wrong;
1. I followed the 8 degree BTDC to be my timing mark when turning the engine manually to get the TDC, hence the timing wasn't sitting correctly.
2. I wasn't aligning the Distributor Shaft with the Housing Mark & the Gear Groove of the Shaft, so that it would fall on the correct firing order for piston number one.
This morning i had to go to work (Garage) with her, so i quickly set her with the specs required, not to a 100%, but she fired, and had to keep the Distributor to the max advance for her to remain in silence, she was rough in idling and pinging like never before. Drove her slowly to my garage (3 kms away from where i live), and there asked my boss if i could work on her. I manually rotated the engine to get the TDC at mark 0, then alineged the Housing Mark with the Gear Groove of the Distributor Shaft, adjusted the Oil Pump Notch to around 30 degrees with a flat screw driver, so that the Distributor Shaft drops perfectly in alignment with piston one firing. The distributor dropped in perfectly to the required position with the rotor facing plug one for firing on the cap, and wallah, she fired in one kick, stayed in silence pretty well, and then adjusted the timing to 8 degrees before TDC, as it was daylight, i couldn't exactly see the timing gun hitting on 8 degrees, but did to my best of knowledge. Ran her for a test drive, and so far with the Grace of the Almighty, she's galloping well. This evening i drove from work to home, and noticed the Idle was a little high, between 900 to 1,000 rpm, so i adjusted it down to 850 rpm for now, and will drive her for a few days to check her out on her performance.

Therefore so far, all well, hoping she remains the same.

Regards
Shermohamed

Post by **Mud Dog** » Mon Aug 27, 2018 6:48 pm

Good to hear. If you have the timing on 8 or 9° BTDC it should be perfect. If the miss-firing has gone then the idle should be adjusted at the carb. Hope all continues to go well.

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Mon Aug 27, 2018 7:04 pm

Thank you Mud Dog. Yes will adjust the idle if necessary from the carb. I hope she continues galloping smoothly.

Sher

Mars · Post by **Mars** » Thu Aug 30, 2018 3:12 pm

Congratulations. Looks like you are getting the issue resolved now.

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Thu Aug 30, 2018 3:15 pm

Thank you Mars, hope she goes on well. So far, haven't experienced the hesitation yet

Shermohamed

Agteros · Post by **Agteros** » Sat Sep 01, 2018 6:34 am

Good morning everyone

This thread is very interesting to me since I think I am experiencing the same for a very long time now but not as severe as was the case with Shermohamed.

I occasionally get the same "hessitation" occasionally. I just had Agteros serviced and the problem is still with me.

Any idea what would the cost be to replace the distributor?

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Sat Sep 01, 2018 8:44 am

Good morning,

I imported my distributor from Australia, as here in Tanzania, we don't have availability of parts for old vehicles. Tried to order from South Africa, but the payment was somehow rejected.

From Australia, total cost into Tanzania, including Shipping and Clearing with Customs at the Airport, it costed me $ 209.00

Regards
Shermohamed

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Fri Sep 07, 2018 9:38 pm

Dear All,

Good evening and hope all well at your ends.

Today marks 12 days since i installed the new Distributor i imported from Australia in my Stallion. Results;
- She still hesitates during driving, but the hesitations are minimum, not extreme so far, and not always, just like she did before, only at times for a short period of time, and she's back to normal.
- I like the way she accelerates after the installation, it's much quicker and sounds stronger. In idle, she sounds crisp. Her pick up during overtaking is better than before.
I therefore have decided to give this problem a rest for a while, she drives well, and with all the positive factors stated here above.
Mud dog, i'll not be disassembling the old Distributor, as now that we know that the Distributor wasn't the solution of the problem, hence i've stored it for standby just in case. I'll be digging into the internal components of an Electronic Distributor from Manuals just to get the idea of how it performs internally.
Rest all well by the Grace of the Almighty.

Best regards
Shermohamed

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sat Sep 08, 2018 12:31 am

Thanks for the feedback. Sorry that it's not all positive, since there is a still a problem there somewhere. It almost sounds like a bad connection that plays up a bit from time to time but I think you said you checked them all. Wonder if the coil could be breaking down, but usually in that case the problem would be constant.

Hope you still get to the bottom of it.

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Sat Sep 08, 2018 9:07 am

Morning Mod Dog,

Thanks for your response. For now, i'll just take a break on this matter, but with God's will, I'm hoping to get to the bottom of this sometime later.

Regards
Shermohamed

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Mon Dec 10, 2018 3:38 pm

Afternoon to all and offcourse Mud Dog.

How have you been Mud Dog? Hope all well at your end by the grace of the Almighty.

My Stallion is performing very well by the grace of the Almighty, and she's not hesitated since my last feedback to you here. I've already clocked 7,278 kms since I installed the new distributor on 27th Aug 2018. Since my work is mostly at the Farm and a friend's camp, that's all in 4wd roads especially when wet, she's just been performing perfectly with the grace of the Almighty.

I've another subject that I want to discuss, but will write it in the new topic soon in regards to better reinforcing the leaf springs, that I've already broken twice despite of using heavy duty Monroe shocks

Regards
Shermohamed

Agteros · Post by **Agteros** » Sat Dec 15, 2018 1:21 pm

I have a theory why mine hesitates sometimes. I will test this but I think it will take time to confirm.

My theory. When the tank gets emptier I have noticed a "swoosh" sound when I open the petrol cap to fill the tank. Obviously the pressure inside the tank at this moment is lower than atmospheric pressure and I wonder if this can lead to fuel starvation as the tank level gets lower and lower causing the hesitation?

As I say I am speculating but I have not noticed this hesitation with full tanks.

Stallion · Post by **Stallion** » Sat Dec 15, 2018 2:05 pm

Afternoon Agteros,

I had opened up the Fuel Tank Cap to check the breather valve in the cap, and checked out to be functioning perfect. I had this in my troubleshooting list and that wasn't or isn't the problem in my Stallion.

She used to hesitate at a perticular time when I used to fill her full, and that made me open the cap, bring the fuel tank down, inspection of all fuel lines, fueling pump, but that wasn't or isn't the problem. I also got the Carburetor checked, wiring checked, replaced old or damaged wires where I found them, replaced the distributor, but no luck so far.

As mentioned, she'll hesitate at various times making you think that a particular item maybe faulty, but then I'd noticed that the hesitation pattern varies all the time and it's been quite a good period of time mine hasn't hesitated. It's like you forget that she has a hesitation problem, then out of the blues she will for a short interval and come back to normal.

So far I've ruled she's perfect by the grace of the Almighty, only that she coughs during her galloping at times, she's my first wife

If you find anything, let me know. I may have skipped something. You can go through my list that I've done my communications with Mud Dog.

Regards
Shermohamed

Tim86 · Post by **Tim86** » Wed Jun 21, 2023 8:43 am

On the subject of ignition, what are the recommended HT lead brands - NGK, BougiCord etc.? Toyota's price is crazy.
I have proper continuous misfire up to 2300 rpm, after that all good (22R Brospeed). Most often occurs when moist/raining. Have replaced the correct NGK sparkys so far.

Post by **Family_Dog** » Wed Jun 21, 2023 8:11 pm

I replaced my 2700 S/C with Bougicord some years back, purchased from Midas.

-F_D

Thabogrobler · Post by **Thabogrobler** » Sun Jun 25, 2023 8:49 pm

Tim86 wrote: ↑Wed Jun 21, 2023 8:43 am On the subject of ignition, what are the recommended HT lead brands - NGK, BougiCord etc.? Toyota's price is crazy.
I have proper continuous misfire up to 2300 rpm, after that all good (22R Brospeed). Most often occurs when moist/raining. Have replaced the correct NGK sparkys so far.

There is a guy in Cape Town that makes custom plug leads - way better quality that what you can buy over the counter.

My Bantam was not happy and the bought plug lead connectors was just pulling of. I became VERY gatvol and ordered a set from Darryl and has been smiling since(after I got over the initial butt hurt of the price, but WELL worth it!)

Darryl - 073 897 4488 (whatsapp)
You can look for 'The plugleads guy' on facebook.