Captain Awesome's 4y EFI Conversion

[witmamba]

"Hans, polarity doesn't make a difference... any way will do!"

B's advice

[SideKick]

@ R330.00 delivery for that little package I don't think I'll be sending it back. We have an account @ DHL and they rob me like that?

But thanks anyway Stephan

I just spoke the the head of our companies' logistics department. Apparantly PCG is A LOT cheaper than DHL . . . Maybe worth taking a look at . . .

[Family_Dog]

For future reference, use Speed Services overnight delivery, counter to counter. R62.00 if the weight is no more than 1Kg.


-F_D

[Willied]

Sidekick, did you make a decision on the ECU you will be using?

What advantages does the dual pickup have over the single pickup?

[SideKick]

Sidekick, did you make a decision on the ECU you will be using?

What advantages does the dual pickup have over the single pickup?

Hey hey

From reading all over this forum and every EFI thread I could find, I decided to go with the Dictator ECU. ANyone that thinks I should go with something else, feel free to post and why.

And the advantages of the dual pickup over the single? I don't know if there's any advantages. Again, someone more knowledgeable than me can comment here. But as I understand it the dual pickup is less troublesome . . .

[Mr_B]

Sidekick, did you make a decision on the ECU you will be using?

What advantages does the dual pickup have over the single pickup?

First of all the 4Y vacuum advance electronic distributor(single pickup) won't work for EFi. Simply because it has timing control via manifold vacuum and a centifugal weights mechanism. In this distributor the mag pickup is attached to a rotating plate, this rotating plate changes the timing by moving the pickup in relation to the trigger wheel! In a fuel injection compatible dissi the mag pickup is fixed in position, it cannot move! The ECU controls the timing itself! Some guys has tried welding the rotating plate to the base, but it doesn't work cause the dissi base is alu and the plate is nickel plated metal. It's just not worth the hassle! Note that it is possible to do fuelling-only EFi, where the timing is left up to the vac advance dissi, but EFi's advantage is that the fuelling and timing combination can be controlled per load point very accurately. Fuel-only EFi really isn't worth the time and labour! If you want the really benefits you must let the ECU control timing and fuel!

Then for clarity sake, there are OEM Toyota distributors that can be found at the engine importer, both are dual pickup. Only one of them really works 100%, the other can be made to work, but I've had varying results with it and the mods to attempt to make it work are a pain!

Below is a pic the correct distributor, mag pickups are at the same level, at 90deg to each other, trigger by the same 4 tooth trigger wheel. Note that the top trigger wheel is not used:

Then the much less desirable one is this one, 2 mag pickups, one on top pulsed by a 4 tooth trigger wheel, the other at the bottom pulsed by a 24 tooth trigger wheel(pic below depicts the modified trigger wheel). The problems with this one are, you need to remove the bottom trigger wheel and grind down all by 4 teeth(not easy to remove, but easy to damage the trigger wheel); when re-installing it you need to align the top and botton trigger wheel perfectly else you will have problems with misfiring at high engine rpm, say 4000rpm+; the pickups need to be wired in parrellel to double up the signal, if you get it wrong you'll half the signal strength; the shaft runs on bushes, which once worn cannot be replaced(the dissi above has a replacable bearing on the shaft); we've had issues get the trigger angle right with this one.

So honestly don't even bother with the bottom one! The top ones advantages are:
- Pickups are perfectly aligned,
- Minimal mods are needed, just give it a good clean, replace the shaft bearing and fit the mag adapter+housing
- No shaft bushes, has replaceable shaft bearing
- Dual pickups double the signal/pulse voltage, this means the ECU can detect the pulse at lower RPM, this equates to easier starting with a cold engine or flat battery. The lower the crank RPM to lower the signal voltage, and vice versa!

Hope this is clear enough! Any questions?

[SideKick]

Sidekick, did you make a decision on the ECU you will be using?

Hey

Again, anyone is free to correct me if I'm wrong, but here is one of the reasons why I decided to go Dictator. And that is the ICV.

First, the ICV is optional apparantly. But what it can do when connected to an ECU is make it a lot easies to do rock crawling as you can then pretty much idle over anything and everything as the ICV and ECU will control the valve so that you don't stall. The Gotech can't connect up an ICV. The Dictator can. (As far as I know).

But there is some issue apparantly going down a steep decline where you need a cut off switch for the ICV . . .

Can anyone confirm what I said or correct me?

[ThysdJ]

But there is some issue apparantly going down a steep decline where you need a cut off switch for the ICV . .

personally, I wont trust that thing on a decline... but that's just me. I dont want to struggle to stall the vehicle on a downhill if I feel it is necessary to stabilise the vehicle. Hilux brakes are notoriously crappy as it is. Struggling to kill the engine, with Hilux brakes, against the ICV trying to keep the motor from stalling, while going down a hill is not a good situation in my book. Classic case of "conflict of interest"...

Maybe I am just a bang-gat...

[Mr_B]

Once correctly setup the ICV will allow low speed crawling, but remember it's effectiveness is limited by the engines torque at that RPM(say 700). So don't expect to crawl up a rocky incline without giving any petrol! The ICV's other job is to keep your idle speed stable no matter what the engine load, like when the aircon is going full tilt, brights are on or the steering is at full lock. These usually make the engine want to stall at idle!

All the latest ECU's can control a ICV(of differing types)! The latest generation of aftermarket ECU's are all very good and extremely reliable! There's a few reasons the majority of the guys use a Dicktator STD... it's cheap when compared to other big brands, it has all the functionality needed to accuratelyt control a standard 4 cylinder engine and there's alot of guys on the forum that can give advice on tuning and trouble shooting. Mr Turbo, IMHO, is a piece of junk. GoTech's latest generation ECU's are very good, but have alot of feature that you'll never use when EFi'ing a 4Y! Same thing with Spitronics, the Titan box is awesome, works really well on Lexus V8's, I really like the tuning software, but it's overkill for a 4Y!

[Mr_B]

But there is some issue apparantly going down a steep decline where you need a cut off switch for the ICV . .

personally, I wont trust that thing on a decline... but that's just me. I dont want to struggle to stall the vehicle on a downhill if I feel it is necessary to stabilise the vehicle. Hilux brakes are notoriously crappy as it is. Struggling to kill the engine, with Hilux brakes, against the ICV trying to keep the motor from stalling, while going down a hill is not a good situation in my book. Classic case of "conflict of interest"...

Maybe I am just a bang-gat...

Thys you're 100% correct! Towards the end of my stint with Bolt I used to switch off the ICV most of the time when offroad! But, what most guys don't know is that older EFi engine like the 7M etc. have vacuum based idle up! The big difference is that "vacuum idle up" was nowhere near as aggressive as the ICV's!

[SideKick]

But there is some issue apparantly going down a steep decline where you need a cut off switch for the ICV . .

personally, I wont trust that thing on a decline... but that's just me. I dont want to struggle to stall the vehicle on a downhill if I feel it is necessary to stabilise the vehicle. Hilux brakes are notoriously crappy as it is. Struggling to kill the engine, with Hilux brakes, against the ICV trying to keep the motor from stalling, while going down a hill is not a good situation in my book. Classic case of "conflict of interest"...

Maybe I am just a bang-gat...

But a cut-off switch cutting the electricity to the ICV should fix this problem, right?

[ThysdJ]

But, what most guys don't know is that older EFi engine like the 7M etc. have vacuum based idle up! The big difference is that "vacuum idle up" was nowhere near as aggressive as the ICV's!

I was aware of that "thing", but could control it. It made Kaspaas lurch forward when I did stall-starts, and I needed to have a foot on the brake all the time.

But a cut-off switch cutting the electricity to the ICV should fix this problem, right?

Problem with switches is that you sometimes forget to switch them off. And once things start going wrong, you dont have enough hands to flick switches, hold the steering, stash your drink etc etc... Now if you could combine that switch with you L/R lever... that's another story!!

[SideKick]

Now if you could combine that switch with you L/R lever... that's another story!!

Nooooooo. Then it won't help with your rock crawling . . .

How about I keep if OFF by default and just turn it ON when I want to try climbing something as vieslik as this:

I already have to brospeed branch with the preheat thingy that should help with cold starting? I presume I can keep that when I change to EFI?

[ThysdJ]

Nooooooo. Then it won't help with your rock crawling . . .

What is wrong with your right foot? Broke it?

[Mr_B]

No... that hotbox goody has to go! With carb fed engines the idea was to warm up the air-fuel mix to get better atomisation of said mixture for cleaner combustion. Remember carb's main jets are not really that fine(when compared to a injection nozzle) and fuel is drawn through by intake manifold pressure, which is not that great! With EFi the fuel is fed through the injectors(tiny hole) under high pressure(2 bar+), which means the mixture is already well atomised for combustion! Another reason for the hotbox was to warm the intake manifold to prevent droplets of fuel condensing on the intake walls which in turn lead to pools of unburnt fuel in the manifold! With EFi, the cold the air the better, hence the cold air induction mod that most of the EFi guys do!

So again... the warmbox has to go!

[Mr_B]

Nooooooo. Then it won't help with your rock crawling . . .

What is wrong with your right foot? Broke it?

It's attending a wedding!

[Stubs]

were your hubs locked ??? and you should have kept going straight forward, why did you steer off to the left, maybe you were trying to switch off the ICU with the L/R lever...heheheh all sounds too complicated to me......dread to think when it all breaks down..what then...?? but goodluck with the project man !!

[SideKick]

Nooooooo. Then it won't help with your rock crawling . . .

What is wrong with your right foot? Broke it?

Looking at the above pic I posted. With all the hopping over those thick logs it's VERY difficult to keep revs and speed even. That's all I want. Help to keep my revs and speed even. Every time the Hilux hops over a 30cm thick log, my foot hops a little bit on the pedal and I either loose revs and momentum, or I spin for a split second and loose traction . . .

[SideKick]

No... that hotbox goody has to go! With carb fed engines the idea was to warm up the air-fuel mix to get better atomisation of said mixture for cleaner combustion. Remember carb's main jets are not really that fine(when compared to a injection nozzle) and fuel is drawn through by intake manifold pressure, which is not that great! With EFi the fuel is fed through the injectors(tiny hole) under high pressure(2 bar+), which means the mixture is already well atomised for combustion! Another reason for the hotbox was to warm the intake manifold to prevent droplets of fuel condensing on the intake walls which in turn lead to pools of unburnt fuel in the manifold! With EFi, the cold the air the better, hence the cold air induction mod that most of the EFi guys do!

So again... the warmbox has to go!

Do I keep the brospeed intake manifold and just disconnect the hotbox? Or do I replace the whole thing with a 3Y intake?

[SideKick]

were your hubs locked ??? and you should have kept going straight forward, why did you steer off to the left, maybe you were trying to switch off the ICU with the L/R lever...heheheh all sounds too complicated to me......dread to think when it all breaks down..what then...?? but goodluck with the project man !!

Those logs are at angles that's perfectly placed to push your front and rear wheels in opposite sideways directions . . . It's not a normal ladder where the steps are at 90 degrees.

[Mr_B]

No... that hotbox goody has to go! With carb fed engines the idea was to warm up the air-fuel mix to get better atomisation of said mixture for cleaner combustion. Remember carb's main jets are not really that fine(when compared to a injection nozzle) and fuel is drawn through by intake manifold pressure, which is not that great! With EFi the fuel is fed through the injectors(tiny hole) under high pressure(2 bar+), which means the mixture is already well atomised for combustion! Another reason for the hotbox was to warm the intake manifold to prevent droplets of fuel condensing on the intake walls which in turn lead to pools of unburnt fuel in the manifold! With EFi, the cold the air the better, hence the cold air induction mod that most of the EFi guys do!

So again... the warmbox has to go!

Do I keep the brospeed intake manifold and just disconnect the hotbox? Or do I replace the whole thing with a 3Y intake?

Remove the hotbox, keep the brospeed exhaust!

[Willied]

Hey Sidekick.. I was away for a bit but it seems everybody had a go at our questions.. and I have the right kit fitted (Dizzy and ECU).. I went with the Spitronics for one reason, I do not have to modify the dizzy to suite my needs.. The ECU has a built in detonator.. It does all the work.. Just don't pile stuff on it while it is not yet mounted to the dashboard, it get kind of hot.. :wth:

Here is a pic of my ICV, same one you where looking for.. Works great on the Spitronics..

[LouisZ]

On the ICV issue. Going down hill with it is not so bad, usuall down hill 4x4 apply, 1st gear low range, light foot on the brakes.

It all comes down to the setup on the Ecu that control the ICV, more sensitive you adjust it how stronger it becomes at low rpm, just to give you example, that pic of yours that the hilux stand crossover that uphill, if the ICV setup on the Ecu is done almost as aggressive as it can go the 4Y Efi will crawl that out at about 500rpm with you not even touching the fuel pedal. But if it is like this down hill will be fast.

Now, if you have time to play, take the Hilux out on a trip, laptop and all and set it while going up and downhill. There will be a point where you can do a uphill at about 700rpm, slight foot on the pedal. Then with this setting you also will do a downhill with 4x4 low in 1st gear with a slight to medium foot on the brake, no off switch for the ICV.

Ecu's, Dictator with a good Diagram is easy to do, also if your Dizzy setup is correct, usually take a bit more time. Splitronics like Willied & B says I think is easier with the dizzy setup with the Titan Box. The earlier boxes of Splitronics I driven was sluggish on the pull away, still better than the carb.

Mr. turbo is a easy way out, but with hassles, a variable controller that one have to set air mixture while you driving is almost like playing with a choke that do not work. Gotech more advanced, too many sensor here and there, rather use it on a nice race car.

The time and quality time spend on the Efi's conversion and setup will ensure your happiness with it. Then another. PAY ATTENTION TO THE WIRING. Make sure what you wire and earths is important!! CHARGE THE BATTERY 24 HOURS BEFORE YOU START.

[Mud Dog]

Looking at the above pic I posted. With all the hopping over those thick logs it's VERY difficult to keep revs and speed even. That's all I want. Help to keep my revs and speed even. Every time the Hilux hops over a 30cm thick log, my foot hops a little bit on the pedal and I either loose revs and momentum, or I spin for a split second and loose traction . . .

Wedge your right foot against the kick panel .... more deliberate control and no more 'kangaroo petrol' ...... otherwise you can always use the internal throttle control screw knoppie.

[CasKru]

My ICV setup works like a charm. It will try and maintain the idling at 950RPM when the accelerator is not depressed. So crawling up a smooth hill will easily be controlled by the ICV. When it's uneven terrain I assist with the accelerator pedal but only slightly. Downhill is a different matter. The ICV is not aggressive enough to bring the idling speed back to 950RPM thus causing it to want to run away on down hills.

I installed a switch to switch of the ICV when going down a steep embankment. So when I switch it the engine idle revs fall to about 700RPM barely enough to keep it running but for downhill you want as much compression braking as possible without staling. m2cw

[SideKick]

My ICV setup works like a charm. It will try and maintain the idling at 950RPM when the accelerator is not depressed. So crawling up a smooth hill will easily be controlled by the ICV. When it's uneven terrain I assist with the accelerator pedal but only slightly. Downhill is a different matter. The ICV is not aggressive enough to bring the idling speed back to 950RPM thus causing it to want to run away on down hills.

I installed a switch to switch of the ICV when going down a steep embankment. So when I switch it the engine idle revs fall to about 700RPM barely enough to keep it running but for downhill you want as much compression braking as possible without staling. m2cw

That setup is EXACTLY what I had im mind

[CasKru]

Knip die blou draad en sit die switch op hom :)

[Willied]

Sidekick, what is going on here.. what are you looking for or has the recession hit your build?

[SideKick]

has the recession hit your build?

Something like that :) Working on a budget and spreading the parts out over the next 3 months. Hopefully I can do the installation between 25th of April and the 1st of May . . .

Gonna start looking for the 3YE Fuel Injection Inlet Manifold, injectors, fuel rail, throttle body and fuel pressure regulator next week and maybe one or two more things

[Willied]

Something like that :) Working on a budget and spreading the parts out over the next 3 months. Hopefully I can do the installation between 25th of April and the 1st of May . . .

Never build over a holiday break.. it got me furious if I needed parts.. make a decent list and get everything and then some..

Gonna start looking for the 3YE Fuel Injection Inlet Manifold, injectors, fuel rail, throttle body and fuel pressure regulator next week and maybe one or two more things

Call MYM Spares in Pretoria West, they helped me over the phone and paid by EFT and had the parts picked up by a mate.. 012 327 2480

[SideKick]

The problem is the Hilux is my main form of trasportation including to work and back. I can't go without if for a couple of days to install the EFI

I took leave for that Wednesday, Thursday and Monday to have that 7 days off so will have to make a plan to do it then . . .

[LouisZ]

Kry eers al die parte, maak skoon en doen van die goed waar mens net hoef af te bout en en weer op. Soos Willie se, daar gaan 'n dinge wees wat jy teen 9 uur die aand. Ook wees reg vir bolts&nuts wat val waar jy dit nie kry of wat strip.

Dan bedrading, doen dit vroeg oggend, een fout is te veel.

[fredster]

Hi Stephan,

Die plek met die dissy's is SA Autoparts (pers gebou), en vir die ander manne wat dalk een daar gaan soek - presies waaar stephan gese het - moenie eens met die ander probeer praat nie - Vra vir die voorman met die grys baard - Hy ken sy storie - het sommer die ICV ook daar gekry vir R350, so die inkopie lys raak korter :)

[fredster]

Terwyl ek nou Stephan se thread hier hi-jack - Met daai dual pickup dissy - het ek nogsteeds die TP100 module nodig vir my dicktator setup of nie?

[SideKick]

Terwyl ek nou Stephan se thread hier hi-jack - Met daai dual pickup dissy - het ek nogsteeds die TP100 module nodig vir my dicktator setup of nie?

Daai ignitor en coil was ook volgende op my vrae lys . . .

Kom ons kyk maar wat sê die slim mense vir ons.

[Mr_B]

If you going with the Dicktator setup... yes you need an external ignitor(TP100). I believe the ignitor is built into the GoTech and Spitronics. The drawback with "built-in" is that if it gives hassles you got to send the whole EMU in for repairs. If it's external to the EMU, then you can just replace the faulty ignitor.

Dicktator make their own ignitor, but I don't think there's any really difference to the other(cheaper) options on the market.

Dicktators one just looks cool:

[SideKick]

If you going with the Dicktator setup... yes you need an external ignitor(TP100). I believe the ignitor is built into the GoTech and Spitronics. The drawback with "built-in" is that if it gives hassles you got to send the whole EMU in for repairs. If it's external to the EMU, then you can just replace the faulty ignitor.

Dicktator make their own ignitor, but I don't think there's any really difference to the other(cheaper) options on the market.

Dicktators one just looks cool:

That TP100 is the ignitor, isn't it?

What about the coil?

[Mr_B]

The coil is inside the distributor if you are using a Toyota 3YE dissi! The ignitor(TP100) fires/triggers the coil!

[fredster]

Ok,

So I have the following already:
3YE EFI intake manifold semi complete,
3YE Dual pickup statc dissy,
2.3 Kombi ICV,
Velociti fuel pump
Metal Fuel Filter unit

I believe I still need the following:
2nd Water Temp sensor,
Air Temp Sensor (picking this up tomorrow)
Dicktator unit + TP100 module,
Heat Shield to go between intake and Exhaust manifold,
Intake manifold gasket

Also I'm looking for a SFA Hilux 3y/4y Sump to replace the current fong kong 4y one (which already has a fat dent from the diff :) ), so if anybody can point me to one it will be extremely helpful.

Have I covered everything that I'll need to do the install on my chinese 4y? Or am I still missing some parts?

[The Legend]

Ok,

So I have the following already:
3YE EFI intake manifold semi complete,
3YE Dual pickup statc dissy,
2.3 Kombi ICV,
Velociti fuel pump
Metal Fuel Filter unit

I believe I still need the following:
2nd Water Temp sensor,
Air Temp Sensor (picking this up tomorrow)
Dicktator unit + TP100 module,
Heat Shield to go between intake and Exhaust manifold,
Intake manifold gasket

Also I'm looking for a SFA Hilux 3y/4y Sump to replace the current fong kong 4y one (which already has a fat dent from the diff :) ), so if anybody can point me to one it will be extremely helpful.

Have I covered everything that I'll need to do the install on my chinese 4y? Or am I still missing some parts?

Contact Louis at 4x4 megaworld Menlyn.May be he can help you with one.

[fredster]

Mr B? Comments on my list - Have I covered all or have I missed something, or is there something that I need to watch out for?

Thanks
Freddy

[LouisZ]

Dizzy setup is very important

[Mr_B]

Fredster, have you looked through the list on the thread: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=16112" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I think everything is there... when you say the intake mani is semi complete... what exactly is missing?

[fredster]

It's missing the rubbers between the fuel rail and the lower portion of the intake, as well as a few bolts. Have managed to find other spacers from a scrappy that I can mod to the required length.

I eventually found your article, and compared my kit list with yours and save for a few pipes and relays it looked complete. Then Louis helped me out by pointing out a few other possibly obvious components that I have overlooked.

So at the moment my kit list has been updated with the mag adaptor and a new throttle cable (std carb cable does not quite make the distance). I have also purchased the additional piping for the new fueler setup.

What I need to come up with is a solution around the fact that the velociti pump intake is about 18mm and the pipe into the tank will only be 8mm. So some form of reducer is required.

Other than that it is just the uncertainty of the entire job :)

[SideKick]

Hi Guy

So my EFI project is back in motion.

Anyone know where I can source a 3Y intake (with the needed bits)? I can't find anywhere

[SideKick]

Hey all

Like I said. Project EFI is back in motion.

What I got earlier this week:

Standard Dictator ECU
TP100 Ignitor
MAG Adaptor

I hope these are all correct!!!!

[SideKick]

Hey guys

What I also got all the way from JHB thanks to Dawie's help!

What I would like to know. Is there anything I can/should do to prepare this intake for installation?

The distributor I got is so full of oil/grease/dirt, I'm gonna wash it properly with soap.

But what do I do with the intake? I obviously want to get rid of that yellow paint . . .

[Mud Dog]

Cool Stefan! Grease and oils should be washed off with an engine cleaner before anything. Then you'll obviously have to strip it down ... the alu parts will brighten up with some elbow grease together with a stainless / brass wire brush, followed by a polishing wheel fitted to a variable speed drill. All the steel brackets and clips can be done the same way if the galvanising is still good, otherwise you can clean them up, treat any rust spots and spray-paint them or have them re-galvanised.

Good luck!

[The Legend]

Thats how it looks like when Louis Zanoli (4x4 megaworld) tackle it with his tools.

[fredster]

Hi Stefan,

I have a slightly cleaner plenum and bottom half with all the other bits and pieces. I bought a 2nd unit just to make sure I had all of what I needed (nothing succeeds like excess). Let me know if you are interested. I have just finished putting all the EFI bits on Skorro, so the rest is spares ...

Freddy

[zepplin]

And if you still need an ICV I have a rotary type unit from a VW that was on my 22R EFI before the 5VZ conversion - yours for R200.

[SideKick]

Hi Guys

I got all those parts already . . . .Thanks.

[SideKick]

So I FINALLY started the get this EFI installed.

Here are the first couple of pics:

BEFORE:

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First things first. I gave the engine its first wash ever:

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Washed

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Then I started stripping.

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[Stef]

Sitting here in the office and have got meetings comming out my my ears!

Also don't have tools, or the needed two point plug thingy, to connect it up to the batt now to test anyway . . .

You'll be hard pressed to find that plug, unless the harness is still there then just ut it out wit enough slack.

Got my ICV off a Golf II (not sure if 1800 or 2L), unfortunately no harness. I used those ferrules with the blue plastic coating that you buy at any hardware/midas store and reshaped one end with the crimper to fit sungly on the pins of the ICV.

I think MR B is correct, the 1800 ICV should also work, VW probably fitted the bigger one on the smaller engine as well. Mine has a 19mm ID & believe me, in the Dictator settings the home postion is towards the lower end of the range.

[SideKick]

Powerflow modified my branch a bit to allow for the new intake.

They did it free of charge Thanks a lot guys!!!!

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[SideKick]

My new 3YE intake.

Before:

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Stripped:

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Cleaned:

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OK. I know it's not as clean as it can be, but it's clean enough!

Took me hours of scrubbing to get them this clean

5H!T35t job EVER!!!

[SideKick]

Next up is the heat insulation for the branch and the gaskets for the throttle body.

When I picked up my Hilux from Powerflow, I spoke to Roddy quickly and he told me to go to masterparts regarding the gaskets.

Went there looking for the gasket material and the heat insulation. They couldn't help me with either, but told me to try Nesco engineering, or Midas. Said I should ask for Flexoid or Vellumoid for the gasket material.

Went to Midas and asked for Vellumoid, but they came back with a sheet of Flexoid. Somewhere along the line I was told to avoid Flexoid because it is made for oil resistance. That the paper does the opposite with petrol and soaks it up. (Later reading here http://www.vellumoid.com/sheet.html seems to prove other wise. It will work, but is an inferior product to Vellumoid. Also more reading on that site indicates that you actually want a specific type of Vellumoid. Velcar B-10. Not just any type of Vellumoid) Anyway, Midas, Autozone, all those places when I asked for Vellumoid, they try and give me Flexoid. When I got to Nesco Engineering, they told me I should use Perminite and that it will work better. But they only sell it in 1m x 1m sheets. Told me to try Goldco for smaller sheets.

They also told me to not use those heat insulation sheets, but rather the stuff they use for turbos that you wrap around the pipes. Told me to get it at SA Autoparts (Moags).

Goldco didn't have stock of the gasket material.

Went to Moags and got a 10m roll of Foil-Backed Fiberglass Heat Insulation that is normally used for turbos. Thats the smallest quantity the sell Cost me R300. I used just above 4m.

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Foil-Backed Fiberglass Heat Insulation

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Branch wrapped with Foil-Backed Fiberglass Heat Insulation and tied down with galvanised wire

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I wrapped the branch with the roll, foil on the inside, and tied the ends down with thin galvanised wire. Was told once the insulation is heated up properly the first time then it will stay in place.

Back to the drawing boards with the gasket material at that point. Started calling around looking for a place that can supply me. After many referrals I end up at a place called Gasket & Shim Industries in Montaque Gardens. Spoke to the sales lady there (Can't remember her name ) I told her what I need and she told me they could help me out. I took the throttle body with to tell her what I need and to show her what I need it for. Because of the small quantity I need and the big quantities they work with, she organised me two pieces of cut-offs for free Tesnit JMP 6000. This stuff is waaayyyyy overkill for what I actually need. Comparing it to Flexoid. Flexoid can handle pressure up to 40 bar and JPM 6000 can go up to 120 bar. Flexoid can handle temperatures up to 120 degrees and the JPM 6000 can handle up to 440 degrees. Like I said, overkill, but it was free

0.8mm thick, but the stuff is quite hard compared to Flexoid. Use a VERY sharp carpet knife to cut out the gaskets.

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JMP 6000

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My new gaskets

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Didn't even use a half of the one sheet I got for the gaskets.

I have 6m of heat insutating left. R150 for the next guys that want to install EFI. And he can get the gasket material for free

[Willied]

I had similar wrapping on my brospeed branch when running the carb to protect it from percolation.. I found that the wrap tends to draw moisture from the air like and exhaust would.. Had scales of rust on the branch within 6 months of use..

Something to look out for maybe as a cautionary note.

[dustbuster]

Stephan what happened with you EFI?